Back on the Midget after a vacation and work break.

[DavidApp]

I am getting back to working on my 74 Midget after a few weeks of vacation, work and other distractions.

Trying to get some of the bits back together for a change of pace.
Any thoughts on the front wheel bearings? MG style or Taper roller bearings? Also is there a Speedy sleeve for the oil seal as I have a slight grove worn by the seal?

David

 

[DavidApp]

Got the floor pan painted inside and outside with 2 coats of POR15.

I have a lot of bits sand blasted, primed and painted black using Rust-Oleum Farm & implement paint to which I added some Majic Catalyst hardener. Seems to give a nice glossy finish and if it is tough enough for farm equipment it should do for for a pampered car.

David

 

[DavidApp]

Getting some of it back together while I still remember where parts go.

David

 

[drooartz]

Getting some of it back together while I still remember where parts go.

David

Good on ya! I'm worried about that very thing, given that my Bugeye has been in boxes for years.

 

[DavidApp]

I have lots of zip lock bags with parts and a note as to what the part is. The note made sense when I wrote it but not so much months later. Lots of photos but always seem to miss the vital angle.
Getting its reassembled is an incentive to keep pulling its off the car. Also I can store the finished assemblies in the basement out of my way.
Cleaned the seat frames up today.

David

 

[JPSmit]

I have lots of zip lock bags with parts and a note as to what the part is. The note made sense when I wrote it but not so much months later. Lots of photos but always seem to miss the vital angle.
Getting its reassembled is an incentive to keep pulling its off the car. Also I can store the finished assemblies in the basement out of my way.
Cleaned the seat frames up today.

David

glad I am not the only one

 

[DavidApp]

The seat frames will need a bit of repair. The tube that goes across the back of the seat bottom has a few small rust holes. Will order some 3/4" steel tube from Granger.

David

 

[DavidApp]

While I was working on the hubs replacing the Angular contact bearings with the Taper roller bearings I found a couple of odd things.
First was the outer bearing on one hub seemed to only have half an outer race. It was not broken and I can see the factory grind marks on the face of the bearing. Is that a normal MG bearing.
On the passenger side hub an outer ball must have been trapped between the spacer and hub at some time. The wheel turned before I took it apart and there were no missing balls.

David

 

[DavidApp]

Back on to working on the Midget.

The front suspension is done and the shocks are back from World Wide Auto parts.
I am working on the rear axle now and the steering rack. Getting ready to paint and reassemble them so I can put them in the basement out of the way.
Any suggestions on stripping he paint from the engine block? I do plan to rebuild the engine but will not have it hot tanked.

I have had a rear apron panel on order from Moss for some time but it is on BO. I see that Moss UK has it in stock so with the exchange rate being in my favor I may order it from the UK. Have to look at the price of some other parts as well.

I have relocated my rotisserie rear mounts so I can access the rear apron. The original mounts were the bumper bracket bolts.

David

 

[JPSmit]

glad you are back at it - I had my block hot tanked and measured by an engine builder though I did the actual rebuilding. If it is set to be rebuilt I suspect a wire wheel and some paint stripper would be as handy as anything.

 

[DavidApp]

That was what I was thinking. As the block has its tag still attached I was worried that hot tanking would dissolve it.

David

 

[JPSmit]

That was what I was thinking. As the block has its tag still attached I was worried that hot tanking would dissolve it.

David

I would hate to risk losing that - can you not just give it a good clean and leave it at that - with the tag the patina might be more appealing

 

[DrEntropy]

In the past I'd been too cavalier with the tags, not taking the time to flat-spot the rivets and drill them out. Mostly with my own blocks. The tag will disintegrate in a tank. But dipping the block is the best way to insure it has no oil galley passages etc. full of restricting gunk. Take the time to drill the rivets out and tank it, David. Small effort for peace of mind.

 

[DavidApp]

Thank you Doc.
Can you get the rivets to replace the tag?
Good point about getting it really clean.
Paint stripper is doing a number on the ugly orange paint on the block.

David

 

[DavidApp]

Got the axle painted ready for reassembly.

I noticed that the brake slave cylinder retaining "E" clip seems to be too large a diameter so it interferes with the axle housing. The opening in the "E" clip has to go towards the bleed nipple, They are Moss parts.

David

 

[DavidApp]

A couple of questions on the 74 Midget.

On the steering column there is a large SKF co type nut as the shaft exits the fixed part of the column. Is there any way to secure the nut and what is it intended to do?

Anyone have a photo of the top corner of the "B" post. Mine are rusted away so I am not sure how much is missing.

David

 

[DavidApp]

Got the Tag off the block without damaging it. The old wood chisel came off worst in the encounter. I think it is off to the hot tank and bore honing as there is a little wear in the bores and one has some rust at the top of the bore. Not too bad but it needs fixing.
Looks like I need to press the ring back on the flywheel because there is a slight gap between the gear and flywheel.
No timing chain tensioner on the 1275 engine?

David

 

[DavidApp]

Took the block, head, crank shaft and flywheel to the machine shop today. Thought I was going to have to go to a Lawn mower shop because at first they said their boring machine would not do that small a bore. The crank shaft looks to be good so they will check it and polish the journals.
I hope that the cam shaft bearings from Moss do not need reaming like the Bentley book talks about. Ordered a set of 0.020"over size pistons, valves and guides.

I can get back on the bodywork now as the rear apron has turned up from Moss UK. They are still on Back order at Moss US?

David

 

[DavidApp]

Anyone know if the rear light assemblies are handed or if they are both the same?

I am working on getting the rear apron fitted. Running into some issues with it. On the apparently undamaged passenger side the join between the wing and apron look good and the step where the rear light sits is fine. The Holes for the bumper mounts are out of position and the boot lid does not align up well. I am going to make some clamps so I can keep the seam below the lights closed up while I look at the other areas. The new part is BMH and looks very good. I have fitted the boot lid so I can use that as a guide for opening shape.

David

 

[Bayless]

I'm pretty sure the lights are the same or I got lucky. There are no markings on mine either.