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AH 3000 rear disc brake conversion

I just got my 100-6 back and did discs all around. Jim Boffo at Boffo Motors in New Brighton PA did a great job. He may be able to provide some suggestions. No scuttle shake is heaven. Good luck!
 
I just got my 100-6 back and did discs all around. Jim Boffo at Boffo Motors in New Brighton PA did a great job. He may be able to provide some suggestions. No scuttle shake is heaven. Good luck!

It's remarkable that Boffo Motors(http://www.boffo-motors.com/) is still in business! My Healey(67 BJ8-Golden Beige) which I purchased new from them and serviced many years by Jim and crew. He was a excellent mechanic and raced Minis on weekends. Curious as to how you chose them?

WD
 
I just got my 100-6 back and did discs all around. Jim Boffo at Boffo Motors in New Brighton PA did a great job. He may be able to provide some suggestions. No scuttle shake is heaven. Good luck!

That's great - the 100-6 was the only Healey model where 4-wheel disc brakes were offered as an option.
 
Steve--

I'm very interested in learning about Richard's method of balancing front/rear braking effort. Please tell me how to get this info.

I already have a Summit flow restrictor valve installed in the line going to the rear drum brakes. It will adjust the flow to the rears from 100% down to 60%, or any place in between.
Am I correct in assuming that it will serve the same purpose as a valve that balances flow between front and rear lines?
 
Steve--

I'm very interested in learning about Richard's method of balancing front/rear braking effort. Please tell me how to get this info.

I already have a Summit flow restrictor valve installed in the line going to the rear drum brakes. It will adjust the flow to the rears from 100% down to 60%, or any place in between.
Am I correct in assuming that it will serve the same purpose as a valve that balances flow between front and rear lines?

Here's the method of adjusting a proportioning valve:
Method was suggested with the car on jackstands:
to have an assistant lightly gradually apply the brakes while you hand-turn a front and back wheel.
Start with 7 turns down (from wide open) on adjuster; adjust to the point where front brakes just locked and rears braking but still moveable.

If your Summit valve looks like this, that's your answer:

screenshot.1986.jpg
 
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FWIW ... regarding the front brakes...I recently bought a Fosseway disc kit which has vented rotors and 4 piston aluminum calipers. This is the first kit I have seen that has vented rotors for Austin Healey's .... there may be another that I'm not aware of but I couldn't find one ... the Fosseway components are beautifully made. The brake experts that I communicated with told me that the "vented rotors" were a huge improvement over solid rotors. These will be going on my current BJ7 project car. Fosseway brakes S50 1713.jpg
 
I would like to add something more about dialing in the proportioning valve setting. My jack stand method is only to make the initial setting. The next step is to road test the car and use the brakes hard, multiple times, to make sure the fronts lock up before the rears. I would also like to comment about Steve's brackets to gain additional leverage at the hand brake bell crank and at the same time lessen the length of throw of the handle. Excellent idea. On the other hand, DW's instructions for a rear disc brake conversion describe a method to shorten the arm that the hand brake cable connects to. This will also minimize the throw of the hand brake arm but it requires more force to pull the handle to set the brake.
 
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