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TR2/3/3A Amp Gauge-erratic reading after alternator conversion
- Thread starter Redoakboo
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I have swapped the two heavy wire leads, including the overdrive relay wire. The gauge now records a positive, steady reading on the plus side.
Thanks guys, for all your help. Now, if I can find the elusive loose wire running the psgr side, rear blinker, everything will be fine.
Today I am installing a new radio. I am putting it under the rear seat, right in the middle. I have four speakers, two in front and two in back. I am going to use a surface mounted antenna behind the rear view mirror.
charleyf
Luke Skywalker
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Thanks Steve. The engine has just been rebuilt with almost all new components. Professional friend did the rebuild, used lots of lube. This is the third TR engine he has built with me.
Charley
jcw67spitfire
Freshman Member
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Interesting situation and thread of advice and suggestions. Inviting those of you on this thread to a group for electric upgrades of all sizes.
I am getting ready to convert my voltage regulator to a "dummy" as Hamish shows above. So I assume that this conversion would be the same for my TR4A correct? There is a comment below that by Steve stating not to connect the "F" wire. I assume he means just tape it? I have searched for Randall Young's post on this and surprisingly cannot find it despite spending considerable time on it. Does anyone have that post or direct me as I recall he had covered it very well. However I can use what is posted above but what is the definitive answer on the F wire? Bruce
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The problem with posting emails in a forum is that "bots" that crawl the interent (like Google does) will see it as an email address and "harvest" it to use in their lists that they spam people with. However, if you look under the smilies icon in the editor you will see I have a "smilie" that is an image of the @ sign. This allows you to post an email address that a human can read, but those spam bots that crawl th net will not see it as an email. So, if you need to post an email, it is higjly recommended you use that "picture" like this: basil
britiishcarforum.com << Any human can read that, but a bot will not see this an an email address - much safer if you need to post your email address.I do not want to "hijack" this thread but I will go ahead since it is directly related. Basil if you feel it is inappropriate let me know (or anyone else). David - I see you are not using E and F but Hamish is using them. Can someone explain in simple terms (for me) why it is done both ways and is there a advantage to one way over the other. Another dumb question - are the leads that you are soldering to cut or do you just solder to them and that takes care of it? They don't look cut. Is the "coil" assembly simply left in place or removed? Bruce
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Bruce I have NO electrical knowledge and followed advice from those in the know in the tr register
I did cut the “fixed” metal strips
And my observation was the connections for the thick wires join to each other and the same for the thin wire connections.
I also removed the innards ( use it to keep spares like a plug. Fuses and spare electronic ign unit.)
I did cut the “fixed” metal strips
And my observation was the connections for the thick wires join to each other and the same for the thin wire connections.
I also removed the innards ( use it to keep spares like a plug. Fuses and spare electronic ign unit.)
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I suggested disconnecting the F (field) wire because it can be "hot" with the generator/alternator output voltage. If the other end is not connected to anything and is well taped, it won't matter. But on general principles, I'd keep it unpowered. I would also disconnect the E terminal, so it is no longer connected to the chassis. If you don't, the cutout and regulator relays will still be powered. Probably won't hurt anything, but they still will suck up current unnecessarily.
Or, just gut the innards of the regulator, so nothing inside is connected to any of the terminals.
Or, just gut the innards of the regulator, so nothing inside is connected to any of the terminals.
Dick sent me this instruction which came with the Dyno-Alt (which I have misplaced somewhere). I am not knowledgeble but this seems different from what I am seeing above. F is disconnected as above but E has a lead coming off of it. Since the instructions do not call for any internal "shunts" or disconnects I am not sure how this translates to the above methods. I don't see me going back to a generator but I suppose this method is more reversible. I am fairly confused now. Bruce
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I get that it's function is not needed anymore. I do want the box mounted for looks. Obviously all the above work. So I will just pick one. The great Randall was never wrong so I will use the picture that David posted of his recommendation above to do the modification. Bruce
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Actually, I think that the picture in Bammons' post should be OK. As long as the D and F are not connected, you should be OK. Or, you could bridge the A and A1 as in David's picture, but I would not connect it to the D terminal. That would prevent powering the existing regulator's coils.