California Emissions + 1980 MKIV 1500

[swift6]

Leaking oil being a cause for smog failure is a new one to me too. I would suppose that the oil would need tobe spraying out all over the place, and not just weeping out, for a tester to even bother noticing an oil leak. Burning oil on the other hand would be an automatic failure and would be a different kettle of fish.

 

[70herald]

@ Mickey, I've been told if it's leaking any oil it won't pass smog :frown:

They certainly check around here to see if it is leaking, but it needs to be a big steady leak before they will say anything. I just make sure that there are no major puddles or streams coming out and that seems to be good enough.

 

[tdskip]

A suggestion, though: Why not take care of the inspection issues and drive the car for a while - that's why you bought it! Oil leaks, unless they are really serious, can wait; especially since you're not sure of their origins.

Too often, and I'm including myself here, folks try to tackle too much at a time and end up frustrated.


Mickey

<span style="text-decoration: underline">This is seriously good advice</span> - why you'd be tearing into anything beyond the SMOG issue now is beyond me. To be clear, I very much want to see you successful here. Heck, I've offered to help, but for goodness sake make a list of what <span style="font-style: italic">actually</span> matters at this point. Stick to it. By doing anything else you are raising the probability of having to sell a partially incomplete or partially compromised car.

I've been told if it's leaking any oil it won't pass smog :frown:

You won't be failed on an oil leak unless there is a trail from the car leading into the SMOG testing bay. Who is telling you this stuff?

Stick to check list of what has to be done to pass emissions.

 

[Deleted member 8987]

Problem seems to be he's got this lot telling him what needs to be done, and some other lot, telling him to get an "exemption" on the pump 'cause you can't get them anymore, that he needs a "California Needle", that hanging any old cat off the headers will do, that they know someone that will do a pipe test and lok the otherway on visual, that the "Super Smog Pass Snake Oil" will solve all of his problems (including hologram-effect visuals showing all the missing bits actually in place) and now any car that leaks oil won't pass.

At some point, you are going to have to decide who you're going to listen to.
Doesn't mater to me.
I mean, I was surprised when we hit 100 replies on this thread, now we're over 200, and if you keep ducking over to these blokes who fill your head with poppycock, I do believe we will hit 500, and one year from now you still won't pass, as someone will have convinced you you don't need to folow California Rules TO THE LETTER.

I told you back on post what, 15 or 20, to ignore the little bits, concentrate on the SMOG stuff ONLY. Remember? Time, effort and money.
I would admit, if you've got a head gasket leaking, do that now, too, as it is emissions related, and you won't have to do the manifolds again later.

The next post on the subject from you SHOULD be:
Okay, everything is on the car, it runs, passed California Visual, my HC's are good, my CO is off a little bit, how do I set that?

Or something like that.

Step by step.

 

[elrey]

I know where there is a tired 66 GT6 round here. I hear he's asking around 1 k. Haven't seen it, I understand it has been parked for some time, engine runs, car has needs. But it don't need smog!--elrey

 

[Scott_Hower]

Any update?

 

[Gafirema]

@ Toc, I have taken everyone's opinion here more seriously than any other. You're right, I hear different things from different people, it's why I run it by the people here. It doesn't mean I would take their opinions over you guys, I just run things past you or am uninformed otherwise.

@ Scott, in the middle of a lot of stuff right now, waiting for the pump to come in tomorrow hopefully.

 

[Scott_Hower]

@ Scott, in the middle of a lot of stuff right now, waiting for the pump to come in tomorrow hopefully.

Remind me when you need to have this done?

 

[Gafirema]

@ Scott, the car needs to be smogged and registered no later than may 5th, that is my deadline. Also, your package just came in the mail, I sure do appreciate all your help Scott, thank you for the parts, I'll get this darn thing running some how. On a side note, it looks like the post office wasn't very gentle with the package, the flywheel on the smog pump was shattered into pieces and the pieces came out when I opened the bag. Luckily! The flywheel on the old smog pump I had is just fine, so I can switch that out quite easily. My main concern right now is if I get a carb rebuild kit, rebuild the carb but it's not good enough and find out I need to send it off for a several hundred dollar professional rebuild. I hope that's not the case... Another thing that is overwhelming is knowing exactly what little bits, bolts, washers, clamps, hoses, etc I might need to order from spitbits is. I wish there was a store you could just go buy the stuff from in person when needed.

More frustrations have arisen as well. The back left tire sounds like the brake pad is rubbing or there's something up with the rotor. I've had this sound before on other cars and it was always related to the brakes. Not quite sure what to do about that...

 

[tdskip]

More frustrations have arisen as well. The back left tire sounds like the brake pad is rubbing or there's something up with the rotor. I've had this sound before on other cars and it was always related to the brakes. Not quite sure what to do about that...

There isn't a rotor back there, it is a drum system on the rear. Does the car brake in a straight line? Does it only make the noise under braking?

 

[Gafirema]

It makes the noise whether I'm braking or not. Pretty much just at low speeds, as I go faster it disappears (at about 25mph).

 

[Gafirema]

Yeah, the really confusing part for me right now is knowing every little piece I'm going to need to put all this together. It looks like the pipes you need for the charcoal canisters are not even for sale. There's so many parts I'm looking at here... This is the spitbits list I've come up with so far, and this isn't even the half of it, I still need to put in some other pieces. Not only that but again, the piping for the charcoal canisters doesn't appear to be for sale, and it's not just hoses from what I see but piping as well.

 

[Scott_Hower]

@ Scott, the car needs to be smogged and registered no later than may 5th, that is my deadline. Also, your package just came in the mail, I sure do appreciate all your help Scott, thank you for the parts, I'll get this darn thing running some how. On a side note, it looks like the post office wasn't very gentle with the package, the flywheel on the smog pump was shattered into pieces and the pieces came out when I opened the bag. Luckily! The flywheel on the old smog pump I had is just fine, so I can switch that out quite easily. My main concern right now is if I get a carb rebuild kit, rebuild the carb but it's not good enough and find out I need to send it off for a several hundred dollar professional rebuild. I hope that's not the case... Another thing that is overwhelming is knowing exactly what little bits, bolts, washers, clamps, hoses, etc I might need to order from spitbits is. I wish there was a store you could just go buy the stuff from in person when needed.

More frustrations have arisen as well. The back left tire sounds like the brake pad is rubbing or there's something up with the rotor. I've had this sound before on other cars and it was always related to the brakes. Not quite sure what to do about that...

Flywheel? A smog pump has no flywheel. Do you mean the metal pulley? The plastic fan behind it? Save the box and go biotch at the Post Office. File a claim.

Do you have an Autozone or a chain auto parts store nearby? If so, for the love of all things holy, USE IT. Simply take the parts to the store and buy a bunch of hose that fits. You don't need to spend three bucks for a hose clamp at SpitBits. Same deal for washers, bolts, etc. Most everything on a late Triumph is SAE fine thread (exception being threaded aluminum castings which are always course; the only course thread is the air filter to carb bolts and the smog pump pulley bolts). There are no hardlines that you need other than what I sent.

You probably do need to order a head set (gaskets) and a set of manifold studs, clamps and brass nuts. The rest of the hardware can all be found locally.

Time permitting, why don't you bolt on the parts that are easy to fit. Charcoal canisters, air bleed valve (mounts to the lifting "eye" on the back of the head).

 

[Gafirema]

@ Scott, no worries on the post office deal my friend. I thought it was called a flywheel, my apologies, it's just the little metal pully wheel, but like I said the one from my old smog pump is just fine so I can easily swap it, no biggie, although it would be a creative idea to sue the post office at this point for more money to work on the car! Haha, just kidding...

Anyhow, about the parts locally. Is there any way you can list me (or some one else) exactly what I need to get from spit bits that I can't get locally? We've got Wal-Mart, Kragen, Pep-Boys, Autozone and all those great things here nearby, but in that case I would need to figure out what size bolts I would need, where as if I ordered them off spitbits... But as you said, for the hoses I guess I can take it to the auto parts store, but on that one diagram aren't their like, brass pipes that connect to the hoses that connect to the charcoal canisters? Or was that part of what you sent? Sorry about all this, I get confused easily, thank you for yours and everyone's patience (who gives me patience that is).

That being said, if I can buy most of this stuff locally I guess I will do so, I just need to figure out what size of nuts and bolts I need. Again, if you could possibly tell me all the things I need to order from spitbits (that I can't get locally)) it'd be super helpful.

One good thing is, I found a pair of jack stands that come with a jack at autozone for only 50 bucks. I'll probably go buy it tomorrow and begin the work.

Do you guys really think I can do all this? Get it done and get this car in smog order? I will say, this Haynes manual is a bit cryptic at times, I'm still trying to figure out how to get the smog pump on, but I think I'll be able to. Not sure yet if this alternator will work or not though.

 

[Andrew Mace]

Yeah, the really confusing part for me right now is knowing every little piece I'm going to need to put all this together. It looks like the pipes you need for the charcoal canisters are not even for sale. There's so many parts I'm looking at here... This is the spitbits list I've come up with so far, and this isn't even the half of it, I still need to put in some other pieces. Not only that but again, the piping for the charcoal canisters doesn't appear to be for sale, and it's not just hoses from what I see but piping as well.


34) CARBURETOR REBUILD KIT OE (auto choke) CDSK8 $45.00

33) CARB ADJUSTING TOOL B20379 $22.50



8) HOT AIR HOSE 1975-1980 TKC1455 CALL

7) CLAMP 1975-1980 GHC1622

6) ADAPTER 1975-1980 UKC3651

5) CLAMP 1975-1980 GHC1217 $1.99

4) BOLT (2req) 518583 NCA

3) AIR FILTER CANISTER SEAL (2req) 518584 $1.80

1) AIR FILTER GASKET 148006 $0.55




3) EXHAUST MANIFOLD STUD INNER (6req) 105125 $1.10

3) EXHAUST MANIFOLD STUD OUTER (2req) 105124 $0.93

4) MANIFOLD CLAMP LARGE (2req) 137845 $5.99

5) MANIFOLD CLAMP SMALL (4req) 58258 $6.55

6) WASHER (8req) WP9 $0.55

7) NUT NON CATALYST (8req) CATALYST (6) 100498 $0.99

8) NUT CATALYST EQUIPPED CARS (2req) CHA360 $1.99

9) HEATER PIPE (auto choke equipped cars) TKC1855 CALL ($30)

10) HOSE CLAMP (4req) UKC6723 CALL

11) WATER HOSE from 75 (manual choke cars) UKC5285 $5.99

12) ROLL PIN DS2512 $0.35

13) PLUG CA FM80001>, FED FM110001> 122132 $2.60

14) ADAPTER CA < FM80000, FED < FM110000 159942 CALL

15) FIBER WASHER (when item 13 is used) WF513 $0.30

15) FIBER WASHER (when item 14 is used) WF524 $0.35

17) EXHAUST STUD NON CATALYST (3req) 101962 $1.20

18) LOCK WASHER NON CATALYST (3req) WL208 $0.15

19) BRASS NUT NON CATALYST (3req) 515369 $0.95

20) STUD 129383 $0.45

21) SLEEVE NUT 101302 $3.44

22) OLIVE TL11 $2.00

23) ADAPTER 101343 $6.99

24) WATER RETURN HOSE up to FM80001 149700 $4.95

25) ADAPTER 138530 $6.20

26) WASHER WF524 $0.35

One thing that might help here, especially in saving money and time. If you take a look through the Standard-Triumph Hardware Catalogue, you can decode some of the part numbers you've listed and translate them into common hardware store items.

For the most part, six-digit part numbers such as 101302 (sleeve nut) are "special" in some way. But if you see something like WP9 or WF524, go to the washer section. You'll find WP0009 is 3/8" inner diameter and .81 inch outer diameter "Washer-Plain-Light"! WF0524 is a 5/8" inner diameter and 7/8" outer diameter "Washer-Fibre"!

Cool, huh? :cooler:

Oh, there's a .PDF version of the same catalogue here!

 

[Gafirema]

@ Andrew, Very Good! Thank you for that, it's a big help, I'll start going over it. So, order the parts with a long number and the ones with a short number get at the local stores. I think I understand.

 

[Gafirema]

Alright, off the spitbits 1500 catalog here's the parts I'm wondering about as of now.


Manifolds & Components

9) HEATER PIPE (auto choke equipped cars) TKC1855 CALL

Emission System USA & CA

2) AIR INTAKE BLEED VALVE ULC1637 CALL

3) CHECK VALVE UKC2643 $18.00

Does anyone know (mainly Scott, since he's sent me all these parts) if I will be needing those? I don't believe I have them. How many does one need of these? Also, I can't seem to find the "hot air hose" anywhere, on spitbits or any other site as far as I've looked.

Once I get all these parts rounded up I'm going to begin the work, or attempt to anyhow.

(Edit) Upon further inspection it looks like I have the check valve in place. You only need one, correct?

 

[Gafirema]

Okay, here is my final updated list. I think this is everything I need. If something is out of place please tell me. I don't -think- I need the heater pipe, but if anyone can inform me I would appreciate it. And yes, I do need the hood support stays (upper+lower) as mine is bent and doesn't hold up well.

ALSO! Please, if at all possible, if anyone see's anything in particular on this list that can absolutely for sure be bought locally can you please tell me the exact parts? I would very much appreciate it, very much.


Front Bodywork


19) HOOD SUPPORT STAY LOWER 613751 $15.00

20) HOOD SUPPORT STAY UPPER 613045 $15.00


Carburetor


34) CARBURETOR REBUILD KIT OE (auto choke) CDSK8 $45.00

33) CARB ADJUSTING TOOL B20379 $22.50


Air Filter & Fittings


8) HOT AIR HOSE 1975-1980 TKC1455 CALL

7) CLAMP 1975-1980 GHC1622

6) ADAPTER 1975-1980 UKC3651

5) CLAMP 1975-1980 GHC1217 $1.99

4) BOLT (2req) 518583 NCA

3) AIR FILTER CANISTER SEAL (2req) 518584 $1.80

1) AIR FILTER GASKET 148006 $0.55


Manifolds & Components


3) EXHAUST MANIFOLD STUD INNER (6req) 105125 $1.10

3) EXHAUST MANIFOLD STUD OUTER (2req) 105124 $0.93

4) MANIFOLD CLAMP LARGE (2req) 137845 $5.99

5) MANIFOLD CLAMP SMALL (4req) 58258 $6.55

6) WASHER (8req) WP9 $0.55

7) NUT NON CATALYST (8req) CATALYST (6) 100498 $0.99

8) NUT CATALYST EQUIPPED CARS (2req) CHA360 $1.99

9) HEATER PIPE (auto choke equipped cars) TKC1855 CALL

10) HOSE CLAMP (4req) UKC6723 CALL (get locally)

11) WATER HOSE from 75 (manual choke cars) UKC5285 $5.99

12) ROLL PIN DS2512 $0.35

13) PLUG CA FM80001>, FED FM110001> 122132 $2.60

14) ADAPTER CA < FM80000, FED < FM110000 159942 CALL

15) FIBER WASHER (when item 13 is used) WF513 $0.30

15) FIBER WASHER (when item 14 is used) WF524 $0.35

20) STUD 129383 $0.45

21) SLEEVE NUT 101302 $3.44

22) OLIVE TL11 $2.00

23) ADAPTER 101343 $6.99

25) ADAPTER 138530 $6.20

26) WASHER WF524 $0.35


Emission System USA & CA from FM80001


7) OLIVE TL11 $2.00

9) EGR ELBOW UKC7764 $3.00


Exhaust System


1) EXHAUST GASKET WITH CATALYST GEG742 $3.99

5) FLANGE BOLT, WASHER & NUT EHDW5 $1.20

7) EXHAUST COUPLING GEX7623 $4.00

 

[Scott_Hower]

Alright, off the spitbits 1500 catalog here's the parts I'm wondering about

9) HEATER PIPE (auto choke equipped cars) TKC1855 CALL

2) AIR INTAKE BLEED VALVE ULC1637 CALL

Both of these were included in what I sent. The bleed valve has a rubber L hose on the top of it and a small round can underneath it. It's connected to a bracket.

Heater pipe is U shaped hardline and plumbs the water choke to the heater hoses.

 

[Gafirema]

Hey Scott, thanks. That's good to know then.