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Defective Part Notice:

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Tinster

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Moss Motors informed me they have taken all their TR fuel pumps off the shelves due to a product failure. Moss
has no replacement pumps available but will account credit
all pumps returned to them.

The defective pump puts out a pressure of 8 psi and is
reported to produce carb flooding as a result.

The fuel pump I installed in Crypty is the defective moss pump.

If you have one of these pumps or have installed one, send itback to Moss for a store credit. Better than nothing.

The fuel pump shown in TRF catalogue looks identical to the defective Moss unit. Perhaps the same supplier?

So the Crypt Car now has no functional fuel pump.

badpump.jpg
 
Umm, Dale: is the spacing on the diaphragm screws the same on both?

...I would never advocate a swindle, but mebbe you could rebuild the old pump with just swapping the membrane... then bury the "new" pump inna sand. /bcforum/images/%%GRAEMLIN_URL%%/devilgrin.gif
 
DR- DPO had some "other" pump jerry rigged into
the car. I tossed that pump the same day it failed.

I did ask Moss if there was any method to reduce the
8 psi but they knew of none.

Yet another statement about the sad shape of replacement
parts we are forced to purchase for these cars.

I seem to have a gordon's knot here.

d.
 
You've tried NAPA?
 
OK, this is progress of sorts.
Take a look at this: Facet electric fuel pump. It puts out the correct pressure and sufficient flow for the TR6.

I think you can get them at NAPA or other local dealers also. One advantage of the electric pump is that you can hook in a switch which makes it a tiny bit more difficult to steal.


https://www.pegasusautoracing.com/productdetails.asp?RecId=83

You can cover the hole in the engine block with a plate, the cover for a small bock chevy fits I think??
 
Y took th' words right outta. And I think NAPA also sells that blanking plate.
 
Aftermarket fuel pumps having too high a pressure is a decades old problem. Be it Moss, TRF, Vicky Brit, etc.
This isn't a new problem.
 
2 reasons not to bother with the pressure regulator:
1. the regulator costs almost as much as the fuel pump so why bother????
2. that MOS fuel pump putting out high pressure is going to add extra wear on the camshaft/timing chain to develop that extra pressure.
 
The plot thickens. If it can happen to anyone, it will be Dale.
 
70herald said:
2 reasons not to bother with the pressure regulator:
1. the regulator costs almost as much as the fuel pump so why bother????
2. that MOS fuel pump putting out high pressure is going to add extra wear on the camshaft/timing chain to develop that extra pressure.
Click to expand...
Another reason :
3) Adds another point of failure. Some regulators have been known to fail and spray fuel all over the place. There was even a recall a few years back of units made by Purolator and sold under several different names (including NAPA), but I can't find the link at the moment.

If you want to go electric, I heartily recommend the little Facet. No diaphragm to leak and I've never seen one fail. But note that they do come in different pressure ratings, and you want the lowest one (model 40105). Best source I know of is Aircraft Spruce https://www.aircraftspruce.com/catalog/eppages/facetpumps.php
 
Tinster said:
I did ask Moss if there was any method to reduce the 8 psi but they knew of none.
Click to expand...

The pressure is set by a big spring. It would take some experimentation, but you should be able to reduce the pressure by trimming the spring down.
Unfortunately, you can't just cut the spring in half to cut the pressure in half.
 
I admire you for sticking in there with your "beloved"(?) automobile which continues to fail to procede! Have you considered a bicycle?! Ok, just kidding..... /bcforum/images/%%GRAEMLIN_URL%%/smile.gif That which doesn't kill you makes you stronger... Keep up the efforts....
 
Now Paul!

This seems to be a wide spread failure and only indirectly
can I blame it on DPO. Many other folks got burned on
this fuel pump failure.

Ture, I purchased the pump as a spare for when DPO's
pump failed on me. And it DID fail on me as predicted.The
defective spare got me back home and saved me the cost of
a very pricey $$ flat bed trailer tow.

Now the $750 I spent to correct the flooding rear carb
with custom crafted fuel lines, multi-filters, etc and
taking out the fuel tank and refurbishing it?

That would all seem to be a total waste of my time and cash.

d
 
Randall, those are excellent prices on the Facet pump. Thanks for the link.

BTW, the Purolator regulator is the one shown in the first of the two links in my previous post. That's the one I have been told to avoid. I have used them and I found their "scale" or selector dial to be very inaccurate.
 
Tinster said:
That would all seem to be a total waste of my time and cash.
Click to expand...
Not a total waste ... hopefully you learned some important lessons about owning and wrenching on old cars /bcforum/images/%%GRAEMLIN_URL%%/smile.gif

One of them being : Not all "improvements" are better /bcforum/images/%%GRAEMLIN_URL%%/wall.gif
 
TR3driver said:
70herald said:
If you want to go electric, I heartily recommend the little Facet. No diaphragm to leak and I've never seen one fail. But note that they do come in different pressure ratings, and you want the lowest one (model 40105). Best source I know of is Aircraft Spruce https://www.aircraftspruce.com/catalog/eppages/facetpumps.php
Click to expand...

I agree, I have had several transactions with this company and have been very satisfied with them.

Also, I just placed an order for this pump and they are being back ordered with an expected delivery of the third week of July. The price is about 1/3 that of another supplier.
Click to expand...
 
Have you ever considered moving to the states where AAA can tow you? I know it's a lot to move your family just so that you can get car parts and a cheap tow, but it is a Triumph!

Seriously, I know you have had a string of problems with the car. If anything that should be reassuring that the car is ok and it was just a defective part.
 
Randall:

I plead total ignorance of elec. fuel pumps.

Do they go inside the fuel tank?

or are they in-line pumps with gravity flow from
the fuel tank into the "in" port of the pump and then
the pump pushed to fuel along?

From the site you posted- which specific model number
would be purchased for Crypty.

Would this be a backup- parallel system to the manual
pump and hoses?
 
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