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Crypt Car Set Back

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T

Tinster

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Yesterday afternoon the Crypt Car somehow ate the
Dan Masters wire harness Power Block. No power output
from 50% of the wire harness. This latest fiasco
represents a four month set-back in getting the
car back on the road.

The Car Crusher is looking better and better to me.

d
 
Don't give up the faith Dale.

If these beasts have been asleep for a long time, sometimes they don't want to wake up. You will get there, and it will be worth all the grief in the end.

Good Luck.

Matt
 
Hi Tinster:
Bummer about the set back, you'll "git er did" as they say down south. At the bottom of your post it states "dare to dream"
keep that in mind and always, always PMA.
Cheers, Tinkerman
 
It's only a machine. You'll figure it out. Take your time and go through the wiring one thing at a time until you find the source of the problem. Hang in there, you'll get it.
 
I feel your pain. It's amazing how much heartache can be squeezed into a single, small, one-ton automobile. I'm sure you'll get it, man. And that first drive will make you forget all the misery that came before, and replace it with pride for having overcome it! /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/thumbsup.gif
 
I can't even remember all the troubles I've had bringing my 6' back from the dead!

Maybe I just blocked them out, but when you get it on the road, all those memories seem to fade away.

Try to enjoy the time you have putting it all together, before you know it youll be looking for things to do on it besides driving it! /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/england.gif


aaa4-1.jpg
 
when you are down, the only way to go is up.....I have been down enough to know.

Hang in there and remember what I have seen posted many times on this fourm: "half the fun of owning an LBC is working on it"

Good luck,Pete
 
Dale,
Did the powerblock burn up, or did you blow a couple of fuses. If you lost a fuse or two that's OK. It means the design worked. Think back through the last few changes you made before the failure. You'll figure out what caused the problem.
You mentioned earlier about removing the dash support. Any chance you shorted out the wire to the cigarette lighter (if you have one)? If you are working in an area where there are any wires disconnect the battery to prevent accidents. Wal_mart sells a cheap battery cut off switch that works great. If you can't find one let me know. I'll send one out in tomorrows mail.
------------------
"The crusher was never an option"
Hannibal
 
Dale, we never refer to anything as "having been eaten" by the ever power hungry Lucas demons unless there is a terrible smell accompanied by copious amounts of black acrid smoke. Since you describe neither of the two, we will have to assume that you just popped a few breakers.

Chill out, have a cold one and isolate each circuit, one at at time, to see what caused the problem. It may be a pinched wire(s) or something simple that you can resolve rather quickly.
 
Hey Paul,

Nope, no smell or black clouds. Simply put, 50% of the new
wires no longer carry electric. No blown fuses, no blown
relays just 50% dead wires-not functioning. It seems
related to removal of the PO's recently dead distributor.

One block of fuses is hot, the other block of fuses
carries no electric. I am pouring over the Power Block
wiring diagram trying to figure out a way to splice
the hot wires into the dead wires.

But my knowledge of electricity is really too slim to
be attempting this splice task. With no current flowing,
my little light bulb circuit tester is useless.

I'm kinda log jammed on this one. Don't know enough to
know where to look for the problems.

The CRUSHER is stalking the Crypt Car pretty hard now.

d
 
Whoa, wait a minute!!! Don't start splicing any wires together. That's not the way it was designed to be setup and I'm sure that Dan or Mike can offer some advice that will be right on the money.

Dale, it's just like carpentry, of which are you very familiar. Measure many times before you cut once. Test circuits and connections and never splice into a pre-made harness that worked well before the power failure.
 
Andy: I agree with you on that. It might be something
simple like a broken connection. In order to splice
in the hot wires to the dead fuse block, I have to
dismantle the Power Block to begin with.

Hopefully when I dismantle the Power Block, I will
indeed find something very simple like a loose wire.

I am also thinking about maybe ordering 1/2 of a
new Power Block to overlay the side that is dead.

I must say this has been a quirky learning experience.

D
 
Dale, it went dead for a reason, which I doubt was the harness. Start double checking every connection from the distributor wiring to the alternator harness (did you knock the plug in back of the alternator loose while getting the stuck dizzy out?), to anything that may have moved while you were working on any area of the car.

More than likely, you will find the evil doer hiding in one of those areas.

BTW, did you call Dan or Mike to ask if this problem was common knowledge to them?
 
/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/iagree.gif

I downloaded a copy of the '69 TR6 power block diagrams for Advance auto's site. If you can tell us what circuits are dead, will should be able to figure out what's up.
 
Dale,

I wish I had some information to help you sort through all of the issues you have been facing. Unfortunately I too, am new to the world of all things Triumph. I basically just want to provide you a little moral support and let you know I read everyone of your posts (as well as all of the others /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/wink.gif) as a learning experience. Just looking at all the work you have done as well all the the work you have ahead of you, you are quickly becoming well versed in every aspect of your car. Keep your head up, once you get it all done I know you will be thrilled and have a real sense of accomplishment. I bet in the end you are providing info to all the rest of us just like all of the other senior members of this wonderful forum. Best of luck.
 
Thanks Art: Dan has never seen this happen before.
Mike thinks maybe it's the ignition switch.

Everything electric was functioning and the car
even started and ran briefly until the PO's distributor
crapped out. I removed the distributor and was installing
a few better bullet connections for the dash board lights.

I connected the battery and turned on the ignition key to
see if the lights still worked with my new bullets. Nothing
worked.

After probing circuits with my light bulb tester I found that none of the wires coming out of the 12:00 located
fuse box(green side) were live.

ALL the wires coming out of the 9:00 located fuse box (purple side) were live.

The Power Terminal itself is hot and the Power Relay box
is hot in the two top slots. Dead in the two bottom slots.
No blown fuses anywhere. Swapping out relay boxes has no effect. Green side stays dead.

The distributor is on the green side which makes me think the failure might be somehow related to me removing the distributor. Or a broken or loose wire in the Power Block.

Paul knows I am not afraid to take something apart to see
how it works or why it doesn't work.

Any and all help appreciated, I'm stumped on this one.

dale
 
Dale,

After reading your description of what's hot and what's not, I would also look toward the ignition switch, as that energizes the power relay on the circuits that are dead. Coming off the power terminal is a yellow wire that goes to the Bat side of the ignition switch. That should be hot all the time. If it is, proceed to the white/green wire, which should be hot when you turn on the ignition switch. That's the wire that energizes the power relay. If that is dead when you turn on the ignition, then the ignition switch is most likely at fault. You can jump the yellow wire to the white/green wire to see if it energizes the relay and powers the dead circuit up. Also, Dan's schematic shows an anti-theft cutout switch on the ground side of the power relay coil. Do you happen to have one of those wired in?? If so, is it in the open position??
 
Where are these bullet connectors located? Were you under the dash or working out in the open? I don't disagree with Art, but I'm wondering if you inadvertently pulled a connector off, either at the ignition switch or somewhere under the dash.

If Art's test don't show anything or even before doing them check the area where you worked to insure that no connections came loose. Pull them off and then push them on again to insure that they just don't "look" connected.

Removing the distributor should not have this affect on an entire wire harness. The distributor is not a switching mechanism for all of those power circuits of the car.
 
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