Hi SP,
A direct quote from the above reference & also from my SU carb manual:
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Tuning single carburetters:
1-
A. Run the engine up to normal running temperature.
B. Switch off the engine.
C. Unscrew the fast idle adjusting screw (2) to clear the throttle stop with the throttle closed.
D. Screw down the slow running valve (1) onto it's seating, then un-screw it 3 1/2 turns.
Note: Paragraph 2 covers setting the jet levels even with the bridge.
3-
C. lower the jet by turning the jet adjusting screw (3) down 2 1/2 turns.
4-
A. Restart the engine and adjust the slow running valve (1) to give the desired idling as indicated by the glow of the ignition warning light.
B. Turn the jet adjusting screw (3) up up to weaken or down to enrich, until the fastest idling speed consistent with even running is obtained.
C. Re-adjust the slow running valve, if necessary, to give correct idling.
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Tuning Multi carburetters:
9
Note -
Whenever the throttle adjusting screws (6) are fitted, they, & not the slow running valves, must be used to adjust the idling speed. Screw down the slow running valves (which must remain closed) and set the throttle adjusting screws (6) 1 1/2 turns open. In items 10 & 11, adjust the idling speed with the throttle adjusting screws.
A. Slacken the clamping bolt (8) on one of the throttle spindle interconnection couplings between the carburetters.
B. Disconnect the jet control interconnecting rod at the forked end (9).
10
A. restart the engine and turn the slow running (1), or throttle adjusting screws, an equal amount on each carburetter to give the desired idling speed as indicated by the glow of the ignition warning light.
B. Compare the intensity of the intake hiss on all carburetters and alter the the slow running valves (1) or throttle adjusting screws, until the hiss is the same.
11
A. turn the jet adjusting screws (3) an equal amount on all carburetters, up to weaken or down to enrich, until the fastest idling speed consistent with even running, is obtained.
B. Readjust the slow running valves or the throttle stops, if necessary.
12
A. check the mixture etc.
13
A. Tighten the clamp bolt (8) of the throttle spindle interconnections with the pin of the link pin lever resting against the edge of the pick-up lever hole. This provides the correct delay in opening the front carburetter throttle.
B. Reconnect the jet control linkage (9) so that the jet operating arms move simultaneously. If necessary, turn the forked ends.
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Forgive my if I have repeated what is obvious. The point is, that single carbs are adjusted with the slow running valve & multi carbs with the throttle stops. The note at the top of 9 takes precedence over following notes to adjust the slow running valve. Note that later, it always says slow running valve OR throttle adjusting screw.
I think that turning the jet adjusting screw in - down - clockwise, lowers the jet. You can easily tell by watching the jet in relation to the bridge & see which way it moves when turning the screw. Turning the screw in raises the end of the lever which pivots & lowers the jet end.
In reality I've not found much difference between the two procedures. Opening the throttle stops a bit prevents any possibility of the butterflies binding in the bores, as they might if they were completely closed. I believe it is also easier to synchronize the carbs by using the throttle stops rather than the slow running valves. Or, maybe a combination of the two (throttle stops & slow running valves) will work best for you.
Note in 13A, there is an intentional delay in opening the front carb. I think this is to assure that both throttles get fully seated against there stops. With them linked solidly together there would always be a tendebcy for on or the other to seat first & prevent the second one from completely closing.
Happy tuning,
D