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1500 - water pump kaput

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bigjones

bigjones

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There doesn't appear to be enough room to pull the water pump off the studs.

Does the radiator need to come out?

Is this a simple R&R?

Thanks for any advice.

Cheers!
 
Rad comes out but after that very easy swap - BTW when you have your rad out.

1. get it cleaned

2. get a drain cock installed
 
JP,

Thanks for the confirmation that the rad has to come out.
I hear you on getting it cleaned out and especially on getting a drain installed!

Cheers!
 
I recall not having to remove my radiator to replace my water pump on my '79 Midget. Although, I see the Haynes manual says radiator needs to be removed. I can't recall for sure, but I may have first removed the fan guard and fan.
 
bwm,

Thanks for the comment.

I'm planning on tackling the job tomorrow - so I'll find out.
Probably take out the radiator anyway and replace the timing cover seal, gasket and chain tensioner - it's leaking some oil down there and I've been meaning on doing it for a while.

Cheers!
 
bigjones said:
bwm,

Thanks for the comment.

I'm planning on tackling the job tomorrow - so I'll find out.
Probably take out the radiator anyway and replace the timing cover seal, gasket and chain tensioner - it's leaking some oil down there and I've been meaning on doing it for a while.

Cheers!
Click to expand...

You're gonna have to pull the rack or raise the motor to get at that ridiculously large crank pulley nut.
 
you don't need to pull the crank pulley nut - just the bolts on the water pump. I had to replace mine at the beginning of the season and I had to pull the rad (and straighten the fins I bent trying to remove it without removing the rad)
 
JP,

I think Kellysguy means that if you remove the timing chain cover (to replace the oil seal, for example) you need to remove the crank nut - no need of course, if you are just replacing the water pump.

Had not realized there would be an obstruction - thanks for pointing that out Kellysguy. Let me read up on pulling the rack - or the possibilty of loosening the motor mounts and raising the engine.

BTW, standing in front of the car, the engine spins clock-wise, is that correct?
(One way of removing the nut is to position the breaker bar on the concrete and hit the starter).

Cheers!
 
I always place the breaker bar against the car. I am afraid that if I put it on the ground the car could leap off its jack stands and ka-bamm!
 
I have an impact so it's not a problem. The problem is the $30 socket to get that stupid 6" diameter nut off.


That nut was the deciding factor in me pulling the engine. I'f I break the mounts loose and the radiator is already out, might as well drop the sucker on the floor. Did rod,main thrust and rings while it was out too. Glad I did.
 
Kellysguy,

Well, I've already done the rod, main and thrust washers from below the car a while back. I'd like to do the rings but if so I'd definitely want the flat top pistons while I was at it.

We had this discusson before about engine removal :laugh: and it's not on the cards.

Just seen that nut and you are right - it is a monster! Might not even have something in the 3/4" HF socket set for it.

Still trying to get the radiator out - doesn't want to come out for some reason. Haynes says it comes out with the shroud but there is something holding it. Probably need to unscrew the bolts that can be accessed after removing the rubber plugs, right? Just looking at it, it would seem that they can be left attached but maybe not.

Will report back.

PS. OK, undone those 4 bolts and the radiator is out.
 
I can't remember what size the nut is actually, but a 1 7/8" works a treat. That should be in your HF set.

AND... you can do the rings/pistons without pulling the motor. I am about to do it myself.
 
Morris said:
I can't remember what size the nut is actually, but a 1 7/8" works a treat. That should be in your HF set.

AND... you can do the rings/pistons without pulling the motor. I am about to do it myself.
Click to expand...

You can, that's how we did it at Saturn but the job is allot cleaner if you pull it out and compleltly disassemble it. You gotta flush all the honing stone bits out and it all goes down on your crank and in your mains.

I felt the same way about the flat tops, but I couldn't find any and went back with my old ones. Either way you'll be happy you did the rings now, trust me.
 
Morris,

Thanks for the reply.

Let me ponder that nut situation - I've got the seal, gasket, tensioner but I might just learn to live with the oil leak - ha!

Yeah, next time I have the pan off (which hopefully is never) I'll consider the rings/pistons. Remember my last experience with cylinder heads was not good and I'm appreciating more the "leave well enough alone" aspect rather than the "while you are at it" :laugh:

Cheers!
 
Fix the leak, it'll get worse and you'll kick yourself. TRUST ME !!!!
 
OK, water pump out.

It is made up of three units:
pump, pulley and "clutch".
Unfortunately, my gear puller isn't big enough to get around the "clutch".

Should I take the assembly and the new water pump and "tolerance ring" to my machine shop and let them have at it or should I just get myself down to Harbor Freight and get a bigger puller. Appreciate words of wisdom from those who have BTDT.

Cheers!

PS Thanks for the link to BPNW, Morris.

Just checked my press - it also is too small to press in that tensioner - not sure if I trust myself hammering the thing in.
 
I've done the 1500 water pump before--I got the clutch off by hammering. As I recall, it was just a matter of putting the pump face-down on a bit of carpet, and tapping the clutch from the backside. It was a longish process of tap-spin 120 degrees-tap-spin-tap-spin, not too hard, over and over until it worked itself off. Putting the new clutch on, I just tap-tap-tap-tapped on a wood block right over the shaft. Not the approved method, but I was desperate--and it happened to work for me.
 
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