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Healey 3000 MKII BT7 restomod Build Thread

Superstructure.... My superstructure is in good shape but Marty is going to clean it all up and I will get the fulls chassis back in april.

I think im going to fit the body first then start to work on other areas... anyone have a good game plan?
 
Superstructure.... My superstructure is in good shape but Marty is going to clean it all up and I will get the fulls chassis back in april.

I think im going to fit the body first then start to work on other areas... anyone have a good game plan?


Once the superstructure is returned in epoxy primer .
Fit all outer body panels and do 90% of the skim filler and priming etc .
Remove all the outer body
Paint and finish superstructure
Turn the super structure into a full rolling chassis , suspension , drive line, instruments , brakes , hydrualics etc .
Finish paint all the interior non seen surfaces of the body panels and joining edges of the panels , wings doors , shrouds etc .
Refit all the outer body and then either send it to the paint shop for finish paint or mask everything off and do it yourself .
Do all the trim interior , and shiny stuff .
Drive it like ya stole it :eagerness::eagerness::cool-new:
 
Superstructure.... My superstructure is in good shape but Marty is going to clean it all up and I will get the fulls chassis back in april.

I think im going to fit the body first then start to work on other areas... anyone have a good game plan?

Yep, I'm starting this week to strip mine down.

John
 
Superstructure.... My superstructure is in good shape but Marty is going to clean it all up and I will get the fulls chassis back in april.

I think im going to fit the body first then start to work on other areas... anyone have a good game plan?
When I got my Jule frame back the panels were hung with respect to the "swag" line. When you see that lined up and how far off the other panels are you may come up with your own game plan on where to start. My skill level dictated "let the body shop do this". Even when you have all the panels lined up and take them off to do other work they probably will be off again the next time you go to install them. I had Marty paint my super-structure and the fenders and doors came back wiped down with WD-40. When everything is lined up you might want to drill 1/8" holes in the door hinges, top and bottom ones, so that the next time its a lot easier to line them up.

Attached is a couple photos of my car being picked up and then delivered back to me by Marty.

I could go on and on but hopefully this helps. There's other areas that you will need to know on assembly but lets concentrate on getting started first.
 

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I'm just starting my own project to get my wife's BT7 Tri-Carb back on the road. It's been sitting for 10 years. It was running then, but it needs a carb(s) rebuild. I have a problem that probably has a simple solution. How did you get off the bottom nut that mounts the 3rd carb (nearest firewall) to the manifold? I can't seem to get a socket or wrench on it because there is no room around it to get a tool in there. Do I have to disassemble the carb in place in order to give me room? That doesn't seem like a reasonable solution. I've even thought of cutting a wrench in half in order to get it in the tight space, but then there would be no leverage. Kinda' stumped???? Would appreciate your advise. Thanx.
 
Go to a parts house or maybe Sears and buy a stuby ratchet socket set. I think that will let you get to it.
 
I'm just starting my own project to get my wife's BT7 Tri-Carb back on the road. It's been sitting for 10 years. It was running then, but it needs a carb(s) rebuild. I have a problem that probably has a simple solution. How did you get off the bottom nut that mounts the 3rd carb (nearest firewall) to the manifold? I can't seem to get a socket or wrench on it because there is no room around it to get a tool in there. Do I have to disassemble the carb in place in order to give me room? That doesn't seem like a reasonable solution. I've even thought of cutting a wrench in half in order to get it in the tight space, but then there would be no leverage. Kinda' stumped???? Would appreciate your advise. Thanx.

To get to the bottom nut I bought a cheap wrench and bent it into an "L" shape The short part of the "L" was just long enough to go from the nut and bring the long part of the "L" under the carb. you can then use the long part of the L to get some leverage on the nut.
 
Andrea, you are an expert on your own ... Love your pictures

Its called a flexible extension
 
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BEFORE

Hey guys, been a long time since I posted. I didn't get the chassis back until September and the winter has been brutal here in NJ.

I've been doing some mods to the frame to get it finished so I can paint it. I decided I wanted to go with aftermarket seats but could not find any that fit my vision for the restomod so I decided to purchase sparce racing seats and am going to cur them down, alter the frame to how I want them and then have them reupholstered in Leather. So please don't rip my head off for the pics as the seats will not look like they sit now.

I've run into some challenges mounting them and its take much longer then I had hoped but once they are done they will be correctly installed as I want them.

Once those are in I can make the measurements and design the roll bar I will be installing.

Then I will be making the blanking plates for the rear seat and will modify the frame for the rack & pinion.
 
Here is the seated mounted. I plan to cut it down below the holes for the harness, re-shape the frame and have it wrapped in leather.

This way it will have the comfort, safety and performance of a modern sport seat but will be shorter and leather wrapped to fit my build.

20141030_171717.jpg
 
Early in this thread you mentioned Mikuni Carbs. I tried a single on my Austin Mini. Even though the carbs have lots of adjustments, there was such a dead spot at 1/4 throttle, I gave up. The car would run like a motorcycle once you got past the dead spot but there was trouble trying to get started in first gear. Changed to dual 1.5 SU carbs. Dead spot went away, more power , better driving. By the way, I put an Air/fuel meter in and could watch the fuel use at all times. Consider one of these a/f if you are going to any non stock carb.

Jerry
 
Hey,
Don't know how I missed this thread but think you are doing a great job on bringing this tri-carb back to life ! Glad to see you're cutting down the sport seats and think they will look pretty good when done as about same height as original but obviously far more comfortable. The taller original style would make your Healey look similar to the old replica kit cars still out there and don't think you would want that, at least that's my humble opinion. One thing I might suggest is sticking with the original dash versus a newer style. It's a classic shape ! Like the other upgrades you're doing and wonder have you decided if you're sticking with the three SU's or going with something more modern ? Know there are several folks on the forum who use some of the more modern carbs out there, even fuel injection. As to the side shift which I have on my 100M, you do have to be more precise in your shifting as not like an MGB gearbox where you can shift into each gear with barely moving your arm. Also when shifting into first or reverse, try to get all the inner bits stopped as first and reverse are square cut gears and easy to crunch if you shift into either one quickly. You'll get used to it pretty quickly. Good luck and look forward to seeing more pictures and progress.
Regards
Mike
 
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