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Bad front wheel bearing.

T

Tinster

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It appears I have a bad front wheel bearing.
Can anyone walk me thru the procedure to remove and
replace front wheel bearings? Is it difficult?
Can a non-wrench like me accomplish the task?

Thanks,

dale :devilgrin:
 
Who said?
You only have about 2-3000 miles on the last replacement
 
Basically, Dale, once the front is up on stands:

1. remove wheel
2. unbolt caliper and hang somewhere so as not to stress the hose
3. prise off grease cap
4. remove cotter pin and castellated nut
5. remove hub/rotor assembly, trying your best NOT to drop the washers, bearings and other stuff

If either bearing looks bad, falls apart, has bluish spots anywhere from overheating or is otherwise damaged, then time for a new one.

But before you do ANY of the above, as Don implies, how do you know a bearing is bad? Could it just need (re)adjusting, which only involves #1, #3 and half of #4 above?
 
DNK said:
Who said?
You only have about 2-3000 miles on the last replacement

Not a replacement Don. A rebuild.

DPO Pedro was running his front wheel bearings with NO grease whatsoever. I rebuilt the existing bearings.

Anyone got an extra they care to donate??

d
 
Do as Andy suggest and look them over and you haven't answered my question of Whom?
 
DNK said:
Do as Andy suggest and look them over and you haven't answered my question of Whom?

Two experience Triumph guys - "you got a front wheel bearing needing work."

Maybe I just need to tighten the castlenut a 2 flats?

d
 
Tinster said:
Not a replacement Don. A rebuild.
Dale, taking something apart and smearing grease in it does NOT constitute a "rebuild" !
 
Tinster said:
Two experience Triumph guys - "you got a front wheel bearing needing work."
Next time someone tells you that, ask WHY they think that!
 
Agreed. The standard "Bearing Repack and Adjustment" is a routine maintenance job, not major overhaul time and I thought that you replaced the bearings back then too.

And if they're so sure of it, which I don't doubt, invite them over to take them apart with you and show you exactly what is wrong.
 
...and p'raps how to do it properly. Always good to learn "how to fish".
 
Dale - yesterday you started a thread on your high RPM idle speed. This morning, Paul asked how the situation is going. At 10:46am today you replied:

Tinster said:
end of this thread-

dale


At 10:40 this morning you started another thread on your cable linkage.
At 10:44 this morning you started *another* on manifold vacuum.
At 1:07 this afternoon you started *another* on your front wheel bearings.
At 2:32 you started another, on New Year's cooking.

Help! We can't all keep up with ya!

Dale - we might feel more like helping if you'd let folks help on one problem before just dropping it and veering off onto another problem. If guys are trying to help you, leaving them in a cloud of dust with "End of this thread" doesn't exactly encourage involvement.

T.
 
To test the front wheel bearing, grab the top of the tire and pull-push. If you can feel any movement movement, the bearing might need adjustment. Most of the original bearings were high quality Timken brand which will usually last (like) forever if properly serviced once in a while.

(btw, repeated panic stops from highway speed are not good for your car. Were you just trying to break something else?)
 
Dale,

If you think you have bad wheel bearing(s), remove them, clean them up of all the dirt and grease and take pictures for us to see. You like to to pics. This way we can see how good or bad they are. With wheel bearings, it's pretty visual as to their state. They start making noise when they get pitted. This can be readily seen. The noise will manifest itself mostly on turns when the bearings are being loaded. If you hear the sound when making left turns, then the problem is on the right and vice-versa.

As far as acquiring new ones, they are probably the same as some old Chevy and should be easily available on the island. Triumph did not use anything weird for their wheel bearings. There will be numbers on them that any parts store can cross reference.

And I disagree with repeated panic stops from highway speed not being good for the car. These are sports cars that were built for aggressive driving. They may take a bit more maintenance when used in such a way, but it is a sports car after all.
 
Tinster said:
It appears I have a bad front wheel bearing.
Can anyone walk me thru the procedure to remove and
replace front wheel bearings? Is it difficult?
Can a non-wrench like me accomplish the task?

Thanks,

dale :devilgrin:


Go Fishing!
 
Dale one of the very 1st things I've ever done on any LBC Iv'e owned is,
<span style="font-weight: bold">replace the front and rear bearings!</span>

Should ALWAYS keep them well greased!

After everything you've done to your car
<span style="font-weight: bold"> It deserves more new parts!</span>


<span style="font-weight: bold"><span style="text-decoration: underline"><span style="font-style: italic">bearings = simple job</span></span></span>
 
I could have sworn that we endured the wait and bill from either Moss or TRF for new bearings in Episode 3, Chapter II of the "Suspension Rebuild Board". I can't imagine how with all of those new suspension parts that $20 worth of bearings didn't go in at that time. They can't be worn out by now. Where is that thread? I thought that I bookmarked it.

Who are these new Triumph on site technical advisors anyhow?

What exactly did they say was wrong?
 
OK Dale, I stand corrected. I found your original article from August 2007 and you did clean and repack the existing inner and outer front wheel bearings, which did look pretty good in those pictures.

So what could have gone wrong with them in least than 2,000 miles since then?

This is what you told me but I still don't understand why the RF wheel bearing needs to be replaced if you never pulled the bearings to double check them?

"They were very surprised how smooth the suspension was
over bumps. Steering nice and tight. Right front wheel
bearing soon needs replacement. " A nice overall restoration"
 
Peter, where did you get the Timken bearings on your original 6's???

I've had 6 6's since the late 80's.. NONE of them came with Timken bearings on the front spindles.

Timken bearings have more rollers than the original, so the load is spread.... First 6 I replaced the bearings on, I ordered replacements from TRF. They sent me the original, barely sufficient number of rollers style that came factory. After spending many, many years servicing wheel bearings I knew that there had to be better bearings available, I took them down to my friendly bearing supply house. They were able to pull the Timken bearings number out of an application book, but the Timkens were NOT stock... That is alos the time I upgraded the felt seals to proper spring loaded rubber wiper seals.
 
I don't believe the original bearings were Timken. RHP was more common.

But Timken bearings to fit can be bought from TRF (at a premium over the far east import bearings).
 
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