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Tri-Carb Project

Are you using Pertronix?
No points or condenser. I have a Lumenition kit on order, but won’t get that until I go to the UK in September.
 
Well, check your dwell. An overheating coil can be caused by too much dwell, but your coil could be defective. I heard Lucas 'sports coils' had issues a while back.
 
Parts arrived at my friends place in the UK .
Electronic ignition to be installed on my return to Canada later this year .
 

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The old school way of setting the timing is to do it on the road, advancing the timing slowly till it starts pinking,
then back the dizzy off until the pinking stops, not all engines work best at the manufacturers settings,
This is how modern engines work now, the ECU is constantly advancing ignition timing until the knock sensor detects pinking
then backs the timing off, then starts to increase the timing again,
 
So I’ve been on a few local trips; nothing too far, just getting used to driving a side shift and getting more confident with the car.

I was at a small local car show and got chatting with a keen photographer guy who was using a 70s box-type camera with real film in it who was taking pics of my car. He also develops them himself. Here’s a couple that he sent me. They are B&W but quite striking.
 

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The fix for the running issue was a carburation problem , it’s solved now , car runs well but has a gearbox issue which means I think the gearbox is coming out over the winter . If you’re cruising at say 60mph and have your hand resting on the gearshift . When you take your foot off the gas you can feel the rear axle unwind as the speed drops and if you don’t hold down slightly on the shifter it kicks out of gear .
I only did a visual on the gearbox when I restored the car it all looked good inside . Now I’m thinking the interlocks for the gears are either worn out or the interlock balls are not in place .
It sounds fine you just have to keep a hand on the gearshift with gentle pressure when you decelerate .
Winter job for me .
 

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The fix for the running issue was a carburation problem , it’s solved now , car runs well but has a gearbox issue which means I think the gearbox is coming out over the winter . If you’re cruising at say 60mph and have your hand resting on the gearshift . When you take your foot off the gas you can feel the rear axle unwind as the speed drops and if you don’t hold down slightly on the shifter it kicks out of gear .
I only did a visual on the gearbox when I restored the car it all looked good inside . Now I’m thinking the interlocks for the gears are either worn out or the interlock balls are not in place .
It sounds fine you just have to keep a hand on the gearshift with gentle pressure when you decelerate .
Winter job for me .
I'm jealous that you are at the obligatory debugging stage.... IMHO an unavoidable stage in all nut/bolt rebuilds. I hope to be at this time next year!
Much to do ... off to the shop!! Steve
 

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The fix for the running issue was a carburation problem , it’s solved now , car runs well but has a gearbox issue which means I think the gearbox is coming out over the winter . If you’re cruising at say 60mph and have your hand resting on the gearshift . When you take your foot off the gas you can feel the rear axle unwind as the speed drops and if you don’t hold down slightly on the shifter it kicks out of gear .
I only did a visual on the gearbox when I restored the car it all looked good inside . Now I’m thinking the interlocks for the gears are either worn out or the interlock balls are not in place .
It sounds fine you just have to keep a hand on the gearshift with gentle pressure when you decelerate .
Winter job for me .
 
Another couple of the B&W pics sent to me by the same photographer as the previously posted ones .
 

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Still tweaking timing and carbs but getting close to running as I want . Going to live with the gearbox issue till off season .
The car does get well admired at car shows .
Im getting better at taking pics of it too .Pity I cut off the rear bit of the fender on this one .
 

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Look what arrived in the mail today . Four page article inside on her journey from the scrap yard gate to how she is today .
Thats a lot of scraped knuckles and dirty fingernails there .
I wonder what the original owner would think ?
 

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Well, having fixed my gearbox woes over the winter with it jumping out of gear and now having driven the car more, installed my Lumenition electronic ignition and got the car running much better, I moved onto other stuff.

I haven’t been able to convince the local authorities to pave all the roads I drive on bowling-green smooth, so I had to go for more ground clearance. Seeing as my car has a Jule frame, the frame rails are box sections with no standing seam in the way, and they are also taller so the oil sump doesn’t extend below the frame rails. It’s about 1/4” higher than the base of the frame. The alloy sump guard I was using from AH Spares is meant for a standard Healey frame, so it is made with a slight U shape to clear the standing seams and the sump.

I don’t want to raise the car as I like the aggressive stance and the way the wheels look in the wheel arches by being lowered. So, using my barbecue as a heat source and after a good round of heating, beating, pressing and squeezing followed by some annealing, my alloy sump guard is now flat and fastened to the main frame rails directly underneath with threaded inserts installed in the rails. Gained myself about 3/4-7/8” in ground clearance. Gave it a good buffing to remove some of the battle scars a bit, and re-clear coated it.

I need some more 1/4x20 nutserts to finish it, but it will have 8 bolts in eventually to hold it securely to the frame rails.
 

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Looks great ....Well done!

My new tri-carb race motor for the Healey World Challenge, > Healey World Challenge - Register Now! < is complete and dyno tested with great performance. Results will be available to those who visit my paddock at Road America, Elkhart Lake, WI September 13-15.


Springer Egine Dyno - Eugene, Oregon.jpg

Springer Engine Dyno Motor 2.jpg
 
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