• Hi Guest!
    You can help ensure that British Car Forum (BCF) continues to provide a great place to engage in the British car hobby! If you find BCF a beneficial community, please consider supporting our efforts with a subscription.
    There are some perks with a member upgrade!
    **Upgrade Now**
    (PS: Subscribers don't see this gawd-aweful banner
Tips
Tips

Healey 3000 MKII BT7 restomod Build Thread

Share this page

bighealeysource said:
Hey,
Don't know how I missed this thread but think you are doing a great job on bringing this tri-carb back to life ! Glad to see you're cutting down the sport seats and think they will look pretty good when done as about same height as original but obviously far more comfortable. The taller original style would make your Healey look similar to the old replica kit cars still out there and don't think you would want that, at least that's my humble opinion. One thing I might suggest is sticking with the original dash versus a newer style. It's a classic shape ! Like the other upgrades you're doing and wonder have you decided if you're sticking with the three SU's or going with something more modern ? Know there are several folks on the forum who use some of the more modern carbs out there, even fuel injection. As to the side shift which I have on my 100M, you do have to be more precise in your shifting as not like an MGB gearbox where you can shift into each gear with barely moving your arm. Also when shifting into first or reverse, try to get all the inner bits stopped as first and reverse are square cut gears and easy to crunch if you shift into either one quickly. You'll get used to it pretty quickly. Good luck and look forward to seeing more pictures and progress.
Regards
Mike
Click to expand...

Thanks for the support! I am going to keep the original dash but plan on polishing up the alloy as opposed to the original vinyl wrap.

I think I am going to do the conversion to a modern toyota trans. I will still have the original gearbox but since I am not doing a original resto i figured let me but in a more more reliable/stronger trans.

Haven't tackled the carbs yet as I have plenty of time. Right now I am tackling the rack & pinion conversion and getting my roll bar designed and built.
 
Healey_Z said:
Seat fits like a glove. Nicely done.
Click to expand...


I ran into some issues. My original plan was to just bolt them through but where I need to mount the rears was right over the fram rail. I did not want to open them up from the bottom and wanted a bit more rigidity so I took some 1/8 plate 2" by 3" and welded nuts to the plate and the plates to the floor. Makes it easier since I do not need to get under the car to remove the seats.

Once I figured that out I welded the plates in, then realized that I had to use allen key bolts to fit inside the frame rails. Not realizing that they were grade 8 and the nuts i used were grade 5 hard wear... they quickly stripped, I had to cut the plates out, cut the bolts off and re weld grade 8 nuts and install the plates all over.

Then I realized the rails were 1 click off so they were tweaked... had to then move the 2 front plates. I also had to notch out the angled floor that goes above the springs to make room for the slider on that side.

My 1 day job turned into a month with running out of Mig gas and wire... Murphy's Law!

20150115_154430.jpg20150115_154459.jpg
 
Jerry said:
Early in this thread you mentioned Mikuni Carbs. I tried a single on my Austin Mini. Even though the carbs have lots of adjustments, there was such a dead spot at 1/4 throttle, I gave up.
Click to expand...
Hi Jerry,
Did you try adjusting the height of the needle or using a richer needle?
 
I to have a Jule frame. I am very pleased that I had Marty fit the body panels for me. I've heard nightmare stories about that.
You might speak with Marty about his leaf springs. He has some designed to match his frame. You also might cover wire, pipe routing, seat mounts, etc... There are no holes to mount those things.
 
Lots of needles , lots of jet changes. It only allowed slow push on accellerator or it bogged down till after 3500 rpm. A/f said it was ok, but something was not right.
The tone of the engine with a Mikuni is more like a motorcycle, putting the twin SU on deepened the tone and improved the power. I tuned the Mikuni for 3 months and then consulted a motorcycle guy. He suggested some changes and even that did not work. So I sold that carb and bought the SUs. Twins are bragging rights anyway.
Jerry
 
Well Jerry, sorry to hear they didn't work out for you. For the limited time I drove my Healey with 3 HSR42s, I had no flat spots. Didn't take to full throttle because the engine was freshly built though.
 
RestoreThemAll said:
I to have a Jule frame. I am very pleased that I had Marty fit the body panels for me. I've heard nightmare stories about that.
You might speak with Marty about his leaf springs. He has some designed to match his frame. You also might cover wire, pipe routing, seat mounts, etc... There are no holes to mount those things.
Click to expand...

I spoke with marty about the springs. Not sure what you are referring to about pipe/wire routing?
 
There are multiple holes, of different sizes, on original Healey frames for clips that hold the brake pipes, wiring harness and fuel lines. Also holes in the floor pans for seat slides and belts. None of these holes are present in new frames or inner body panels.
 
Back
Top