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TR2/3/3A I bought a TR2 project

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@CJD, I haven't noticed any cracks at the head stud threads. I'll double check when I go to the shop this afternoon to clean the bock.
That is a broken oil pan bolt. There's not enooug sticking out to get a good grip on it with vicegrips, but should be enough to weld a nut to.
Otherwise I'll drill it and get it out. Worse case scenario is a TimeSert. I've got 5/16-18 on hand if needed.
 
CJD said:
Before you go too far on the block, be sure to check the the front and rear head stud holes for cracks. Is that left rear oil pan bolt broken off...or just sealant?
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Good call on the front head stud. It's cracked on the left front. Boat anchor now.
I guess I'll try and find a TR3 enigne for the old thing.
Pretty dejected right now.
IMG_1108.jpg
 
Have a good machine shop look at it - it may be repairable.
 
billspohn said:
Have a good machine shop look at it - it may be repairable.
Click to expand...
I might try that. There are a couple near me that we use.
I highly doubt they'll want to touch it, but we'll see.
I'll sit on it for a couple of weeks at least before I do anything. I'm kinda bummed right now.
 
I've seen that sort of thing fixed by grinding a line along the outside of the break and filling with weld, and on the inside using a helicoil if necessary.
 
If you’ve not ordered the arrow rods yet.
Consider the MaXpeeding rods.
Cheaper and brilliant quality. I use them for my racing. And have done 4 seasons with no wear.


If you are using yours for competition consider JE pistons made in the US
this is a uk supplier to give an idea of the 89mm upgrade
I had to change to these after a couple of the cast new ones broke at different times
 
Hamish Racing said:
If you’ve not ordered the arrow rods yet.
Consider the MaXpeeding rods.
Cheaper and brilliant quality. I use them for my racing. And have done 4 seasons with no wear.


If you are using yours for competition consider JE pistons made in the US
this is a uk supplier to give an idea of the 89mm upgrade
I had to change to these after a couple of the cast new ones broke at different times
Click to expand...
HI Hamish,
I've looked at the MaXpeed rods. I'll definitely consider them when the time comes to put together a parts list. I was planning on getting the vast majority of the engine internals from Racetorations, so the Arrow rods were the first that came to mind. There are also Carrilo options for a good bit cheaper than the Arrow.

Since it looks like I'll have to source a new engine anyway, my plans for the end product will change drastically. It will move from more a a restoration to much more of a fast road/rally event car. I'll try and get the latest good complete engine I can to get all the upgrades incorporated over the production run. I lost the original block to the car, but it nets me a high port head, bigger carbs, and cam bearings.
 
With respect to Racetorations they are the gold plated end of the market place.
I would suggest that very few road cars warrant arrow/Carrillo rods. And forged pistons.

If you are spending ÂŁ5k on a billet crank with the intention of revving to 7500rpm then may be spend on those rods etc
But a cam to rev that high won’t be road friendly.

I just don’t want you wasting money on a spec you won’t use.

This is my engine and all I’ve had to change in 4 years of racing are to upgrade the pistons, I wouldn’t have needed to if it was just road use !!.
I can rev to 6500 on a standard balanced crank -and the light fly wheel
It’s 160bhp
And good on road and track.
Have a look at the engine and flywheel etc

And this is how I drive it.

 
Another piston source is Ross Racing in the US. When I was building my 1950 cc MGA Twin Cam race engine, no one made forged pistons, I sent Ross a sample stock piston, told them what size I wanted and they cam through with no problem.
 
Well, I sent my macine shop a picture of the crack in the block and his immediate replay was "junk". So now I'm for sure sourcing a new engine.
There was literally NOTHING worh using in the orignial engine except *maybe* the crank and oil pump after a rebuild. So it was getting all new internals anyway. I'd rather spend money up front to have as strong of an engine as possible rather than chance 70 year old connecting rods. Tappets, pushrods, rockers, and rocker shaft were never even considered to be usable. I was planning on probably keeping the rocker pedastals and that's about it from the vavle train.
If I'm having to build a new engine that's not original to the car, I'll shoot for 130 or so HP at the crank on 87.2mm pistons. But that is probably years away at this point.
I still have to get the body off the chassis and see if the frame is even worth using.
I'll keep on the lookout for a complete TR3 or 4 engine with head and at least intake manifold for a high port head and H6 carbs.
 
You found it before putting any work into it...so count that as a win! Those cracks happen when PO's remove the head and then try to lift the block by the outer studs. They cannot take the side loading.

If it is a matching block, then you can repair it as I show in this thread...


If it is NOT a matching TR2 block, then the cheaper solution is to find a replacement. They are still available relatively cheaply. You may even find them for free from someone trying to get it out of their garage.
 
Alfred sorry about your engine but as has been said it’s been spotted early.

Given what you want I would look for a late engine - TR4a era.
You’ll then benefit from proper cam bearings and the later head.
You’ll be aware of Terri Ann web site
This is here head I’d page


87mm with h6 ( longer throat stems) carbs and a warm cam - for torque or rally would suit you well.
The std tr4 engine - crank, push rods, all the rocker (valve gear) is really good
My light flywheel is a joy. As an extra
You can then run the tr6 diagram clutch. And the engine/throttle response is very quick.
Spend some of the arrow con rod money on this
triumphspecialtuning.com

Lightweight Steel Flywheel Assembly TR2-4A, Morgan +4 etc

Lightweight steel flywheel for Triumph TR2-4A and TR engined Morgans. Complete assembly, supplied ready to fit. Shop now with TriumphSpecialTuning...!!
triumphspecialtuning.com triumphspecialtuning.com



Lots of great 4 pot tr info here
 
CJD said:
You found it before putting any work into it...so count that as a win! Those cracks happen when PO's remove the head and then try to lift the block by the outer studs. They cannot take the side loading.

If it is a matching block, then you can repair it as I show in this thread...


If it is NOT a matching TR2 block, then the cheaper solution is to find a replacement. They are still available relatively cheaply. You may even find them for free from someone trying to get it out of their garage.
Click to expand...
I tried finding that thread insert and can't find them anywhere in the US anymore.
 
I reached out to their US address that Gerald provided and got nowhere:
Thank you for reaching out to us with your request.

Please note our facility in Turlock California closed in November and is no longer operational. We are no longer selling product at this time & details are not currently available when product will be offered for purchase. At present, we do not have additional details to provide and will advise once an announcement is made.

Thank you kindly for your understanding.
Click to expand...

I'm using the email that seemed to get the ball rolling from the page Tom linked. Hopefully that will get me what I need.
I'm thinking I may just get a TR3/4 engine to build no matter what for my intended driving, and if I can source this thread repair kit I'll install it and try to salvage this engien since it's the correct original engine to this car.
 
Got the same response from the email address Tom linked. They aren't currently selling product in the US and have no idea when they might offer services here again. I'll do some digging and see if another company is making the same system under a different name.
 
Well, isn't that a bummer! From what I can tell, they sold out in 2018 to a foreign company that appears to have no interest in actually selling the inserts. When I first found them, back in 2012, they advertised that many manufacturers were using them in new equipment because they were stronger than cast iron. Another great USA made idea sent overseas to die. I, too, have some messages left with them. I'll let you know if they ever get back to me. By this time the patent should have run out. I now have a hobby machine shop and am inclined to try to make the inserts myself. Unfortunately I would not be able to try it in a time frame that would be helpful for your project.
 
@CJD , I may have found a replacement TR3 block through our local Triumph club. Not sure if he has a complete engine or just a block. I'm fine either way. I need to get an engine build thread going so I can get imput from some of our gurus on what's the best way to go for a mild rally/street build that still retains as mush TR2 under the hood as I can.

Funny you mention the hobby machine shop. Reading through your threads here over the years has always giving me "This Old Tony" vibes in the absolute best possible way. If you have a go at making the insters, I'd like to see your process on making the tap. That will be a fun thing to machine and heat treat.
 
Yeah...This Old Tony got me up to speed as I learned to operate lathes and mills. He gives good info in an entertaining way!

The TR3 block is a superior block. The only reason to use a TR2 is if you plan to rebuild to original specs. The TR3 block incorporated replaceable cam bearing inserts, and the oil gallery is designed better for oil flow. Of course, the oil filter changed from a bypass system on the TR2 to a full flow filter on the TR3...although that improvement was actually incorporated in the oil filter head that bolts to the block.

I may have missed your rebuild goal...whether you plan to go back to original or just to get a fun driving TR2. If you have a TR2 block (you can tell by the lack of cam bearing inserts) and want to keep it, let me know and I will keep looking for a cracked stud hole solution. If you are just rebuilding for fun, then the replacement block will be faster, cheaper, and better overall...
 
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