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TR2/3/3A Macy,s new fan

Tropical fans show up on eBay occasionally. That is where I bought mine last year. Whenever they show up there is usually some mention on this board or the other boards.
 
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Thanx Folks for the quick replies on "Water Wetter" & "160deg" Thermostats.

"Water Wetter" is out.

Geo; "Fail Safe" basically means that at 180 or 160deg; The Thermostat is "Guaranteed" (?) to open & stay open for more coolant flow till the temp comes back down to earth???? I prefer running the car at "180deg" (Which it currently does) but really climbs up fast sitting at a light etc.

I guess the "Magic Answer" to cooling TR3`s is simply more "Air" moving which appears that "Mark Macy`s" fan will do that. There is very little "Pitch" on a stock TR3 therefore not great air movement.

I`m going to bring my car into my Brit Guru Mech. shop & get his opinion on how "Easy" it is to Install "MM" fan "WITHOUT" front apron removal!!! LOL!!!

Still waiting to hear some current exp. installing Mark`s fan without removing the front apron!!

Thanx, Russ
 
Hi Folks,

Just bumping this Thd. up to the front pg. Still no exciting exp!! Maybe; Some of you are still installing Mark M. fan with or without removing the Front Apron???

Regards, Russ
 
Russ looks like your just going to have to get in there and do it or summer will be over.
 
Russ looks like your just going to have to get in there and do it or summer will be over.

Hi There Richard,

Fortunately here in SC; I can & do drive my car from Feb - Nov. Yeah, I guess your right. It seems I`m simply going to have to answer my own question; To my surprise!!

My Brit Car Guru Mech. is on Vaca this coming wk & will be hanging around the garage so; In goes the TR3 for an evaluation of what it will take. He has lift so; That makes life a bit easier.

I`ll keep you folks posted & still looking forward to someone`s personal exp. with the "Installation" of Mark Macy`s fan.

Regards, Russ

PS: I work for a Co. based out of "Des Moines". I was there "Once" in Jan. & "NEVER" will go back during your winter season; Which seems to carry on "Way too Long"!!
 
The original tropical fans are indeed rare, but the fan used on some GT6s is very similar.

Here is an example on ebaY right now: TRIUMPH GT6 METAL ENGINE FAN BLADE

Hey Geo Hahn,

That looks pretty interesting. The fan has been "Re-Listed". I know this is probably a stupid question but can anyone tell me if that specific fan is a "Direct Bolt On" to a TR3 or TR4 Engine? Probably Not but ????????

Thanx, Russ
 
I have one on my car, and yes it is a Direct Bolt On. Watch out for the clearance between the blades and the bottom tank of the radiator. If a blade is bent it could touch the tank.
 
I have that fan on both TRs -- very effective. It was relisted with a 'best offer' option so I put in a (low) offer two days ago. Got a pretty good (also low) counter offer but before I could act someone took the buy-it-now. Hope it was you.

I was only buying it to pass it along when someone around here needed one (which is how I got mine).

I was able to install it on the TR3A with the radiator (and apron, etc) still in place.
 
There's Good & Bad news!

That fan sold but it was't me.

it is good to know that it's a direct fit!!

Thanx for Info.

Russ
 
Hi Folks,

i just noticed that I have a "7lb" Rad. Cap. All info specs out a "4lb" cap. What sort of cooling change or difference would one see?

Could it be possible if I change to a "4lb" cap; I may prolong my quick heating problem while idling?

Thanx for your input.

Russ
 
I don't think a lower # cap will have much effect on the temps you see -- but it will lower the boiling point of the coolant which means 'too hot' will come along a bit sooner.
 
...i just noticed that I have a "7lb" Rad. Cap.

Hmmm... now that I think about it -- if your radiator neck is the original deep style (needs a cap with about a 1" reach) you may have a cap that is too short. Then the effect would be about the same as no cap at all (0#).

You might compare the reach of your cap (the part that extends down into the neck of the radiator) to the depth of the radiator neck (down to the lip the rubber seal should go against). Most modern 7# caps are about 3/4" whereas original TR3 necks are more like 1".
 
Not sure what you mean by "prolong", but in general, higher pressure improves cooling. It both increases boiling point of the coolant (roughly 3F per psi, IIRC), and helps improve thermal conduction between the water and radiator tubes (as well as engine).

I'm actually running 10 psi on my TR3; which may be why I had several failures of the upper radiator hose before switching to the "heavy duty" Gates hose.
 
You might compare the reach of your cap (the part that extends down into the neck of the radiator) to the depth of the radiator neck (down to the lip the rubber seal should go against). Most modern 7# caps are about 3/4" whereas original TR3 necks are more like 1".
Question: Isn't 7 psi standard, for most TR4?

Note that it can be tough to get an accurate measurement of the cap, both because it's hard to hold the plunger square and because it always extends a bit beyond the normal seated position when the cap is removed.

What I did to verify the cap (and the cooling system in general) was to remove the heater valve and temporarily replace it with a plumbing tee with a Schrader (tire) valve and pressure gauge attached. (If I had a heater, I would have had to plug the heater line as well.) Then I could add air via the Schrader valve until the cap started letting it escape; plus leave the system pressurized to check for leaks. I've had a couple of caps that looked OK but didn't hold pressure.
 
His avatar shows a TR3A.
My point was just that long reach 7 psi caps are readily available, I think. At one time, it was the only replacement made by Stant (probably not true now, though).
 
Not sure what you mean by "prolong", but in general, higher pressure improves cooling. It both increases boiling point of the coolant (roughly 3F per psi, IIRC), and helps improve thermal conduction between the water and radiator tubes (as well as engine).

I'm actually running 10 psi on my TR3; which may be why I had several failures of the upper radiator hose before switching to the "heavy duty" Gates hose.

"GEO HAHN": I`m going to check the depth in the Radiator & also the reach of the current "7lb" cap I have.

"RANDALL": What I meant to say was; If I went from a 7lb to 4lb cap; Would that keep me idling at a lower temp a bit longer than right now. I guess not.

I spoke to my Brit Car Mech. Guru yesterday about all of this & In his opinion; 7lb vs. 4lb cap would show insignificant temp change "While Idling". We all agree that what I / We need is simply more "Air Movement" which means either an "Elec. Fan" or "Hurricane" style fan.

By the way; I "DO NOT" have a "Shroud" mounted. I wonder what that would do? "Can`t Hurt"!!

The saga continues & we`ll be back with some answers to above questions.

Thanx Again Folks,

Russ

PS: Anyone have a "GT6 Hurricane Fan" For Sale????????
PPS: Would a "TR6" Fan be a direct mount??????? I doubt it but ????????
 
The factory added the shroud to address cooling issues with the wide mouth -- so yeah, you should have a shroud. Can be mounted with the apron on but as I recall you'd need to remove the bumper guard supports and the grille. Possibly the bumper too but that's just 4 more bolts.

A TR6 fan will fit though some have to use a spacer & mount it backwards to make it work -- just depends on how you radiator and engine happen to sit. I used one for a few years but gave it away when I got another tropical fan. Worked well, just preferred the look of a factory part. The TR6 fan is readily available but will almost certainly require radiator removal,
 
By the way; I "DO NOT" have a "Shroud" mounted. I wonder what that would do? "Can`t Hurt"!!
Definitely worth a try. It helps guide fresh air into the radiator, instead of letting the hot air recirculate.
 
Well; I bought the "Shroud" & "4lb x 1" Rad. Cap from Moss yesterday.

I`m going to install my "185deg. Failsafe" Thermostat & see what this combination brings. Its a heck of alot easier than tearing the car apart & the New parts surely can`t hurt anything!!!

I should have this done hopefully by the July 4th. weekend????

Thanx for all the input.

Regards, Russ
 
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