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California Emissions + 1980 MKIV 1500

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UPDATE! UPDATE! READ ALL ABOUT IT!

Okay, I took it to some local British car guys who had a look at it. They said that it has a aftermarket alternator on it, a good one, but it was put on in a way that they said there's no longer a place to put the smog/air cleaner pump/thing and that it can't run off the pully it's suppose to, BUT... They said that they no longer make the smog/air pump thing so I "should" be able to get what's called an exemption for it. They said that if a part is no longer produced for a car, in California you can get an exemption for it. Not sure what that's all about, but they said if I couldn't they would need to weld a new bracket on to put the thing on and I'd be out another $200 bucks or so, so I'm not sure what to do about that :frown:

Opinions? Advice? Thank you folks.
 
I don't know...since SpitBits lists it.
Just saying to CARB "it is no longer available" may not be the wisest thing to say.

Item #: RKC3137
Our Price: $119.99
plus a $15 core charge, and the pulley, and the brackets, and the belt.

CARB may check, and you will then be in the un-enviable position of having lied to them, and it can only go downhill from there.

Get the parts from Scott, re-mount the alternator.
 
SpitBits Cat, NOT LEGAL FOR SALE IN CALIFORNIA (go figure....it's Federal Emissions)
Item #: TR3301
Our Price: $316.00

California unit:
Item #: TR83301
Our Price: Please call for price and availability

The BRACKETS for the pump aren't available from SpitBits, but I know up here they'd send you to a wrecking yard.
 
Nope, no exemption for parts that have been illegally removed. You have to show the referee the old part. And the car has to have previously been registered in CA, no exemption for cars from other states.

Besides, the exemption is only good for two years. After that, it's pass or be crushed.

Sounds like you'd best add an alternator to your list of needs. There is a Bosch unit from a Ford Fiesta that should fit with no other changes (and not block the smog pump mount), or it shouldn't be too hard to find an original.
 
It looks like I may have to end up selling the little car out of state...

I want to fix it up, I want to keep it but I just don't know if I can. Scott is super cool and willing to help me on a lot of the parts, but now with this alternator thing going on... The shop I took it to said even with a new alternator, for some reason it's going to need a new bracket welded on which they said would cost me around $300 to do. When all is said and done I just don't think I'd have the money to do all this work.

I knew when I got a spitfire I'd have to pop the hood from time to time and do work on it, buy parts here and there and work on it mechanically, I just didn't think I'd have to rebuild half the engine and come up with $1000+ all at once just to register it. I'm so sad right now and still unsure of what to do :frown:

If I decide to sell it out of state, what would be the best way to do so? What would be a fair price? The little guy is such a good car, runs so strong, in such good condition and has only 58k original miles at that. It's just that all these parts aren't California Friendly. I wish so bad right now I lived in another state. Any advice folks? :frown:

I thank you all again for your kindness and help through all of this.
 
I keep hearing about Engine Swaps to... Particularly things like BMW M10's, honda B16's and Volvo B230FT's. I know it'd probably cost more, but I wonder just how much one of those would cost with installation. Would it work with my transmission to is another question. It would sure make the car a lot more reliable and would be absolutely hilarious how quick it would make it. It would sure take out all these emissions worries though. Again, doubt I could afford it but if it was awesome enough I'd ponder some how saving up for it.
 
Gafirema said:
The shop I took it to said even with a new alternator, for some reason it's going to need a new bracket welded on which they said would cost me around $300 to do.
Click to expand...

That's crazy. All you need is the bracket for the smog pump. I would estimate that to be a $10 ($20 max) item - try putting out a "Want to Buy" post. They don't make them anymore but I'll bet most folks with Spits and Midgets have these items stashed away.

Like Randall says, a Bosch (13107 from a 1978 - 80 Fiesta) would fit or maybe you could borrow a Lucas alternator from your local club members.

Good luck whichever way you go.

PS. Just a thought, but because you love this car, I would join the local club and some time in the future organise a Technical Session at your place. You supply all the hamburgers and beer and have ALL the parts ready to install. This would also include all new reputable tune-up parts. I'm betting your Spit could be up and running in an afternoon
 
Gafirema said:
I keep hearing about Engine Swaps to... Particularly things like BMW M10's, honda B16's and Volvo B230FT's. I know it'd probably cost more...
Click to expand...
To be honest, you'd be looking at, minimum, transplanting pretty much an entire drivetrain. At the very least, it would be engine and gearbox; more than likely, it would also include a stronger differential, possibly some re-engineering of the rear suspension and definitely some brake upgrades. If you're good at engineering and fabricating...or writing checks, it's worth a try, but it's definitely not a quick or cheap solution to your dilemma!
 
https://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Triumph-S...sQ5fAccessories

or this:

https://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/...r_id=217395179180&ua=WXF?&itemid=200372360125

Is that the bracket I would need? Because supposedly as I said, the bracket for the smog pump is missing. I'm not even sure if it will fit in the way the alternator is. If you guys can, take another gander at where it goes in my engine pics.

Also, I found some better prices on used refurbished smog pumps online, for about $80.

But yeah, is that above the bracket I would need? I'll try to take some better engine pics of that area in just a bit and post them later on. Thanks for the replies you guys. Also @ Bigjones I'd hate to just join a club and immediately start asking for that much help. I doubt they'd be willing but even if they were I'd feel like a jerk :frown:
 
Gafirema said:
...I'd hate to just join a club and immediately start asking for that much help. I doubt they'd be willing but even if they were I'd feel like a jerk :frown:
Click to expand...
If my club is any indication, along with many, many other clubs I've encountered over the years, that's what clubs do: pitch in and help!
 
I have the alt bracket; it's attached to the (functional) air pump and it's all part of the deal.

I'll also throw in the bracket that mounts the cat to the bellhousing; try and find one of those anywhere. :smile:
 
Okay, just got back from meeting with the previous owner. I took some pictures of the spare parts he gave me and am going to post them up here. Tell me what I've got, what I need, what you guys think. Also, I took some pictures of the alternator area to see what you guys think of that.












 
I have to go for a bit, I'll be back later everyone!

Oh, one last thing before I step out. I've been told it's okay to drive the car with the very small leak coming from the clutch slave cylinder and the leak from the gasket. If I keep oil in it, is it safe? Also, is there a special reservoir to put a special kind of oil into a special place FOR the clutch slave cylinder? I've been told it's okay to drive it for the time being with the two small leaks as long as oil is kept in it. I'll be replacing them ASAP though should I keep the car.

Thank you folks.
 
Thats actually a pretty good start; you are missing:

Exhaust manifold
Cat
Heatshield
EGR plumbing
Asbestos carb spacers
Air filter hot air intake (aka cowbell)
Hot air intake tube
Bleed/gulp valve.

A whole bunch of little hoses. :smile:
 
Gafirema said:
I've been told it's okay to drive the car with the very small leak coming from the clutch slave cylinder and the leak from the gasket. If I keep oil in it, is it safe?
Click to expand...

Do you mean brake fluid? If the leak isn't too bad you can top it off, but it will only get worse so keep an eye on it.
 
tdskip said:
Gafirema said:
I've been told it's okay to drive the car with the very small leak coming from the clutch slave cylinder and the leak from the gasket. If I keep oil in it, is it safe?
Click to expand...

Do you mean brake fluid? If the leak isn't too bad you can top it off, but it will only get worse so keep an eye on it.
Click to expand...

Oh I'm sorry. I wasn't sure. Is that the brakes it controls? I thought it had to do with the transmission and that I needed to put transmission fluid into it since it's called the Clutch Slave Cylinder. I guess that doesn't mean it's actually to do with the transmission though?

Edit: Did you mean brake fluid is what you put into the reservoir, as in that's what it uses and not Transmission fluid? I researched and it looks like indeed it has to do with the transmission. It uses brake fluid though?

@ Scott, I'll be sending you a new PM.

But from the looks of it, do I have the smog pump? Do I have the bracket for it as well?
 
The more correct term for brake fluid would be "hydraulic fluid" which is used in the hydraulic system which consists of the brake and the clutch, which are operated by hydraulic (fluid) pressure rather than a straight mechanical connection when you press on the appropriate pedal.

There is such a thing as transmission fluid, but it goes in the transmission itself in cars with automatics.

The fillers for the brake and clutch fluid are in the enging compartment, the clutch master cylinder has the reservoir you fill to top up the clutch and deal with the leak it will be the smaller of the two.

Don't know if anyone has suggested it but get yourself a reprodution of the factory manual or a Haynes workshop manual if you are going to do a lot of work on it, or it least get a Moss Motors catalog, they are free for the asking at www.mossmotors.com the catalog has things you will probably need to buy, plus it has parts pictures and diagrams showing all the bits and telling you what they are.

As an aside, I once read they are called "hydraulics" because the original hydraulic brakes used water as the fluid "hydro", which probably was not a good long term solution to the hydraulic brake fluid question for obvious reasons, so they came up with other liquids to use in short order.
 
Well I'm afraid you don't use regular transmission fluid in these cars. The transmission/gearbox takes EP90.

Post a picture of where you put the transmission fluid and try and see what color the existing fluid is. The clutch master cylinder (which is connected to the slave) usually takes Castrol LMA (available through Moss Motors) unless the previous owner (give him a call) switched to silicone fluid.

Best give Moss Motors and Victoria British a call and ask for a (free!) catalog for the Triumph Spitfire. They have most useful exploded diagrams of the parts. They both have useful websites but the hard copy you can read in bed. Also, keep a lookout for a Haynes manual - you will need it if you work on the car.

Keep the faith!

Moss Motors

Victoria British

PS Sorry about the repetition - glemon beat me to it!
 
glemon said:
The more correct term for brake fluid would be "hydraulic fluid"
Click to expand...
Just for clarity, though, "hydraulic fluid" is quite a bit different than "brake fluid" (even though there are a very few cars that use hydraulic fluid in the brakes). For your Spitfire (and all Triumphs), "hydraulic fluid" will attack and ruin the seals used in the brake and clutch systems (even though they are hydraulic in nature).

"Transmission fluid" is short for "Automatic transmission fluid" and again will ruin the seals. It's also not suitable for use in your (manual) transmission.
 
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