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Cibié lights and other fun electrical stuff

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Yup. You'll think those Tangos are parking lamps. /bcforum/images/%%GRAEMLIN_URL%%/devilgrin.gif
 
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Quote:] No reaction gets 'em the full monte, just as they're close enuff to get the full effect. [/QUOTE]

/bcforum/images/%%GRAEMLIN_URL%%/iagree.gif /bcforum/images/%%GRAEMLIN_URL%%/angel.gif
 
You really need to run a completely independent wiring system to have effective and dependable wiring for any auxiliary lights. I have Cibie Airports that I custom wired with very high quality wire, relays, and switches, running them directly off the battery.


It helps to have Dan Masters book.
 
I ran Cibie's back in the '70's,when there
was still some sense of courtesy.Now every
idiot who buys a car with driving lights has
to drive with them on all of the time.
When I get the Datsun "daily driver" going,
I'm thinking of getting a set of Super Oscars -
"Fight fire with Napalm!"

- Doug
 
/bcforum/images/%%GRAEMLIN_URL%%/laugh.gif
 
My Audi has true factory xenon headlights, not the add on blue aftermarket lights. When I turn them on, they initially pop to life then brighten after a few seconds. It's like driving in the daytime but have precise focused lens, really amazing from the cockpit.

I heard a complaint once that someone said they're dangerous because when this person sees them, they get distracted and stare directly at them, and is then blinded by the light. Hello - don't stare at my lights dude!

Same complaints when halogen first appeared on the market.
 
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Quote:] Now every idiot who buys a car with driving lights has to drive with them on all of the time.
[/QUOTE]

/bcforum/images/%%GRAEMLIN_URL%%/wall.gif

Very annoying....

And I don't know about the US, but inattentive people here do the same thing with rear fog lights; or use them if there's just a little mist....
 
DNK said:
Shannon,first thing,put those 55/60 in hiding and buy 55/100's
Click to expand...

I have 80/130's in my Cibies from Daniel Stern. They're awesome. I have the "citylights" version wired to my parking lights; I run them during the day.

I have them wired with dual Hella relays with a custom 12 gauge harness. Razor sharp beam cutoff and much better light output.

Dan Masters can bash Daniel Stern all he wants, but Stern knows his stuff where lighting is concerned.

(and if the issue they are fighting over is fuses on headlights, I have all 4 beams fused independantly on my MGB. I'd rather lose a beam or two and drive on parking or citylights than have an unfused harness fire under the dash).
 
"and if the issue they are fighting over is fuses on headlights, I have all 4 beams fused independantly on my MGB. I'd rather lose a beam or two and drive on parking or citylights than have an unfused harness fire under the dash)."

That is Dan's approach I believe

Just bought a 1 off relay for my Rastro Van from him and all are fused.
 
Scott_Hower said:
I have all 4 beams fused independantly on my MGB.
Click to expand...
In that case, how do you protect the wiring upstream of the switches ?
 
TR3driver said:
Scott_Hower said:
I have all 4 beams fused independantly on my MGB.
Click to expand...
In that case, how do you protect the wiring upstream of the switches ?
Click to expand...

The factory switchgear upstream no longer carries any current - only a couple of milliamps to trigger the relay coils. The relays do the heavy lifting; they are wired directly to the alternator.
 
Scott_Hower said:
The factory switchgear upstream no longer carries any current
Click to expand...
Unless of course there is a short in the factory wiring.<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Quote:]The relays do the heavy lifting; they are wired directly to the alternator.[/QUOTE]Meaning those wires are also not protected.

Not criticizing, just pointing out that those 4 fuses don't cover all the possibilities. You can still have an under-dash fire (as I learned the hard way a few weeks ago).
 
Scott has a similar setup to me. I still think its a better setup than stock.. I've heard horror stories of the oem switch melting because it wasn't strong enough to handle the amperage of the headlights that came with the car much less the Cibie's that I installed.

With my installation, I have a dedicated power lead directly from the battery leading to the relays, then the wires going to the lights are fused (4 of them, just like Scott). Mind you the stock headlights don't have any fuses (at least on my 1972). I suppose this brings to head the "no fuse vs fused" argument, but at least if I have a problem the result won't be a total meltdown... With my setup, the biggest concern is a short with my single power lead from the battery, consequently, I took great pains to keep it as isolated and as short as possible.

Time will tell, right?
 
LastDeadLast said:
Time will tell, right?
Click to expand...
As far as I'm concerned, it already did for me. Just the tiniest sharp edge in the steering column, but after 35 years it finally wore through the insulation into a big brown (always hot) wire. Glad I wasn't on the freeway at the time, because the cabin filled with smoke pretty quick. And this was on one of the very few Triumphs that came with 4 fuses for the headlights.

So, I've added a fuse for the wiring through the switches, and will definitely be using a fusible link in the power to the relays as well.
 
TR3driver said:
Scott_Hower said:
The factory switchgear upstream no longer carries any current
Click to expand...
Unless of course there is a short in the factory wiring.<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Quote:]The relays do the heavy lifting; they are wired directly to the alternator.
Click to expand...
Meaning those wires are also not protected.

Not criticizing, just pointing out that those 4 fuses don't cover all the possibilities. You can still have an under-dash fire (as I learned the hard way a few weeks ago). [/QUOTE]

Oh please. The headlight switch might carry a a few thousandths of an amp. Just enough to hold the relay coils closed.

And while the feeds from the alt are not fused into the relays, they are individually fused downstream of the relay; a dead short to any headlight lead will pop a fuse.

As far as all possibilities, I have a battery cutoff switch behind the passenger seat; the risk of fire is FAR less than what originally came from Abingdon/Canley.
 
Scott_Hower said:
Oh please. The headlight switch might carry a a few thousandths of an amp. Just enough to hold the relay coils closed.
Click to expand...
Right. Which has nothing to do with how much it will carry if there is a short between it and the relays. Or how much will flow if there is a short between it and the battery.<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Quote:]the risk of fire is FAR less than what originally came from Abingdon/Canley.[/QUOTE]A little less, no doubt. But the original switches actually act like fusible links to some extent, so I wouldn't call it FAR less.

What you've done is add fuses for the new wiring, but still nothing for that 30-35 year old wiring. Which do you think is more likely to fail ?
 
TR3driver said:
Scott_Hower said:
Oh please. The headlight switch might carry a a few thousandths of an amp. Just enough to hold the relay coils closed.
Click to expand...
Right. Which has nothing to do with how much it will carry if there is a short between it and the relays. Or how much will flow if there is a short between it and the battery.<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Quote:]the risk of fire is FAR less than what originally came from Abingdon/Canley.
Click to expand...
A little less, no doubt. But the original switches actually act like fusible links to some extent, so I wouldn't call it FAR less.

What you've done is add fuses for the new wiring, but still nothing for that 30-35 year old wiring. Which do you think is more likely to fail ?

[/QUOTE]

Ok, I'm done with this thread. You're obviously bitter and no amount of logic/common sense will change your mind. I'm sorry you melted your dash. Carry on.
 
TR3driver said:
Scott_Hower said:
Oh please. The headlight switch might carry a a few thousandths of an amp. Just enough to hold the relay coils closed.
Click to expand...
Right. Which has nothing to do with how much it will carry if there is a short between it and the relays. Or how much will flow if there is a short between it and the battery.<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Quote:]the risk of fire is FAR less than what originally came from Abingdon/Canley.
Click to expand...
A little less, no doubt. But the original switches actually act like fusible links to some extent, so I wouldn't call it FAR less.

What you've done is add fuses for the new wiring, but still nothing for that 30-35 year old wiring. Which do you think is more likely to fail ?

[/QUOTE]

/bcforum/images/%%GRAEMLIN_URL%%/savewave.gif
/bcforum/images/%%GRAEMLIN_URL%%/iagree.gif 100% You need to also protct the power feeds all along the string.---Fwiw---Keoke
 
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