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California Emissions + 1980 MKIV 1500

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Maybe I'm over analyzing all this. Once the parts and the smog pump gets here from Scott I just need to install it all, rebuild the carb, put it on, put all the pieces and hoses on, run it for awhile, maybe put some kind of additive in the fuel or something and maybe then it will pass. Worst case, I'll need a new alternator, get that put on and be home free.
 
Do it! Do a pre-test to see if it will pass,& if it does,
then go for it.

- Doug
 
There's plenty you can do right now. As already mentioned, get the car in tune. Change your plugs. Change your oil. Make a plan for what you're going to tackle first.

Did you install anything you already have? Got new heater hose for your intake manifold?

Air pump, charcoal can and some other bits left today. You should have it Monday.
 
Hey Scott, thank you very much sir.

I think I'm going to go about it something like this.

#1, try to fit on the smog pump, see if I need a new alternator or not.

Once that is done I need to probably buy some jack stands, hopefully I can fit them under the car with it proped up from the tire changing jack. If not I'll need to build some wooden ramps or something.

#2 Get the intake/exhaust manifolds put on

#3, get the cat-converter bolted on

#4, rebuild the carb

#5, get the carb installed

#6, put on the various bits, install the hoses, charcoal canisters, etc.

I'll need to clean off some of the pieces probably. Also I'm going to need to put a new bonnet-stay-rod on, $30 for the assembly from spitbits, mine is in terrible condition and barely holds. Not quite sure whether I'll do the oil/spark plug changes before or after all this work, I was thinking after. Might need to replace the head gasket due to a very minor leak, although I've been told by many a folk that some Lucas Stop Leak will fix the problem.

Once I've got all that done, I suppose I'll try to tune the carb the best I personally can and take it in for smog. Before I take it in for smog I'll probably use an additive for the fuel, air up the tires, run it for awhile, etc.

I dunno... I guess that's the best I can come up with for the moment.
 
Gafirema said:
...If not I'll need to build some wooden ramps or something...
Click to expand...

Please, no!! The Spitfire is a light car but if it falls on you, you are dead meat. Period. A very unpleasant death and not something your girlfriend would like to see.

Get yourself a trolley jack from Harbor Freight - they are not expensive and you are going to need it in the future. It will probably fit under the car, if not, use a scissor jack to lift it slightly. Then the trolley jack, then the jack stands. (I use a second set of jack stands under the body, just in case).

Good luck!
 
Gafirema said:
Might need to replace the head gasket due to a very minor leak, although I've been told by many a folk that some Lucas Stop Leak will fix the problem.
Click to expand...

In my opinion, you have zero chance of passing smog with a head gasket issue. Forget about quick fix additives and remedies; they are not going to fix this for you. I dont know who "many a folk" are, but most here will agree that's not the solution.

The best advice you are going to get IS PROBABLY RIGHT HERE ON THIS FORUM, or from a local British car club member, preferably with more hair on his chin than on his head. You cannot fix these issues with "miracle" chemicals. Let me repeat that, <span style="font-weight: bold">you cannot fix mechanical issues with something in a can from Autozone.</span> I don't care what it says on the can/bottle/whatever. Say it out loud ... "I will not pour snakeoil into my engine".

I will be brutally honest here. If you are unfamiliar with changing plugs, points and timing, you are going to struggle to tackle a head gasket. Engine condition is probably the very first thing you need to determine before you start bolting any parts on. If you need a head gasket, or don't know if you do, please seek help locally. If you install everything only to determine you have a daff gasket, you've just wasted everyones time.

Burning antifreeze is not going to help you at the smog station. Even if everything else is in perfect condition.
 
:iagree: I've been pouring Mechanic In A Can in my heap for years now and it still won't start! --elrey
 
Well, I've heard lots of good things about the lucus stop leak and heard it was more than just snake oil. But if you guys say no then I'll take your advice. I do know how to change out the spark plugs on a car and a lot more in fact, I just don't know a lot of these terms and words being flung around. If some one showed me what they were talking about at times I'd probably know a good bit more of what you're explaining. Again, admittedly I'm not the greatest mechanic around, but I'm not completely stupid either.

As far as the head gasket goes, I've watched a video of one being replaced on this exact car, I also overlooked the procedure in the haynes manual. I'm quite confident I could do it myself, but that's just my personal opinion.

And yeah, I'll probably go with a jack + jack stands, that was my original idea anyways. Some people suggested I use wooden ramps but it made me a bit nervous as well.

And yay, the parts just came in the mail from Scott. One question I have for Scott, do these parts include the hosing/piping needed for the charcoal canisters? Or will I need to grab those off of spitbits? Also, as far as the headers that are on there goes (they're built into the exhaust manifold on the current setup), if I'm not mistaken I take those off, bolt the cat-converter to the exhaust manifold then bolt the bottom of the cat (the pipe looking part) to the exhaust pipe on the bottom, no? Is there anymore piping I will need?

Thanks again for all the help (and parts) everyone.
 
Gafirema said:
Scott, do these parts include the hosing/piping needed for the charcoal canisters? Or will I need to grab those off of spitbits?
Click to expand...

No, you would not have wanted my 25yr old hoses. Just go to any autoparts store and get yourself vacuum hose. Take the charcoal can with you. Can't be more than a buck a foot or so. You'll need a couple of sizes, probably 5 or 6 feet of each.

Gafirema said:
as the headers that are on there goes (they're built into the exhaust manifold on the current setup), if I'm not mistaken I take those off, bolt the cat-converter to the exhaust manifold then bolt the bottom of the cat (the pipe looking part) to the exhaust pipe on the bottom, no? Is there anymore piping I will need?
Click to expand...

The cast iron Y shaped thingy (aka exhaust manifold) gets affixed to the head. You should have received a new metal gasket. That gets sandwiched inbetween. The cat bolts to the bottom of the manifold. The "can" end of the cat has studs on it and mounts against the manifold. The pipe end connects to your existing exhaust system. As far as exhaust plumbing thats it. Use a new gasket between the cat and the manifold.

On top of the exhaust manifold is a mushroom shaped thingy (aka EGR valve.) This recirculates a small amount of exhaust gas back into the intake manifold to be reburnt under certain manifold vacuum conditions. A small white covered tube connects the EGR valve to the intake manifold. This tube is asbestos covered, and made of unobtanium, be careful with it... DO NOT crossthread it. The EGR valve will eventually require a vacuum hose to be connected to the small nipple in order to actuate it; don't worry about that yet.

Rebuilt air pump, charcoal can, and some other goodies left today.
 
Lovely, thank you Scott.

I get all that and understand it and with that being said am a bit less confused.

I'm starting to have more confidence in this project.

Even the head Gasket, I think I can replace that myself. I read the haynes manual, watched the video of it, etc. I just need a piece of cardboard to number the pushrods and put them into, drain the fluids (from various places) and lift some things off. Doesn't seem too far fetched to me.

I think the hardest part of everything will be installing the air pump and rebuilding the carburetor.
 
Gafirema said:
I think the hardest part of everything will be installing the air pump and rebuilding the carburetor.
Click to expand...

The hardest part of this will be installing the two lower nuts that hold the intake manifold to the head. Unless, of course, you have the hands of a 5yr old.
 
Quick question if anyone knows. If I need to replace the gasket on the sump (oil pan gasket) do I need to take the entire engine out? Or can it be done just by going up under the car and unbolting it and taking it off? Of course, you have to drain the oil first I'm aware.
 
I am impressed. Seriously.
A month ago, when this all stared on 06MAR11, you probably wouldn't have thought of draining the oil first.

Good.
You're starting to think logically.
 
Yes, I'm definitely learning a good bit as things go further and further. No matter the outcome from this point I've gained a good bit of automotive knowledge and will most likely soon gain quite a bit more.

But do you know if I can remove the sump/oil pan from underneath the car? Or does the engine have to be lifted to replace that gasket. I want to replace all three main gaskets, the valve, head and sump gasket. The timing cover gasket doesn't appear to need replacing but who knows.

Edit: Bah... I heard there's a lot more places that can cause these oil leaks than just the gaskets anyways. Oh dear.
 
Again, this thread has been great, and it's good to see someone taking advantage of the learning curve here.

A suggestion, though: Why not take care of the inspection issues and drive the car for a while - that's why you bought it! Oil leaks, unless they are really serious, can wait; especially since you're not sure of their origins.

Too often, and I'm including myself here, folks try to tackle too much at a time and end up frustrated.

:cheers:
Mickey
 
Yeah, you can drop the sump.
Usually straightforward.
And, yes, there are a LOT of places to leak oil.
And I can almost guarantee you will eventually find every one of them.
 
New one on me, but then, I've been away from emissions for a spell. Unless CARB added environmental pollution to the mix.
 
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