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Best way to improve handling?

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Steve P.

Steve P.

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Just starting on the restoration/upgrade of a 1973 Midget. The plan is to build it for autocross as well
as a weekend driver. Other than a complete rebuild of the front end and new rear springs
& shocks (I want to stay with lever shocks), what would folks here suggest doing? Starting
with the most bang for the buck.

Things I'm thinking about include reducing unsprung weight by going to mag wheels,
larger sway bar, and lowering the whole car. And how low can you go practically
speaking?

Would appreciate any and all suggestions. TIA

Steve
 
If you know where you are going to autox, find out what suspension mods they allow before bumping you up a class.

Most bang for the buck would be to talk to Tom Colby at Speedwell Engineering and get some free advice as to what would make the best integrated system. https://www.speedwellengineering.com/ . I'm guessing the recommendations would be bigger front sway bar, added rear sway bar, lowering springs. Have your shocks rebuilt by Peter C at World Wide Auto Parts with uprated valves https://www.nosimport.com/british-c...rebuilt-better-than-new-world-wide-auto-parts

Tires will probably make the biggest improvement, although I don't know what the hot one is for autox now
 
upsize to 14" rims to get a better selection of tires (if class rules allow)
 
If you go with a heavier front bar, I'd fit a panhard on the rear and stiffer springs. NO rear sway bar.
 
I'd go with a Watts linkage on the back rather than the Panhard bar that Trevor suggests. I fitted a Panhard bar and it does tend to bind at the suspention limits. Agree that fitting a rear sway bar can work but usually doesn't. Has to be light and just right.

Kurt
 
Panhard is much cheaper and with lowering and stiff springs the binding is minimal (IMO). I also think I have a panhard laying around here that was removed from my midget when it was returned to "cruiser duty".
 
Agree that the Panhard bar is MUCH cheaper but for my spirited street midget I wish I had sprung for the Watts or made one up.

Kurt
 
I, too, was considering suspension improvements to my Sprite as the major winter project. I'm not looking to do anything crazy, just to make the car a little more fun to throw around. I already have Peter C. lever shocks on all four corners and new tires. I figure replacing the bushings is a good place to start just with the existing setup. It sounds like the rear sway bar is probably not a good idea, but getting a slightly thicker front one may help. Or is this a case of trying to fix something that isn't broken?
 
Adding a heavier front bar and nothing else may introduce understeer. A thicker sway bar is sometimes needed as suspension travel decreases such as when the car is lowered. Or, a thicker bar may be needed if the spring rates are increased. It gets complicated real quick.

For a 1/2 elliptical rear spring car . I think poly bushes on the rear of the car, a panhard bar, and a 5/8 sway bar on the front may tighten the car without making it plow into corners.
 
You have many options to change the performance in your cars handling. spring rates, ride heights, camber, anti roll bars, unsprung weight, total weight of car. tires, wheels, brakes, munford link, panhard bar and watts link. All of these are subject to your driving style and what your wanting out of the car. You can find a lot of off the shelf performance or a blend which will require fabrication skills and equipment. Lots of nice stuff out their for these little cars now , but do your homework because not all off the shelf parts are the same quality.
 
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I had 67 with front and rear bars and I always thought it handled very well, I don't remember the specifications on the bars (if I ever knew them, car came with the bars on) but I am guessing they were a set from ADDCO. Course I was just a kid, but it sure seemed to handle flat a neutral around the corners on the city streets, never autocrossed back then.
 
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