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Suspension Modifications to improve Handling and Roadability?

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DerekJ said:
One of the reasons for the 'wandering' is the worm and peg steering system which is not as good as rack and pinion and has a dead spot in the straight ahead position. The new DWR steering box helps to eliminate this.
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I agree, I didn't notice it back in the sixties when I first had Healeys, but now, even with a rebuilt steering box, mine is a tad vague and imprecise at over eighty. It's also softly sprung and even with new shocks, underdamped by modern standards. Mine's a BJ7 so I believe has softer springs on the front than the BJ8.
 
RAC68 said:
With all the discussions on handling, negative camber, toe-in leaf springs and the like, today I think I found the cause of my high speed wander complaint. As mentioned, I have always felt my Healey needed constant small directional corrections when traveling at speed and this was a condition that could become very tiring during an extended drive. Today I decided it was time to pack my front wheel bearings and, after jacking the left front wheel for removal, I noticed (for the first time) excessive end play. This was a new development to me, but since I hadn't overtly checked for this condition for quite some time, could have existed for who knows how long. After detecting the end play in the left front, I immediately checked the right wheel and no end play was detected.

Since the amount of end play was quite substantial, I expected to find that the bearing had somehow deteriorated with some physical indications. However, when withdrawing the outer bearing, no obvious problem was viewed and a thick and thin shim had been previously installed. Curious, and not having any additional shims on hand, I repacked and installed the same bearings with only the thick shim, knowing it would still produce a small amount of excessive end play. With the hub nut fully tightened and a substantial portion of the original end play eliminated, I decided to test the results with a drive.

The results, as you would expect, wandering was substantially diminished and stability increased. Since end play still is not correct on the left front wheel, I have ordered a new set of bearings and full compliment of shims. I expect to get them in the very near future and will install the new parts for, hopefully, even better directional stability. This may eliminate any need to install the parts purchased to produce negative camber.

Ray (64BJ8P1)
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Not surprised. All the modifications discussed on this thread have nothing to do with a stable track at highway speeds. My car has a half inch of play in the wheel, but at speed I can let go of the wheel and track true. The steering box isn't holding the track true. It is all the suspension components and their geometry when correctly adjusted that hold the track.
 
DerekJ said:
One of the reasons for the 'wandering' is the worm and peg steering system which is not as good as rack and pinion and has a dead spot in the straight ahead position. The new DWR steering box helps to eliminate this.
Click to expand...

Have never understood why rack-and-pinion doesn't have a dead spot in the center, too. That's where all the wear is from driving straight ahead.
 
Legal Bill said:
Not surprised. All the modifications discussed on this thread have nothing to do with a stable track at highway speeds. My car has a half inch of play in the wheel, but at speed I can let go of the wheel and track true. The steering box isn't holding the track true. It is all the suspension components and their geometry when correctly adjusted that hold the track.
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True, but first you have to get the front wheels pointing in the right direction. A worn steering box makes this more difficult and so constant corrections are needed.
 
Not surprised. All the modifications discussed on this thread have nothing to do with a stable track at highway speeds. My car has a half inch of play in the wheel, but at speed I can let go of the wheel and track true. The steering box isn't holding the track true. It is all the suspension components and their geometry when correctly adjusted that hold the track.

:iagree: Mine tracks straight too, but my camber has been set so it is slightly negative when loaded.Unloaded it is close to Zero!
 
Hmm BCS website doesn't have a listing for the bearings. I gotta believe needle bearings would be better than the bronze sleeves that nobody has the reamer for.
 
bdcvg said:
Hmm BCS website doesn't have a listing for the bearings. I gotta believe needle bearings would be better than the bronze sleeves that nobody has the reamer for.
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It's not a sleeve, it's a bronze washer between a couple of steel washers, all slathered in grease. See Moss' "Front Suspension" page, items 61 & 62

I would just call BCS and ask them about the needle thrust bearings for the kingpins.
 
steveg said:
It's not a sleeve, it's a bronze washer between a couple of steel washers, all slathered in grease. See Moss' "Front Suspension" page, items 61 & 62

I would just call BCS and ask them about the needle thrust bearings for the kingpins.
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Actually I thought it was a replacement for the bronze bushings #63 & 64 that nobody has the reamer for.
 
stuntflyr said:
I asked this question and got nowhere, not one response. it must be secret.
Chris...
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If you're still interested in this topic here's what I did to my 1960 BT7:
1-Added a slightly larger diameter front sway bar with solid links and Heim Joints.
2-Get a set of Bridgestone Potenza RE 960 AS Pole Position tires or current model @ 195-65-R15
3-Add 3-4 leaves to the rear springs
4-Put a sway bar on the rear with solid links and Heim Joints

Now Go out and enjoy all those high speed corners you were afraid of.

Sway Bar-FRONT .jpg Sway Bar-REAR .jpg
 
petnatcar said:
...
3-Add 3-4 leaves to the rear springs
...
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I like your adaptation of the rear shock links for a sway bar.

I added one leaf as there's an extra 1/4" of space in the keeper loops. Don't see how there would be room for 3-4 more without a completely custom spring. You'd need longer u-bolts for the axles for starters. FrameMan I think would agree 3-4 extra leaves would make the rear end much too stiff and be tough on the frame.
FWIW the Welch (or Cape) traction bars require conversion to a side exhaust.
 
After putting 6k on the car since getting it back from Four-In-Tune, I think the only mod I would do is a slightly larger front bar. Now that I have re-learned how to drive the **** thing , it's too much fun to change too much. I found it's easy to over drive it instead of letting the car do some of the work.
 
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