• Hi Guest!
    If you appreciate British Car Forum and our 25 years of supporting British car enthusiasts with technical and anicdotal information, collected from our thousands of great members, please support us with a low-cost subscription. You can become a supporting member for less than the dues of most car clubs.
    There are some perks with a member upgrade!
    **Upgrade Now**
    (PS: Subscribers don't see this gawd-aweful banner
Tips
Tips

Ideas needed for under dash radio mount, cup holders, glove box

Share this page

AS for a glove box...
i have my heater but decided i did not need the back seats on my BT7. i bought a couple stainless steel pots and put them in the holes for the back seats. then built a cover for them. the whole unit is held in by one screw and can come out pretty easily. ALthough i don't think i have ever taken it out. the back seats are wrapped up on a shelf. DSCN0387.jpgIMG_2392.jpg
 
Hi Richard,

Although I do not have a solution to offer, I would suggest identifying the radio/sound system you would really like to have in the car and then select a unit, with its components, that meet your requirements. This would then have the extent of your installation requirements.

A while back in 2008, I went though this selection and when completed, fabricated a new replacement console (original is on the shelf), side mid range speaker mounts with tweeters on each end of the dash, and an amplifier and base installed in the boot.

100_0268-1.jpg100_0270.jpg100_0369.jpg

Without your heater, you have quite a bit of real estate to create a sound system you can really enjoy while driving.

enjoy your Healey,
Ray(64BJ8P1)
 
Work in progress... gauge panel for new EFI build. The ECU is behind the upper portion of the gauge panel. Much to do... gauge panel removes with 2 screws, one on each side... gauge wiring will be plugged for easy removal. Heater remains in place. Besides gauges, has 2 DC power ports. It will all be black wrinkle finished to have a "factory" look. The package tray will have the Lin Rose VW cupholder option.:tennis:

4 AH Center console 3 21 18 S50 7090.jpg5 AH Center Console 3 21 18 S50 7085.jpg6 AH Center Console build 3 21 18 S50 7096.jpg
 
Last edited:
steveg said:
HP - Are the Stewart Warner AF and EG gauges switchable between senders for the front and rear headers?
Click to expand...

Steve, both the A/F (which is an Innovate gauge) and the EG gauge have their sensors reading from a center of an H pipe (see pic) so they read the blended readings from all 6 cylinders. On my last build I put separate bungs in both header groups (front 3 and back 3), and while it provides another level of detail during dyno tuning, I never saw an advantage in normal driving. So, this time I'm just presenting the driver with the blended readings. By the way, the Innovative gauge and Maximum Performance SW gauge didn't come with a bezel like the old style SW gauges so I had to get old style SW gauges and cut the bezel off it and adapt it to the newer gauges... sounds easy if you say it fast.:smile:

Completed Headers with junction section 2589 S50.jpgJunction with H bungs O2 and Temp 2591 S50.jpg

Cheers, Steve
 
steveg said:
Beautiful job on the pipes!

Whose headers are those?
Click to expand...

Steve, those are modified Kirk headers. The #1 pipe on the original Kirk's is a slip on pipe that goes around the motor mount. I recontoured #1 pipe to go on the other side of the motor mount and it is solid mounted to the collector. I also cut off the collector end which was 2 1/2" flange and replaced it with a 1 3/4" collector flange... which matches up better to the rest of the exhaust. Then the whole thing was ceramic coated inside and out to reduce temperatures.... supposed to reduce temps. by 175 degrees. I like the Kirks because they have 1 1/2" primaries... many you see have 1 5/8" or bigger primaries... I'm told by smarter people than me that on a street engine you need to keep the exhaust velocities up so a smaller primary is better. I suspect the exception is if you are racer with continuous high rpm then bigger might be better.

Steve
 
IMG_0456.JPG
steveg said:
Steve - what muffler are you using?
Click to expand...

Steve, I'm using a stock muffler, but I weld flanges on front and back so I can … relatively... easily remove it. My exhaust is 1 1/2"... so 1/4" larger than stock. I also reroute it... pic attached. The rerouting is to accommodate the Udo Putzke rear shock kit.

Steve
 

Attachments

  • IMG_0467.JPG
    IMG_0467.JPG
    100.9 KB · Views: 102
Steve, regarding EGT's .... don't know yet... haven't got it wired up yet. Steve
 
HP--

I love your work and will only comment that a separate EGT on each branch makes for a wonderful diagnostic tool.

I have a Westech twin-EGT gauge on my Elva Courier with a sensor in each 2->1 collector and if some misfire, etc. develops when running at WOT I can quickly identify whether or not the issue is common to all four cylinders (in which case I am looking at fuel supply before the carbs or the distributor or coil) or simply two cylinders in which case I am looking at the appropriate carb or ignition leads or plugs, etc. The Westech gauge is made for small aircraft and only comes in single or twin-needle configuration but perhaps there is an EGT that covers three sources or switches between them.
 
Steve--

Usually about 190-195, this on a 1600 cc MGA engine with race cam, etc. etc.
 
Sorry Steve. Without looking at the gauge's scale I cannot now tell you but when everything is firing 100% the needles are a bit above midway on the range which I think corresponds to around 1300-1400 degrees. I'll try to remember to check the face of the gauge tomorrow and post the answer.
 
EGT.jpgSteve--

Attached is a pic of the EGT gauge and for once my memory was correct. I look for about 1400 degrees on both needles when running at WOT and anything less than that on either needle is a sign to me that something is amiss.

Because of the confines of the engine compartment, etc. the pipes from cylinders 1 and 2 (or 3 and 4) do not merge until a point about 15-16" from the exhaust flange and because the recommendation is to mount the probes closer than that to the engine I had to settle for putting one probe in the pipe from cylinder #1 and the other in the pipe from cylinder #4. However this arrangement still tells me the general health of the whole engine as well as giving me a comparison,. if any, between cylinders 1 and 4 and thus the front and rear carburettors, etc. etc.

I suppose that the distance between the probe and an engine might have an effect on the EGT and so my numbers are not an absolute but simply a point of comparative reference,. BTW I have the gauge rotated 90 degrees and the top scale relates to the #1 cylinder and the bottom scale the #4 cylinder.
 
Last edited:
Michael Oritt said:
I suppose that the distance between the probe and an engine might have an effect on the EGT and so my numbers are not an absolute but simply a point of historical reference,. BTW I have the gauge rotated 90 degrees and the top scale relates to the #1 cylinder and the bottom scale the #4 cylinder.
Click to expand...

I'll be installing my probes in #1 & #6 for the same reason.

FWIW, my HF IR thermometer shows around 600 F 1" out from the head and 400 at the collector of my Kirk headers. Therefore am assuming 1200 actual at the head would read 800 at the collector - not enough temp to be useful and barely reading on the gauge.
 
Back
Top