TR2/3/3A TR 3A wheel cyllinders repair or replace

[tomnanney]

Finally figured out that the rear wheel cylinders are sticking some. They have been rebuilt by me, several times over the 26 years I've owned the TR 3. I'm wondering if I should send them off to be sleeved and rebuilt or just buy new ones. Anyone had good luck with any of the new wheel cylinders available? The new ones seem to be a less expensive option?
thanks
tom

 

[TomMull]

I've had no experience with the current reproduction wheel cylinders but I wonder about "sticking". The only problem I've had with mine was leaking. There are other things that stick, parking cable and hose from frame to diff housing for example. Perhaps these have already been checked? Tom

 

[TR3driver]

hose from frame to diff housing for example.

That was my thought as well. When mine failed, I had no trouble bleeding and the rear brakes would release enough to drive the car, but still drag enough to get hot. For some odd reason, new cylinders didn't help

Another possibility, if you have the 10" brakes with support studs instead of hold-down springs, is that the studs are really badly out of adjustment and allowing the shoes to **** within the drum. I didn't notice mine dragging particularly, but there was this odd clunk every time I started off after using the brakes; which turned out to be the shoes falling back against the studs.

 

[CJD]

I rebuilt my wheel cylinders for years...till I checked the price of new. After that it was no contest. The new cylinders are just too cheap to mess with rebuilding the old, that are usually pitted anyway.

 

[DornTRoriginal]

I decided to purchase new cylinders for exactly the reasons stated; they are kinda inexpensive and quite important to have operating correctly. The problem I had was that I had to wait for a while until they were available from my supplier so I went ahead and assembled the hubs onto the car. I finally got the new cylinders however, now I am having a lot of trouble installing the spring and clips onto the back plate.

I've read the Buckeye Triumphs technical articles and reviewed other threads in the archives but I am really frustrated and I have managed to bend the spacer piece twice without getting everything correctly assembled. I'm starting to think the best solution is to take the hubs apart and assemble everything off the car, on the work bench? That means disassembly of the hub which I would like to avoid if I could.

Anyone have any suggestions, I know this is a topic that has had a fair amount of discussion in the past any worldly advise or suggestions.

 

[TR3driver]

That is one of the very few areas where the Buckeye articles are wrong. And the diagrams in practically every manual are wrong as well.

If you follow the words in the back of the TR3 Bentley, they should snap right in. I use a screwdriver for the final piece, tapping lightly on the handle, but the other two go in place with just fingers.

 

[TexasKnucklehead]

Mark Macy wrote an article in TRA national #112 on this, and I made sure to stuff it in one of my manuals in the brake section. Every time I do this, I have trouble. Trying to replicate what was previously done is usually, obviously, incorrect. I am always amazed at how something so simple to do, can be so complex if you do not know the exact procedure. -It's only a couple pieces, how could it be that difficult?

 

[2long]

Is the tr2 factory manual wrong on this point? If so, can someone summarize Macy's insight so I can annotate my manual? I wish I had a good list of any well known errors in that invaluable manual, so I could correct the few errors.

Dan

 

[TR3driver]

No, the TR2 manual isn't wrong, because it doesn't cover Girling brakes (found only on later TR3/A/B). But the diagram in the back of the TR3 version is wrong. To see the difference, compare the diagram with the text I posted above (click on the image to see a larger version).

 

[Crankshaft]

I used Randall's (Mr. Triumph) instructions two months ago and the assembly went flawlessly. I couldn't't believe how easy it went after struggling so many times

 

[DornTRoriginal]

I am not having much luck at all. What am I doing wrong? I think I followed the instructions correcty, when I try to put the retaining plate between the distance piece and the spring plate, the entire assembly of the spacer and the spring plate slides towards the handbrake lever. The retaining plate does not "tap into position", if I continue to try to get the retaining plate to "seat" the distance piece will bend and distort from the pressure. I can put the assembly together without the backplate but once I mount the wheel cylinder onto the backplate it is very, very tight and binds. I did have success putting the distance piece and the retaining piece in together, with the open ends facing towards the hand brake lever, it's snug but is not correct according to what I understand.

Are there any tricks to taking the assembly appart without damaging the distance piece? OMG this is a pain! My problem is the first picture at the top the second one is the "example" without the backplate.

 

[tomnanney]

I used Randall's (Mr. Triumph) instructions two months ago and the assembly went flawlessly. I couldn't't believe how easy it went after struggling so many times[/QUOT


Who is Randall or Mr. Triumph? can you post instructions or tell me where to find them.?

 

[Crankshaft]

Tom, See post #6 in this thread.