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Tips
Tips

Header & DGV swap underway

Lets do it the easy way guys.

It is 180 out, no question if you reverse the wires and it is ok.

Pull the Dizzy. Look down inside for the slot.

Use a long bolt to thread into the center of the gear thingee.

When you pull it out turn it 180 and put it back. It will need to go in to start one tooth counter clockwise than 180 so that it ends up 180 from the orginal slot you made note of. Write it down.

No TDC will be required if you note the position you have at present and turn it 180. Check with a flash light down the hole.

Be very careful and it might take a total of 15 min for the whole process.
 
Re: Header & DGV swap underway

Well, the 1500 distributor has an offset key on the bottom, so it can't be turned 180 degrees. I'll try to attach a picture.

Does that make all of this a moot point? Can I still be out, if I'm seeing TDC with my timing light?
 

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yes, of course, you pull it out and turn it over 180 degrees. The bottom end is a gear on the cam shaft is it not.
 
Makes sense to me!

Jack, you're suggesting that I flip the wires over & just try it? Or is there something in particular I should be able to see when sighting down the distributor hole?

The car's rolling around on the driveway, I'll probably pop the valve cover and see if it's set up aimed at #1, for starters!

Thanks for all the suggestions, I appreciate the help!!
 
I can tell you for sure that a 1500 dizzy can be put in 180 out inspite of the offset key. /bcforum/images/%%GRAEMLIN_URL%%/blush.gif However, before you do anything, it makes sense to check the state of your timing by finding TDC for #1. If you find that your timing is 180 out, the source of the problem can either be the gear, the dizzy, or the order of the plug wires on the cap. If you have not taken the dizzy drive gear out, it is unlikely that is the source of your problem.

At this stage of the game, it makes sense to trouble shoot rather then jump into fixing things that may not be broken. That will only compound your problems.
 
Re: Header & DGV swap underway

#$%^#%&*

I can't figure the timing out...

Pulled the valve cover, and rolled the car until the mark on the crank read about 8-10 BTDC, at which point the #1 cyl intake (2nd valve from front) had finished closing.

Opened the distrib cap; rotor was just before 12 o'clock as viewed from the fender side, or 9 o'clock as viewed from the front of the car.

So, set the #1 wire facing same direction as rotor (a little difficult to judge, since contact edge of rotor is quite wide & curved) and set wires as 1,3,4,2 CCW.

Cranked it over and... can't see the mark at all in the timing light, although light fires. Gone, foosh. What in the name of Sam Hill...

Giving up for the night. Suggestions welcomed.
 
Plug the big wire from the coil straight onto one of the plugs (any one), bypassing the distributer. Try to start it. If it starts and chugs over pretty slowly then you know that it has good spark and just a distribution issue which can be resolved. If it won't chug over then you know.
Bill
 
That's a bit different than mine. Don't think it really means anything, but my dizzy hits #1 around 7 o'clock viewed from fender.

Did you static time it at 10 BTDC? Pull the #1 plug and set your timing mark at 10 BTDC again. With the ignition on, turn the dizzy until you get a spark at your plug.
 
crude way I used to get a good idea where tdc is.

Pull the plugs (As to make it easier to turn by hand and used a piece of mallable wire. Like a hanger or single copper. Insert a curved piece through the plug hole and gently turn over motor by hand until wire it pushed as far out of the cyl. as it will go. Sounds if both valves are closed, your already real close.
 
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