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BJ8 carb sync using a Uni-Syn, can you actually use it?

jjs64bj8

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Just go our 64BJ8 running after sleeping for almost 30 years. Everything rebuilt and motor seems to run fine. But have questions on the fine tuning of the SU HD8s.

I have been reading for several days the various threads and other available documentation on how to set these things. I have followed them and have gotten great results. Started out with a little backfiring and after some tweaking there is not longer any backfiring when blip the throttle and have a smooth 600 RPM idle. Timing, dwell, etc all spot on.

But all of the directions say to balance the front and rear carbs with the slow run adjusting screw the same amount to get 500-600 RPM. Supposedly you are to balance the air flow using a listing tube or in my case I want to use a Uni-Syn balancing tool. I tried this and cannot get them to exactly balance. For those of you familiar with this tool there is a little indicator that floats up and down in a tube that is about 3" long. Without any separate fine tuning of the slow running adjustment screw (meaning both are adjusted the same amount) they are within about 1-1/2" of each other but not exact. But then by fine tuning one or the other of the screws it does not seem to make any difference on the tools indicator, it is what it is. Using a listening tube simulating a stethoscope both carbs sound about the same.

Then I read a post where it says using such a tool does nothing because the slow running adjustment is done with the throttle plates close. If so why do all the instructions tell you to balance the air flow. So how does one actually balance the air flow? In the same post referenced above the claim is made that by default the air flow through each carb must be the same because the throttle plates are closed and the geometry is the same, UNLESS there is a major leak in the carb somewhere, such as the shaft bushings. Some instructions say to use the pointing wire setup which I have not tried.

Bottom line is the car seems to run terrific after a very brief road test. The only observation is the rear carb does not seem to be sucking as much air as the front as when the uni-syn is placed on the front it starves that carb a little. When placed on the back it has no effect.

Sorry for the long post, just trying to get it right, or maybe as long as the car runs right, should I not worry about it?

So question again is - how does one balance the air flow on these carbs?

Thanks,

jjs64bj8

PS, dumb question, would the rear carb maybe not be sucking as much because of the brake booster vacuum take off is at that end of the manifold? Told you this was dumb, but could it be?
 
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jjs64bj8

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In most of the instructions they do not specify whether or not to have them disconnected. I did not have them disconnected. In the case of the HD8s, since the throttles are not being moved and remain closed, what difference does it make if connected or not. By only adjusting the slow running screw which just effects the bypass of the throttle plate, nothing else is moving. I did have them disconnected initially in setting them statically up per the various procedures.

Am I missing something or just do not understand what is going on. Thanks for the reply.

jjs64bj8
 

steveg

Yoda
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Disregard the slow running screws - they're for idle only and are not a factor when the throttles are in use. The idle is not the main issue here.

You can loosen the connecting linkage and use the idle screws (#57 on Moss HD8 page) to achieve the same position with the uni-syn pipper for each carb; then reconnect the linkage and back off on the idle screws until there's a small clearance between the screws and their stops. Then open the slow running screws to achieve the desired idle. IMHO you should also use a couple of colourtunes to get the same richness for each carb (just on the yellow side of bunsen blue), then check the main jet depression on each with a dial caliper to make sure the jets are down the same amount.
 
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After idle is set and the throttle shafts reconnected open the Unisyn way up and check the flow with the carbs off-idle (I put a flatwasher or two under the lever that rests on the small, flat platform on the manifold. Don't know the correct term, but it's between the two carbs).

You want both carbs to have the same airflow:
1) at idle
2) off idle
 
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jjs64bj8

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So from the replies so far, using the Uni-Syn to adjust the flow will only actually see changes with the throttles opened somewhat. As steveg suggests to loosen the couplings and use the fast idle screws to adjust the flow, then lock the coupling. But will that not allow both carbs have their throttle plates totally closed when the fast idle screws are backed off to get the clearance. If one of the throttle plates is not closed all the way then the slow running screw will not be effective.

Am I really getting confused here?

Thanks
jjs64bj8
 
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Plug the vacuum advance on the rear carb with a wine cork. I like the colortune and the needles. I keep the wire set in the boot because it is very portable. You don't have to remove the air cleaners. You can lift the pistons with them too. You should also listen at the exhaust for evenness in each pipes. But the Uny-syn is good too. In all cases you need to sync at idle then raise rpm to see if they stay in sync. The best and most accurate is the colortune. But you need two. Check ebay.
TH
 
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jjs64bj8

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Where can I get the "wire set" or can I make one. Colortunes are about $50 each, rather not have to spend another $100 when I have the Uni-Syn. I understand to get them in sync but how do I do it. Is it the fast idle screws with the throttle plates slightly opened as others suggest with the connection loosened. But what about the concern that by doing so one of the the throttle plates will not totally close anymore.

Thanks
jjs64bj8
 

Keoke

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Colortunes are about $50 each, rather not have to spend another $100 when I have the Uni-Syn.

Get one they are safer and easy to use.


OH !!, That rubber hose will get you there too--:glee:
 
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Healey Nut

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Heres a really cheap way to do it and all you need is a piece of rubber tube . Listen to the hiss get them as close as you can . Go for a good drive of 25miles or so as long a she runs smooth . Pull a plug from the rear 3 and from the front 3 check the color should be a nice light tan . If they are check them again after another run or adjust accordingly .
 

RAC68

Darth Vader
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You attained a steady 600 RPM from a BJ8...that's something I have never been able to achieve even when my car was brand new. In fact, since my compression ration was substantially increased in the late '60s, 900-1000 RPMs has been more common for me. I checked with a number of BJ8 owners and found 850 - 1000 RPMs idle was what they set as well. So, from my experience, a steady 600 RPM idle is more of what you would achieve from a pre-BJ8 with a standard lower compression and pre-HD8s.

Also, if you are balancing your carburetors with a Uni-Sync, you must disconnect your linkage to allow each to be separately adjusted for air flow balancing.

Sounds like you are doing great,

Ray (64BJ8P1)
 
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jjs64bj8

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I ordered a set of the indicator wires which will back up the Uni-Syn. Thanks for all the comments. From what a few of you have indicated, I should be happy with what I got.

Thanks and we will let you know how the wires work out.

jjs64bj8
 
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I agree never could get my bj8 to idle that low the best I ever get is around 900

Side note: When I installed a Pertronix Ignitor in my BJ8 I had to re-time it; whilst doing so the idle fell to 300rpm. Lumpy, but it ran. It now idles at 750rpm, give-or-take 100rpm depending on atmospheric conditions.
 

steveg

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Where can I get the "wire set" or can I make one. Colortunes are about $50 each, rather not have to spend another $100 when I have the Uni-Syn. I understand to get them in sync but how do I do it. Is it the fast idle screws with the throttle plates slightly opened as others suggest with the connection loosened. But what about the concern that by doing so one of the the throttle plates will not totally close anymore.

Thanks
jjs64bj8

The "wire set" is Moss' "SU Tool Kit", PN 386-300 ($21.95 USD). A good inexpensive confirmation of the "hose method" of syncing. You'll also want to use the lifting pins to set the mixture screws.
 

why

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Um, you said it runs just fine, end of conversation "a difference that makes no difference is no difference"
 

SideShifter Tri-Carb

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Side note: When I installed a Pertronix Ignitor in my BJ8 I had to re-time it; whilst doing so the idle fell to 300rpm. Lumpy, but it ran. It now idles at 750rpm, give-or-take 100rpm depending on atmospheric conditions.
I had the same experience. My triple HS4s will sip air between 700-750 RPM.
 
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I had the same experience. My triple HS4s will sip air between 700-750 RPM.

Off-topic, maybe, but all the newer cars I've driven--including my '96 Ranger and '08 Mustang--idle at 750rpm after a brief warmup ('open loop') period. Of course, new cars are computer-controlled and could be made to idle at just about any speed, but they all idle at 750. Wonder if there's anything significant about that?
 

CrashTestJason

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Buy the colourtune plugs. For $100 they are well worth it.
I highly recommend this article
www.healey6.com/Technical/HD8.pdf
Follow the system in the article and finish off with 2 colourtunes to fine tune and your motor will purr,
 
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