I just recently learned why the manual recommends placing the jack under the A arm (under the front coil spring). Typically, I lift the front with a piece of thick rubber industrial belting atop the jack's pan and a three or four-inch wide piece of wood between that and the frame. I do this on both sides, then add the jack stands. This, of course, allows the wheel spindles, etc., to hang, nicely crushing the rubber buffer rebound (Moss terminology for part 031-279). There is one of each on either side. I just did that, fortunately having ordered the two buffers required--one on either side--to replace the one's I damaged. And also, luckily, I ran across Steve G's neat technique for altering the buffers for installation. If you haven't done this, you will find that one of the two 7/16" bolts can be readily removed, but the second is basically captive unless you want to dismantle a the top A arm/shock. Steve suggests cutting out a segment of the hole on the captive bolt side, making it possible to slide that side onto the bolt without its removal. When the two bolts are snugged down, the buffer should stay in place. Another issue here is cutting away the buffer's sheet metal base plate at the captive bolt so the old one can be removed. I used a sharp chisel for that job. Once again Steve has anticipated what I didn't know. Also, Luke Skywalker says he uses a floor jack under the differential to lift the rear before installing jack stands, and I know I have seen it done, but is that a good idea? All of this tells us that working on Healeys can be challenging, and thank heaven for this Web site.