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Crypty's front hubs-advice needed

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wheel bearings are so easy to do there is no excuse not to complete the job yourself. a hammer and long screwdriver work just fine. the only issue is that new replacement bearings come with a felt seal that is a little too thick causing the difficulty mentioned in torquing the wheel nut without locking the wheel. simply trimming the new felt to match the old or reusing the old will work.
 
Moss has a Front Bearing Kit part # 525-220 for under $50 and has everything needed to do the job right. Not sure if TRF has a similar kit.
 
The kit I mentioned from TRF has Timken brand bearings; is currently on sale for $77.50; and does both front wheels.

From the catalog illustration, looks like it includes not only the bearings and seals, but also the dust cap, nut, special washer and cotter pin.

Moss 525-220 only does one wheel (so two kits required) and does not include the hardware and dust cap.
 
I ordered the complete set with the rebuilt hubs and new beefed axle stubs from TRF last month. Overkill for Dale's needs, but I'm stock piling parts for the winter chassis and brake replacement fest.
 
TR3driver said:
The kit I mentioned from TRF has Timken brand bearings; is currently on sale for $77.50; and does both front wheels.
Click to expand...

The TRF kit only does one wheel. There's a mistake on page 109 of the Glove Box Companion where it says only one required. On page 107 and elsewhere, it shows 2 kits required.
 
martin_burtt said:
The TRF kit only does one wheel. There's a mistake on page 109 of the Glove Box Companion where it says only one required. On page 107 and elsewhere, it shows 2 kits required.
Click to expand...
Oops, my bad. Guess that's why there was half of my order missing /bcforum/images/%%GRAEMLIN_URL%%/smile.gif
 
Dale
See your PM's no big deal to do this job for you. You're turning into a pro TR6 builder. Pretty soon they'll all be asking you for info on how to fix these cars.
Dave
 
I hate to tell ya'll the bad news. Timken bearings are probably made in China now.
 
Doesn't really bother me if they are. Timken has the quality control as well as the know-how. The Chinese only build junk when they can get away with it, I trust Timken to not let them get away with it.

Of course, I might be proven wrong, but I'm not going to condemn them just because of where their plant might be.

And since they just expanded their bearing plant in VA last year, chances are good that any bearings you buy here were made here.
 
TR71 --

BLARGH !!!!!!!!!!!!!!

Easy for you perhaps; what a freakin' mess!!

But not as difficult as I thought it would be.

fineMess.jpg


d
 
Good Lord, Dale!!
Is there anything left on the shelves?
BTW, I'm glad to see you have the caliper properly suspended and not dangling from the hose like Pedro would do.
Jeff
 
Well Jeff,

I started the passenger wheel at 5:00 AM and it
is now 4:00 PM, my time.

I just now got the passenger wheel hub cleaned
and painted. That's enough for me for one day.
Tomorrow I'll install the wheel bearings, hub,
brake and wheel with tire.

I figure maybe six hours tomorrow and I'll have one
side wrapped up. Now I clearly understand why the
local mechanics want $600. per wheel labor to install
the bearings. It's a LOT of messy, time consuming work.

I saved myself a small fortune doing it myself with the
help of this forum. I'll post some photos when I'm completed.

d
 
Dale, at $600 a pop, I'll do TR6 whel bearings all day long. I should be able to retire by the middle of AUgust, at that rate!
Jeff
 
Looks about right ... although I don't allow adjustable wrenches near my LBCs; and normally it's not necessary to remove the brake disc from the hub to do the bearings.

The labeled board is a nice touch; I generally just throw things in piles then have to figure out later what went where.

Is that a can of bug killer ?!?
 
TR3_

I use a work board so I can keep track of things.
Mostly I haven't a clue what I am doing or removing.
I also make small marks on the pieces so they line
up going back-- in the same orientation I took them off.

The aw is for the hydraulic jack valve.

Yeah, bug killer. The skeeters just love the engine bay
and the Wilton wool carpet for some reason. They eat my
elbows so I spray the buggers.

d
 
I don't think part of R&R a front wheel bearing is painting the hub,so we got to give Dale a little slack. It is over kill though.
Is that smudge on the fender or the lens?? /bcforum/images/%%GRAEMLIN_URL%%/cool.gif
 
Secret to cleaning bearings and loose hub parts...gasoline. I'm not supposed to say that.
 
Bill- Hush yer mouth, I know that trick!

DNK:

Now I ask you in all honesty.

If your wife looked like DPO Pedro's before photo,
wouldn't you suggest to her to clean up a little
before you went out to dinner? Maybe put on some makeup?

Besides- the top photo is Crypty; bottom is Amos.

The blodge on the car is a nasty DPO Pedro missing
paint area. Not a clue how to fix that one.

hubBefAfter.jpg
 
Tinster said:
Now I ask you in all honesty.

If your wife looked like DPO Pedro's before photo,
wouldn't you suggest to her to clean up a little
before you went out to dinner? Maybe put on some makeup?
Click to expand...

Dale does Wendy every read this forum??? A comment like that would have most of us sleeping in the dog house for quite a long time!

Seriously now when you powdered that hub, I hope you didn't powder the side where the disk brake gets mounted on right????? The disk brake needs to run perfectly true or you will have a nasty, dangerous pulsing in the brake. As it is, you really should check the brake disk for run out now that you separated it from the hub. Make sure both sides are clean (I guess I don't need to tell you that!) and all the bolts should be torqued to the same level to prevent warpage or the disk being out of plane.
Yisrael
 
Hey Yisrael-

Nope, only powder coated that ugly front face.

I have no idea what is "run out"

The bolt torque might be an issue. They were
rusted in-place and I had to soak them overnight
in Liquid wrench. Even then, it required a breaker
bar to get them out.

I was going to look in Bentley for a torque # to use.

My goodness this is a terribly long procedure. I
was very unrealistic with my six hours more today.
Maybe by end of tomorrow I'll have the wheel back on.
It appears it realistically takes about 20 hours to
change out wheel bearings.

I am taking a lunch break to go purchase new bolts.
Here is my current status:

packinGrease.jpg
 
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