BN1 5 stud conversion

[OZ_BN1]

Hi

I have fitted a 5 stud differential to my BN1, using the original springs and shocks. However when installing the new shock link it ends up being distorted once it has been tightened up. Its as if the shock arm needs to be bent slightly to line up properley.

Any ideas?

Cheers Graham

 

[Randy Forbes]

Picture?

Something clear and concise, that will give us something to think about.

There's a wealth of information here, but we need a little more to go on :wink:

 

[OZ_BN1]

Hi

For some reason I can only add one picture, I am sorry it was not clear but it was to me.

It's difficult to see in the photo but the shock link is no longer sitting as it should be. Once the shock arm is tightened up on the link it distorts it. Due to the rubber bush in the link the top section of the link is at adifferent angle than the bottom and the top link shaft has shifted out about 5mm.

Cheers Graham

 

[zblu]

Those look like the spring hangers at each end of the rear springs you are attached to, there should be an attachement point on the diff axle housing where it crosses the springs, and there should be a small "arm" off that that the lever bolts to

 

[vette]

I don't know how Bn-1s are built, but this is what the rear shock set up looked like on my BJ7 before I took it apart.
I hope the attachment took.

 

[Randy Forbes]

There's supposed to be a short tubular spacer on the shank that bolts to the axle bracket. Find and install that, and you should not have the alignment weighted, as it is in your picture.

While small, vette's picture shows the spacer.

 

[OZ_BN1]

I have taken a better photo. I have the small tubular spacer, it's installed on the bracket on the axle. The top link shaft goes through the bracket and the spacer, once tight it's position is set. However when mounting the shock it distorts the link. Im thinking now that that maybe the angle of the shaft on the link is not correct.If I could get the shock arm to go on further it would reduce the tension. I talked to Moss but they have not had anyone else with this issue.

Cheers Graham

 

[GregW]

Moss lists two different shock link assemblies #54 HERE . Do you have the ones for this axle?

 

[Randy Forbes]

Was your car "at ride height" when the picture was taken; i., e,. weight on the wheels.

I could see the if the distortion was at full droop or compression, and being centered when loaded.

 

[vette]

I believe maybe your alignment issue is minor. As Randy said, with weight on wheels maybe it is ok. But too, check to make sure the bracket welded to the axle is not bent.

 

[zblu]

I think the problem is the bent face the top connection is attached to, the faces should be parallel, if you bash that face out to match the other side I believe all will be ok

 

[zblu]

I must check to make sure, but it would make more sense for the distance piece to be between the parallel faces to get ensure a better transfer of load

 

[Genos2]

Think Zulu right, brackets looks bent on frame. Genos2

 

[GregW]

An optical illusion of an asymmetrical bracket. Say that fast three times.

 

[vette]

An optical illusion of an asymmetrical bracket. Say that fast three times.

I did, and it looks better already.

 

[vette]

An optical illusion of an asymmetrical bracket. Say that fast three times.

I did, and it looks better already.

 

[Michael Oritt]

Something does not make sense--if it was bent before the conversion then the same condition would have been there prior to doing it. Oz, do you remember how it was aligned when you disassembled things?

Also, is the misalignment only on one side or both? Did you change the panhard bar setting while doing the R and R and if so is it possible the axle housing is offcenter?

 

[OZ_BN1]

Hi

The problem is the same on both sides. The bracket is not bent probably the angle that the photo was taken. The chassis is sitting up on stands. Have added another photo showing the link prior to being fitted, you can then see in the other photos how the top link shaft has repositioned itself.
The panhard bar was extremely difficult to install, never thought to measure anything to see if axle is sitting central. I will go take some measurements.

Thanks for the help

Graham

 

[pan]

Just a small note: When swapping to the hypoid "5 stud" axle on a BN1, shouldn't one also change the front brake cylinders? When the new axle was introduced during production the front wheel brake cylinder bore was reduced from 1" to 7/8" .
I understand this was to balance the brakes as the front brake drums were still 1.75" wide but the rear drums on the new axle were 2.25". How critical is this in practice?

 

[OZ_BN1]

Hi

Just an update, I have taken the measurements and all apears to be correct. So I plan to leave it as it is and see what it looks like once it's off the stands.

The front brakes have been converted to disks using the Welch conversion kit.

Cheers Graham