Concours

[John Turney]

I can help with #8:

 

[LAW75]

I think the best way to help you find some of your answers would be to have a BJ8 Parts Book and a copy of the Bolt/Screw codes that identify the length n finish of all the screws and bolts. I did that when I was putting my BJ8 back together and it saved me a lot of grief and my Healey is NOT a 100% Concours car by ant means with al, of the improvements that I made to it including a Jule Frame.

Yes. I ordered the book 10 days ago. The pdf on the internet is not as helpful. I have the BJ8 Bolt/Screw chart/codes and have studied them.

 

[BobHaskell]

An online version from John New LBC digital

 

[Editor_Reid]

Hello again Reid.

Thanks for your inquiry, but I am out of band width now and for the next 2+ weeks. I'll forward your list to Sean Johnson. I don't know how much time and effort he has to spare, but he's an expert professional restorer. Most have probably never heard of him, but he's in Washington state and his work is consistently superb. Here's his email for direct contact: healey@communitynet.org

Good luck!

 

[Editor_Reid]

Hello again Reid. Took and implemented all your direction and things are going well. More issues have come up and would again, appreciate your sage advice, if you would pretty please...(I have read, many times, the '21 and '22 Concours Guidelines and do not ? believe the questions below are covered, although I could have missed it or not have a clear understanding of that portion)

OK, here are responses from Sean Johnson, Healey (and other cars) restorer and Concours Registry member and frequent judge:

1. Are the nuts on the two bolts that fasten the door stops, welded on the other/inner side? If not, how to change those bolts to get up to correctness?

The nuts on the door hinge pillar are “weld nuts” permanently welded to the part. You could replace them, but the fender (and door) would have to be removed. Welding new ones on would obviously burn the paint off

2. Do the bolts that fasten to the bump box (rear wheel wells) have washers under the head? Flat? Lock? And, I assume the nuts on the other side are welded in position?

Yes, washer and lockwashers. Nuts are “weldnuts” on the wheelarch. There are welded studs on the seat shelf.

3. Are door strikers polished gloss finish? If not, what would they be? Mine are a dull metal.

Zinc plated.

4. Is the buckle that is attached to the leather strap that keeps the spare tire in place, completely black gloss or just the "rolling" piece on the top of the buckle?

Completely gloss black.

5. If I do not have the red battery switch paper tag, will I get a point reduction? If so, any suggestions on where I might obtain? Tried the usual Moss, AH Spares, ebay.

I might have a battery tag. I don’t think they are reproduced anymore. It’s a discretionary deduction. Not more than a ½ point.

6. Which way (head in or out) does the 4 bolts that attach the bonnet to their hinges go?

People have been arguing about this forever! I always put the nuts inboard and have never been called out for it.

7. On my dangling strap (about 1' thick by 7" long) problem, attached to the front part of my hood cover *when in down position". My research indicated that it must have a tenax/snap set up where the tenax is fastened to the inside back wall so that the strap will pull the cover forward when the top cover is on. But, the tenax appears to have a bolt shaft and not a screw to fasten. Is there hiding somewhere in the wall (and therefore under the trim) a pre-drilled hole the tenax goes into? How do I fasten the studs?

The Tenax studs in the rear panel and machine thread with a 10-32 nut (5/16AF).

8. The Guidelines refer to two rubber buffers fastened with split rivets and washers, attached to the outer rear edge of each of the front inner wheel arches. I looked there and cant fathom what and where. Any help?

These buffers are the same as the ones for the hood (bonnet). You’ll see a couple of holes on the inner wheelarch panel. One is about 3” from the boom [I suspect he meant "bottom"] and the other about 9” above that. They’re meant to keep the fender from hitting the inner wheelarch. They were installed before the car was painted, so they get painted.

Well, that is it for me. Your advice and any colonoscopy humor would be appreciated. Thanks.

What's the difference between a colonoscopy and a getting your Healey judged by the Concours Committee? You get to sleep through the colonoscopy!

 

[grimes6]

Hello again Reid. Took and implemented all your direction and things are going well. More issues have come up and would again, appreciate your sage advice, if you would pretty please...(I have read, many times, the '21 and '22 Concours Guidelines and do not ? believe the questions below are covered, although I could have missed it or not have a clear understanding of that portion)

1. Are the nuts on the two bolts that fasten the door stops, welded on the other/inner side? If not, how to change those bolts to get up to correctness?

2. Do the bolts that fasten to the bump box (rear wheel wells) have washers under the head? Flat? Lock? And, I assume the nuts on the other side are welded in position?

3. Are door strikers polished gloss finish? If not, what would they be? Mine are a dull metal.

4. Is the buckle that is attached to the leather strap that keeps the spare tire in place, completely black gloss or just the "rolling" piece on the top of the buckle?

5. If I do not have the red battery switch paper tag, will I get a point reduction? If so, any suggestions on where I might obtain? Tried the usual Moss, AH Spares, ebay.

6. Which way (head in or out) does the 4 bolts that attach the bonnet to their hinges go?

7. On my dangling strap (about 1' thick by 7" long) problem, attached to the front part of my hood cover *when in down position". My research indicated that it must have a tenax/snap set up where the tenax is fastened to the inside back wall so that the strap will pull the cover forward when the top cover is on. But, the tenax appears to have a bolt shaft and not a screw to fasten. Is there hiding somewhere in the wall (and therefore under the trim) a pre-drilled hole the tenax goes into? How do I fasten the studs?

8. The Guidelines refer to two rubber buffers fastened with split rivets and washers, attached to the outer rear edge of each of the front inner wheel arches. I looked there and cant fathom what and where. Any help?

Well, that is it for me. Your advice and any colonoscopy humor would be appreciated. Thanks

This is a site which will be helpful, > Service Parts Lists - Austin Healey 3000 (Series BJ7 and BJ8) <

Regards,
Greg

 

[bighealeysource]

Hey Law75,
Great replies from everyone and Reid is spot on about the judging you'll get at Hilton Head versus a Healey Concours judging ! I've had
my 100M at Hilton Head three times and will be back this fall for the 4th time. Look forward to coming and saying hello. The judges at Hilton Head will typically have some good knowledge about Healey's but may not be true experts. Hardest judge I ever had was a Jaguar guy and
he tried to pick me apart on things he thought were not proper for a Healey but quite honestly, he was incorrect. Don't be afraid to
tell a judge he or she is wrong on something you know is correct. Make sure everything works like lights, turn signals, horn. Make sure
your spare tire matches the other four on the ground - got dinged on that one once. Like Reid's suggestion about having a binder on
the restoration. May not look at it but nice to have. Think you're driving yours to the show as judges seem to appreciate that versus the
ones brought in on a trailer. But main thing is have fun, Hilton Head really does a nice job for those showing their cars with the light
breakfast and then lunch provided in a separate area from the crowds.
See you there,
Mike