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Healey 3000 MKII BT7 restomod Build Thread

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AHpc1.jpgcheck strap1.jpgfin bolts.jpgfin bump.jpg
Check strap parts baking, finished check strap, some cleaned up bolts and the refinished front buffers
 
Id like peoples thoughts on the following upgrades, keep in mind that im looking to add a bit of performance but most importantly, I'm looking to have the most reliable Healey possible.

Oil Cooler??
Fuel pump upgrade??
alternator conversion??
Starter upgrade??
Pos earth converstion??
Led Lights??
Coil upgrade??
Ignition upgrade??
Moss Harmonic Balancer??
 
Im glad to see you reusing and restoring the original parts . Yes they still have the Petina of used old parts but thats the character of a restored car . I hate it when people say come and look at my restored Healey and everything is brand spanking reprodution new . They didnt restore it they picked up the phone or got on the net ordered a "Healey in a box " and assembled it . THATS NOT RESTORATION in my mind . The only time I replace a part is if it is beyond repair or unsafe to do so . I will spend more money to restore and re use old parts before buying some reproduction junk .JMHO.
BTW Looks good and the Jule is the way to go thats the way Im doing my Tri-Carb . The superstructure is all done and in primer in the garage waiting .
Marty is great to deal with and lives up to his timeline promises . He told me six weeks and it was delivered right on time 6 weeks later as he promised . :eagerness::eagerness:
 
the chassis NEW option appear to be right- I have observed that all you pieces have heavy rusty corrosion,
so probably your original chassis are unreliable,
I suggest the Alternator option and the switch to Negative ground (positive Alternator cost more)
this allowed you to increase the engine cooling, with one Electric pushing fan- and a OIL cooler with thermostatic valve and spin oil filter modification
remember also the recore of the oldest radiator- your Water and Oil will be cold also in summer and in long range trip.
Pushing the MG TF of my friend with the LUCAS pump out of service, convinced me to turn to FACET pump (in series to a original LUCAS pump)
the original restored STARTER, works good for me- on my car is more easy to start it with the gearbox in NEUTRAL and not pushing the clutch
If car don't start at the first 20 seconds attempt (normally if aren't started for more than a week)a little bit of starter spray on the two SU help more than the insistent use of the battery, on our AH is easy push the starter button stay near the SU linkages- if you remember the gear in NEUTRAL position!
With the Alternator you can upgrade the Head lights - LED tail light can be only one option , you haven't problem on charge of battery and also the old regulator
are over passed
 
I'd suggest a new oil pump and the vane type rather than the geared one. This is because the pumps do wear, the oil pressure drops and the engines are rougher at freeway speeds. The engine is nicer higher revs with a perfect pump.
 
Most of the big ones are covered, but would replace anything with rubber e.g. wiring, damper, bushings, and so on. Just not worth taking the risk since your putting in the effort and time bringing such a cool car back...
 
andrea said:
I suggest the Alternator option and the switch to Negative ground (positive Alternator cost more)
this allowed you to increase the engine cooling
Click to expand...

I want to make the alternator and neg earth change. How do I change to neg earth and what needs to be redone? Gauges? Starter? Coil? etc.
 
EV2239 said:
I'd suggest a new oil pump and the vane type rather than the geared one. This is because the pumps do wear, the oil pressure drops and the engines are rougher at freeway speeds. The engine is nicer higher revs with a perfect pump.
Click to expand...

Which do you recommend? Does moss carry the upgrade?
 
kkaa said:
Most of the big ones are covered, but would replace anything with rubber e.g. wiring, damper, bushings, and so on. Just not worth taking the risk since your putting in the effort and time bringing such a cool car back...
Click to expand...

So even though my damper is in good shape and the rubber is good you recommend that i purchase a newer harmonic balancer? THey arent cheap so I want to make sure it is worth it.
 
I had some parts cleaned and zinc plated:

Valve Cover
Springs
Gas Tank Filler Tube
Shock mounts
Sway Bar (Nickel)
Exhaust manifolds
Rear brake backs
(Have much more to do) I then decided to powder coat a couple parts in addition to the plating... im not messing around!

Some good friends of mine own a plating shop so free plating and acid baths are coming in handy
Plated1.jpgplated2.jpgplatedfinal.jpgpc plated parts.jpgpc springs.jpg
 
To me, its proactive vs reactionary care, and if it goes bad how simple or expensive is the repair. I suppose its also if the intent is to keep or sell once complete. For me, its a car we are holding on too.

I purchased mine after thinking it through and recommendations from folks here. My way of processing the cost, is weighing a couple things.

1 - The original damper is not as good as a new balancer, engineering is far better now and indeed does a far better job of reducing "thrash" to an expensive engine.

2 - Rebuilding or sending out your original damper (required) is going to run you $100 at least. The new Pro Race damper online there as low as $350 or from moss $450.

So, were really weighing ~$250 or less, and the risk of my old one tearing the engine apart, even if rebuilt. Seems like cheap insurance.

Heres the thread that I used to make my decision....

https://www.britishcarforum.com/bcf/showthread.php?94163-Dampner-Replacement-In-or-Out

AH.MKII.Restomod said:
So even though my damper is in good shape and the rubber is good you recommend that i purchase a newer harmonic balancer? THey arent cheap so I want to make sure it is worth it.
Click to expand...
 
Last edited:
AH.MKII.Restomod said:
So even though my damper is in good shape and the rubber is good you recommend that i purchase a newer harmonic balancer? THey arent cheap so I want to make sure it is worth it.
Click to expand...
They can look fine, but I know from experience they can come apart and take your cooling system with it. They can be relaminated, but the new ones are much better.

Oil Cooler?? Yes
Fuel pump upgrade?? An electronic-switched SU is fine.
alternator conversion?? Yes
Starter upgrade?? Yes
Pos earth converstion?? Yes
Led Lights?? I haven't found any that are acceptable.
Coil upgrade?? Yes
Ignition upgrade?? Yes
 
John Turney said:
They can look fine, but I know from experience they can come apart and take your cooling system with it. They can be relaminated, but the new ones are much better.

Oil Cooler?? Yes
Fuel pump upgrade?? An electronic-switched SU is fine.
alternator conversion?? Yes
Starter upgrade?? Yes
Pos earth converstion?? Yes
Led Lights?? I haven't found any that are acceptable.
Coil upgrade?? Yes
Ignition upgrade?? Yes
Click to expand...


Which parts/brands do you recommend for these upgrades?
 
For your LED lights, try Classic Auto LEDs . Com .. I put them in my 60 BN7. My BN7 is Positive earth and a few phone calls to the inventor, assisted in my installation steps. He makes all types of British LEDs for both modes of "earth" ground. The instruction sheets included are very detailed.
 
Cool thread, Restomod. I love the reuse of old parts, doing what you can yourself and having the big stuff done by the pro's (frame). Good luck and success to you.
Chris...
 
stuntflyr said:
Cool thread, Restomod. I love the reuse of old parts, doing what you can yourself and having the big stuff done by the pro's (frame). Good luck and success to you.
Chris...
Click to expand...

Thanks Chris, I enjoy doing the work myself, and take pride in it as opposed to jsut paying someone to restore the car. Also I like to be a bit different and do my own thing hence the restomod.
 
AH.MKII.Restomod said:
Which parts/brands do you recommend for these upgrades?
Click to expand...
Oil Cooler: Mine is from Denis Welch, ACC124 & CACC1272. You will need the spin-on oil filter adapter from DW or Moss (635-840).

Fuel Pump: I have a SU, negative ground, Moss 377-160. They don't show that number on their website any more, but it is shaped like the 377-265 (square body). I didn't pay anything like that much for it ($109.45 in '92) so you may want to consider the BJ8 version as it has a higher flow rate.

Alternator Conversion: I used a Delco 7127M-3 wire (early '70s GM) and welded up a new side cover to fit. I used the original adjusting link and a slightly shorter belt.

Starter Upgrade: I got mine from British Parts Northwest.

Coil upgrade: I have a Lucas Sports coil, but I bought it in '92. I understand from the forum that they may now have problems, and a Bosch or Pertronix seems to be the consensus. I have bumblebee ignition wire and Champion RN9YC resistor plugs.

Ignition upgrade: I have the Crane XR-700, and it works fine. The Pertronix seems to be more popular because it doesn't show, but it wasn't available when I bought mine.
 
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