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Crypty back on jack stands

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T

Tinster

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All good things must eventually come to an end.

The Crypt Car is back on jack stands! until further notice.

I just about rear ended another car yesterday when the brakes
failed to stop the Six. Hand brake of almost no value at all.
Master cylinder fluid level perfect, no leaks on the break cylinders.
I'm guessing I need a normal new brake pad adjustment. I have the TRF
adjustment tool- now how to use it??

I am hoping the Crypt Car will be off jackstands before New Years!!!

d
 
Dale, more information, please! Did the pedal sink helplessly to the floor? If so, could you "pump it up" at all? Did the handbrake seem to engage anything?

or

Was the pedal extremely hard?

or

????

I assume you're referring to the tool for rear brake adjustment? If so, the adjusters work in quarter-turn increments, clockwise to "tighten." Turn them clockwise until the wheel cannot turn, then back off by quarter-turn (or two) until the wheel turns easily (don't confuse brake drag with normal "drag" of the differential gears in their oil, etc.).
 
I wouldn't think brakes out of adjustment would suddenly act in that manner.
What exactly transpired: foot pressure, pedal response (hard, soft, height etc.)
How far did the vehicle travel once applied, speed, was there a little braking action?
There are other threads that address increasing the leverage action of the TR6 handbrake.
 
Andy- the pedal has becomming softer and softer but
pumping the pedal has no effect at all.

I know just about zero of auto mechanics but even
my dim brain thinks that after almost 2000 miles on the
new rear brake shoes, they need to be ajusted
and so does the brand new hand brake!

I might as well "fine tune" the new rear suspension while
I have the car on jack stands. I'll betcha the Armstrong
level shocks could us a quirt of fork oil!!

later gator,

d
 
As fast as you drive in your videos, maybe you wore the pads out?
 
Shoot the dam thing!
 
Russ Austin said:
Shoot the dam thing!
Click to expand...

<span style="color: #990000"> </span> Too much money out of pockets to
shoot!!

Gotta make do with it.

d

twentyb.jpg
 
Pads and shoes shouldn't be worn out after 2K miles. Soft pedal getting softer over time would suggest a brake fluid issue, no?

Hand brake effectiveness could be effected by leaking fluid maybe?
 
What condition are the front brake hoses in? They could be getting too weak and expanding slightly, causing a soft pedal, lack of stopping power.

Do the brakes simply need bled? Possibly.....

There is not adjustment in the front, so unless the pad thickness is way down from new, that should be fine.

The rear does less than 50% of the total braking of the car, so no way in the world would the shoes be worn out at 2,000 miles from normal wear and tear. Could they use adjustment? Possibly, but not likely after 2,000 miles unless they were not adjusted properly to begin with and I think that Dave installed them with Dale, so that's not likely.

What color is the brake fluid? Perfectly clear or dark and cloudy?

More information needed before diagnosis can be completed.
 
From what little additional information Dale has added, I'm beginning to wonder if there might be an "internal" leak in the master cylinder? It's about the only scenario I can think of at the moment that might not be temporarily overcome with pumping of the pedal?
 
Not a drop of brake fluid on the floor and the master
cylinder is always full. Dale, all by himself, installed
the new rear break shoes and springs. Dave installed the
break wheel cylinders and brake master cylinder.

I do not think this is a major Crypt Car issue but simply
a maintenenance issue of adjusting my "new rear breaks".

I have not looked at the front brakes---- since I replaced
the front suspension systems. All in good time!!!

d :crazyeyes:
 
Dale,
Just a quick bit of maintenance needed there I am sure! You may well find that you just need to adjust up the rear brakes. Otherwise if the pads/shoes may be contaminated or as has been suggested maybe a master cylinder problem.
 
First thing I would do is bleed or rebleed the brakes. I would not think the rear's need adjustment at 2K, but that is easy to do. Are the rubber brake hoses new?
 
shorn said:
First thing I would do is bleed or rebleed the brakes. I would not think the rear's need adjustment at 2K, but that is easy to do. Are the rubber brake hoses new?
Click to expand...

[color:#000099] [/<span style="font-size: 20pt">color] Yuup!! Everything is new!!</span>
 
How many clicks does your hand brake lever make before the rear wheels are locked ?
 
Andy I like your previous idea of the fluid bypassing the seals inside the cylinder. As far as the rear brakes go , they couldn't be worn out in that mileage unless they were made of cardboard. Adjustment may have had an effect on the HB effectiveness, but only if they were waaaay off from the get go. Bob
 
Adjust the rears but that wouldn't make a soft pedal. Master cylinder probably as outlined above.
Rears are only 20/30% of stopping power anyway.
I keep my TR3 rears slightly out of adjustment as I have the 11 inch discs in front and the 10" drums (known for locking up if used hard) and the car stops fine and fast.
 
Dale- Pull the pads and mic them for our knowledge.
 
prb51 said:
Adjust the rears but that wouldn't make a soft pedal.
Click to expand...
True, but it would make for a rather low pedal, albeit one that usually can be pumped up (semantics here, I know....)!
prb51 said:
Master cylinder probably as outlined above.
Click to expand...
I'm still liking that theory myself. Dale, you might just try putting a firm foot on the pedal for a minute or two and see if the pedal stays where it is, or if it slowly sinks. And let us know if there's a lot of travel before you feel anything. And especially if you feel the pedal start to sink and you're sure there are no external leaks, have someone watch in the master cylinder reservoir and see if they spot any bubbles.
prb51 said:
I keep my TR3 rears slightly out of adjustment as I have the 11 inch discs in front and the 10" drums (known for locking up if used hard) and the car stops fine and fast.
Click to expand...
Sounds like a clever way to effect "brake proportioning," but don't you end up with a bit of extra pedal travel?
 
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