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TR2/3/3A Macy,s new fan
- Thread starter donbmw
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toysrrus
Yoda
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Hi There Kiowa,
Just wondering if you attacked the Macy`s Fan Installation yet?
Thanx, Russ
Just wondering if you attacked the Macy`s Fan Installation yet?
Thanx, Russ
Russ-
I will try everything possible to avoid taking off the apron. Even if it means sending in my three year old daughter's skinny little arms in there.I will let you know how it goes.
Kiowa
toysrrus
Yoda
Offline
Hi Kiowa,
We`re still all waiting anxiously!!
I just wanted to bump this thd. up to Pg. 1 so I don`t have to hunt for it.
Regards, Russ
We`re still all waiting anxiously!!
I just wanted to bump this thd. up to Pg. 1 so I don`t have to hunt for it.
Regards, Russ
astults
Freshman Member
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I have a 62 TR3 B and have purchased the Macy Hurricane Fan. I have a Haynes and a Factory manual and they say that I need to remove the front apron (cowling) to do a proper job. From what I read, it doesn't seem like brain surgery to remove the front cowling and have lots of room to do the job. Am I wrong?
Allan
Allan
Tugboat
Senior Member
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Welcome astults!
You are not wrong. It is not brain surgery but the variable is the current condition of your car. There are a lot of bolts to remove and you will be on your back awhile. Each rusted bolt will increase the time required. I used to have a link to a post by Don Elliott that lays it out step by step but I can no longer find it. The last time I did it it took me less than an hour and a half. Good luck!
You are not wrong. It is not brain surgery but the variable is the current condition of your car. There are a lot of bolts to remove and you will be on your back awhile. Each rusted bolt will increase the time required. I used to have a link to a post by Don Elliott that lays it out step by step but I can no longer find it. The last time I did it it took me less than an hour and a half. Good luck!
Yeh I loosen up the fender front bolts also because they need spread over some. The bumper comes off and I usually remove the head lights (the whole bucket) so that I can get my hand in there easier and spray wd40 everywhere. Depending on the condition and or if the apron has been removed much, it is a good idea to reach down spray the back of the head light bucket bolts to get things loosened up if you go that route. I use wd40 because it melts undercoating and road tar well. The bolts are pointed Fine thread for a reason and the pointed end helps the bolt start easier back in the cage. The nut that is in the cage will often want to spin out of the cage and damage the cage, so I often put a small vise grip on the cage to stop the nut from spinning and ruining the cage. The fender bead is a challenge also. I tape it down to the fender with the weak blue tape that will not pull the paint off. Basically if you are a tr3 owner you have to jump in and do this. There are just too many things trapped in behind the apron. The removal is kinda intimidating (again depending on your experience) when done it is one of those deals were you think that was not so bad. Once the apron is off, plan on getting the radiator at least cleaned out by a quality shop. If the radiator looks good, I have them rodded out or record.
Removing the apron is a very simple job, provided the nuts-in-a-cage into which the many, many, wing bolts screw into are not rusted out. My car has been in Arizona most, if not all of its life, and, as a consequence, has no rust anywhere, so this was not a problem I encountered. I am also awaiting the results of the conversion because, if the desert is benefit on the rust and corrosion side, it is definitely not the environment for which these cars were designed. I have run a thermostatically controlled pusher electric fan in front of an alumin(i)um radiator and above the oil cooler for the last 15-20 years. I did not convert to an alternator but did convert to a Carter low-pressure electric fuel pump, so generator load is also a concern for me, as is the fact that there is some run-on after the engine is shut down which is a problem long associated, I have read here, with the electric fans.
TR3driver
Great Pumpkin - R.I.P
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The fan motor can also act like a generator. If you wire the fan directly into the ignition circuit, then turn the key off with the fan running, the spinning fan puts enough power back into the ignition circuit to keep the engine running for a few seconds. Not really harmful, the engine is actually running normally (unlike when it is 'dieseling' from combustion deposits), but annoying.
Best solution IMO is to use a relay to power the fan (which also keeps all that extra current from flowing through the ignition switch). Another solution would be to add a solid-state diode in the circuit to the fan.
Removing the apron is one of those jobs where having the right tools makes a big difference. I highly recommend having a 7/16" GearWrench, preferably the model with the offset head. Also a good idea to chase the captive threads while it is apart (I actually load a tap into the air ratchet to speed up that job); and to use some anti-seize on the threads when putting it back together.
Another tip : Leave all the bolts loose until you have all of them started. Then you can go back and tighten them, while holding the apron in alignment with the fenders (if necessary).
toysrrus
Yoda
Offline
Hi Folks,
Has anyone tried Moss`s "Water Wetter" for $20.00? If yes; Whats been your exp?
Also; Has anyone bought a "Failsafe Thermostat" from Moss? I may buy a "160deg" one pending what feedback I get here relative to my TR3 running "Reasonably" cool @ idle.
Looking for a "As simple as possible" solution without tearing the whole front end apart!!
Thanx in Advance,
Russ
Geo Hahn
Yoda
Offline
Tried it once but couldn't discern a difference. I run 25-30% antifreeze in the TRs as I live where freezing isn't a concern.
It is my understanding that all modern thermostats are designed to fail in the open position (is that what 'fail-safe' means?).
I want my engine to be at around 185° at idle and the rest of the time. In any case, the thermostat sets the lower limit, not the higher limit, i.e. if an engine gets to hot at idle it will get too hot irrespective of that thermostat is used -- just may take a bit longer to get there with a cooler thermostat.
If I read between the lines -- your engine gets hotter than you like to see at idle and, although the Macy fan might help that, you would like to avoid removing the apron to install it.
FWIW -- I installed a TR tropical fan with the radiator in place. Fiddly work with a ratcheting box wrench but not a big deal. An electric pusher can also be installed w/o removing the apron -- had that for years but tossed it once I saw how much the tropical improved things over that wimpy stock fan.
Geo Hahn
Yoda
Offline
The original tropical fans are indeed rare, but the fan used on some GT6s is very similar.
Here is an example on ebaY right now: TRIUMPH GT6 METAL ENGINE FAN BLADE
Here is an example on ebaY right now: TRIUMPH GT6 METAL ENGINE FAN BLADE