Back on the Midget after a vacation and work break.

[JPSmit]

JP, your Moss seal fits a lot better than mine. It looks like your gap is pretty close to 3/8. Mine must have been more like 1/2.I didn't actually measure it but was just guessing. BTW, your car looks outstanding.

Thanks! and, don't forget that seal has been there (and compressed) for almost 15 years (hard to believe as I type that)

 

[DavidApp]

Thanks JP for the info.

I have the rear apron mostly welded in now and am playing with the gaps. Cheating on one side as the edge was damaged at some time in the past and bondo was used to fill the dents. I have tacked some coat hanger wire to give me a straight edge to work to.
I do have the bumpers and seal so I will see what that does to the fit.

Also working on the dash. Got the Moss dash cover in their sale. I am having to do some adjustments to get it to fit nicely. Looking at the dash wiring diagram I notice the light switch (No 6 on Appendix 14) has an illumination bulb but I do not see a bulb holder located in a position that would illuminate the little window in the switch.

David

 

[DavidApp]

The dash cover has been a huge struggle to get it to fit well. I am not sure if the more expensive offering from Moss would have been easier but the cheaper one has been a task.
Getting the old bulb holders out of the dash was a tricky and I did find the star washers are available on the Moss site under the MGB section.
I did manage to get 1 star washer off with the pick method but the others seem to have bitten into the bulb holders so I could not get them to move. Was more worried about the bulb holders than the star washers.

I managed to get the cover glued down and the edges glued in place. The cut outs for the gauges and switches do not match very well. If I had to do it again I would clean All the residual foam off the switch and gauge area as that was partly responsible for preventing the switches locking into the dash. There were 2 switched that I could not get to lock in and I noticed that the old switch had a wire spring clip. Used a dab of hot melt in desperation.

I tested the Tachometer using my TR3A as a tester. It works so the only gauge I have not tested is the fuel gauge. All the others work.

The finished look.

David

 

[JPSmit]

looking good! keep us posted

 

[DavidApp]

Beginning to see a light at the end of the tunnel.

Started sorting through the main wiring harness to see what the PO had done. Looks like it is relatively unmolested. Planning on deleting the seat belt warning stuff.

David

 

[JPSmit]

probably a good time to add some relays - headlights and perhaps horn.

 

[DrEntropy]

probably a good time to add some relays - headlights and perhaps horn.

And add 'em someplace convenient in the engine bay.

 

[DavidApp]

Thanks for that tip. I think the wire connectors to the headlights and horns are in the worst condition.

David

 

[DavidApp]

Never got any tips on the seam between the wing and rear apron below the tail lights. It is impossible to get in there and weld it so I did a tack at top and bottom and 3 small brazes in between. My home made clamps held the joint nice and tight.
The piece with the holes below the tail light is the bottom of my homer made tail light aperture. The original was too damaged to save.
Still got a bit of tidying up on the seam between the new apron and old body.

David