• Hi Guest!
    You can help ensure that British Car Forum (BCF) continues to provide a great place to engage in the British car hobby! If you find BCF a beneficial community, please consider supporting our efforts with a subscription.
    There are some perks with a member upgrade!
    **Upgrade Now**
    (PS: Subscribers don't see this gawd-aweful banner
Tips
Tips

Fuel Sending Unit Float

Share this page

B

BJones

Senior Member
Offline
Does anyone know if I can purchase and install only the float on my 71 TR6 fuel sending unit? My fuel gauge reads "E", and if I use a metal coat hanger to lift the float inside the gas tank the gauge will move. I am guessing that the float has a crack or a hole in it. The PO told me it used to work just after the rebuild, then shortly there after it started to slowly sink. We both guessed the float had a small crack he did not notice when putting it back together. I would like to avoid spending $50 on a new Unit from Moss if I can. I would also like to avoid having to take the car apart twice if I can. Any help is appreciated.

Thanks,
Brent
 
Just remove the float that's on there, and stuff a cork on the end of the arm. /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/jester.gif

Seriously, if the float's cracked, you should be able to empty it out and epoxy it shut. The big problem is, can you get the sending unit out without removing the tank?
 
For what it is worth, the PO says I just have to remove the panel in the trunk and there are 2 bolts that hold the top of tank in place. After I remove those 2 bolts the tank should rock back and I can easily remove the entire sending unit. The cork is a good idea. I will probably try to do the epoxy first. I thought about that, but thought the fuel might eat away the epoxy and I would be in the same situation. I guess I just have to find the right type of epoxy... (duh) Thanks for the help.
 
Don't use any old epoxy. I would go get some of the gas tank repair epoxy from the auto parts places. It comes as a putty almost and you mix the two parts together like epoxy. I have used that stuff to repair tank leaks (not in a Triumph), as a stop gap measure, while gas was flowing out the crack. It worked fine and from what I hear is still holding up 6 years later.
 
[ QUOTE ]
For what it is worth, the PO says I just have to remove the panel in the trunk and there are 2 bolts that hold the top of tank in place. After I remove those 2 bolts the tank should rock back and I can easily remove the entire sending unit.

[/ QUOTE ]

There is a little more to it than that. First off, the tank is held in place by four bolts, 2 top and 2 bottom. Not only that but there is the little matter of the filler hose which will have to be removed, including the filler cap. Then you have the bottom of the tank that has a rigid hose exiting down through a hole in the body to a short flexible rubber hose and on to the rest of the rigid fuel line. None of this stuff is going to allow you to "just tip the tank" without ripping something apart. Removing the whole tank is not that tough, just make sure it is almost completely drained first. Either use up most of the fuel and/or undo the flexible rubber hose and drain safely into a gas can. There really is no long term way to repair the float. The original float will be so old that it isn't worth repairing and the aftermarket floats aren't available without the whole unit. Pull the tank and just put in a new sending unit. Not really that expensive.



Bill
 
I haven't seen a TR6 float before so I don't now if the following could be made to work, but....

On the Healey forum of this board a crossreference was posted that used a Ford float. Sorry if this link is too long to work. If it fails, use the search feature set back to one year using the keyword "float". This thread ran in July in the Healey forum.
https://www.britishcarforum.com/ubbthread...true#Post230300

Regarding epoxy, though I hate to say it, you can use JB Weld. Really. I wouldn't have tried or believed this myself, but I was advised to use JB Weld to modify a late model Solex float for use in a an early VW carb. The source was an engine builder who I trust. It worked... just like he said it would.
 
Awe shucks, I guess I will have to go for a long drive to burn off some of the fuel... I will keep you all posted. I will let you know what I decide to do. I might have to get in there and see how bad the float looks. Thanks for all the help.

Brent
 
I know it has been a while since this was discussed, but I thought I would pass on my findings. My float was cracked and sunk. I took it out and headed over to Motorhead while on my lunch break. They had a used replacement for only $5. The guy behind the counter also told me it is the exact same one they have for MG's. The only difference is you can buy just the float for the MG from Moss for $14.95, they don't sell the TR6 float by itself. He pulled two new fuel sending units off the shelf to compare (one TR6 one MG) and the floats were identical. I also bought a new cork seal for $2. I will hopefully have a working Fuel guage this weekend. /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/thumbsup.gif
 
Hey Brent,
Thanks for doing all that research for the rest of the forumites. Little things like that save the rest of us bucks and aggravation. Keep it up.


Bill
 
Glad to help. I have already gained an immeasurable amount of help and info from everyone here. I just figured I would try and do my part.
 
They don't sell replacement floats for Minis either. Could you measure the float you bought (or the cracked one) and tell me the OD, length, and the diameter of the gland where it clips onto the float arm? Thanks.
 
Doug, Sorry I didnt see this sooner, I just looked back up the post as I did the exchange on the float last night. Here are the dimensions and a picture that will hopefully help you. L= 2 1/8" OD= 4" and the OD where the float attaches to the gland is just a hair smaller than 4". It kind of looks similar to the head of a coat hanger. It just clips into place on the left end of the float in the picture. I think if you look at the picture it will all make sense. Let me know if you need any further help. /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/cheers.gif
 

Attachments

  • 271004-Float.JPG
    271004-Float.JPG
    33.1 KB · Views: 93
[ QUOTE ]
... Here are the dimensions and a picture that will hopefully help you. L= 2 1/8" OD= 4" ...

[/ QUOTE ]

Looking at the attachment, if the length is 2 1/8", I can't see how the OD (Outside Diameter) can be 4". Are you sure you don't mean that CIRCUMFERENCE is 4"??
 
Good catch Art. You are right. The OD is 1 3/16".
 
Thanks Brent. I'm trying to come up with alternate floats for sending units used in cars like my Mini and GT6. This float seems to be a little bit longer than that used on the Mini but basically the same dimensions as that used on a friend's Triumph 2000. It also sounds very close in size to the brass Ford floats posted a while back in the Healey Forum on this board. Perhaps Smiths standardized on a common plastic float size in the mid-1960s. That would be great news as both your float and the Ford one might be replacements for our old sinkers. As you pointed out, these replacements are a lot less expensive than a new sending unit.
Thanks again!
 
Back
Top