Latest Bicycle Project

[tabeeR]

Don't forget to buy bicycle lights, which shine well in the dark, because you will need them. Personally, when I bought my bike so I could drive from university to work and from there to home, I bought strong and rechargeable lights from https://www.amazon.com/Vont-Rechargeable-Illumination-Resistant-Accessories/dp/B078TB9TMK because I knew it was something very necessary and useful. It was so convenient to ride a bike that I didn't even need a car. It is much healthier and more interested.

 

[PC]

Two years ago I took my Bianchi out of the basement after a 15 year sleep. I’ve been riding it since. Next up for resto is my wife’s 32 year old Panasonic bike... Yes, they actually made them.

They still do. They're just not sold in the US anymore. Their Panaracer line of tires still is, though. I ride them on my mtn bike.

They OEM'ed for other companies, too. DrEntropy's Schwinn "World Traveler" and pdplot's Schwinn Le Tour were manufactured by Panasonic.


You guys have inspired me. I've been wanting to blow the dust off my 80's vintage Italian Stallion and take it out for some retro-fun. Unfortunately, the 80's vintage Italian polymer technology in the derailleur pulleys gave up the marinara somewhere around the turn of the century. I just went over to ebay and found a set of new retrofit pulleys.

Toe straps and friction shifting here I come.

Now, if I can just find my last pair of shoes with cage pedal cleats...

​

 

[gonzo]

I love my Peugeot - all campi red label - hanging upside-down by it's 700C rims. Only criticism is its small-flange hubs - I prefer large flange. Frame constructed with Reynolds 501 tubing and rides different than aluminum etc.

 

[SaxMan]

I finished up two more ex-police bikes. One I rebuilt from the frame up, repainted it and put it back in service as a Park Ranger bike, the second was a "rat rod" job to make it a safe recreational bike. It's ugly, but it's stout.

I did a side-by-side comparison with a "modern" bike to see how an old bike held up in this article for the International Police Mountain Bike Association news: > IPMBA <

If you don't have time to read the article, the old bike held up pretty well except when it came to brakes. Modern disc brake systems on newer bicycles are better than anything we had up to their introduction on bicycles.

 

[Gliderman8]

Saxman- I’m going to be replacing the chainring gears on my Bianchi Avenue. Can you recommend a supplier or name brand to buy the gears?
When I look on Amazon there are lots of sellers but I don’t want to end up purchasing inferior quality gears that won’t last. Thanks for any suggestions you might have.

 

[PC]

.... Frame constructed with Reynolds 501 tubing and rides different than aluminum etc.

“The secret of steel has always carried with it a mystery. You must learn its riddle, Conan. You must learn its discipline. For no one — no one in this world can you trust. Not men, not women, not beasts. This you can trust.”

– Conan the Barbarian’s father (pointing to his sword)

 

[PC]

.... I’m going to be replacing the chainring gears on my Bianchi Avenue. Can you recommend a supplier or name brand to buy the gears? .....

The Avenue model was made over a number of years and came with different cranksets at different times. What brand/model of crank is on yours?

 

[Gliderman8]

The Avenue model was made over a number of years and came with different cranksets at different times. What brand/model of crank is on yours?

Here's some pics of the chainring gears. First pic shows the worn gear. Besides the Shimano Altus C10 name there is another label that's badly worn... it looks like "Dublisis" or "Dubusis".
Anybody recognize the name?

 

[PC]

I've never worked on an Altus equipped bike. But I read somewhere that some C10 cranks have riveted-on chainrings. Can't tell from the pics about yours. Are they held on with normal (allen head) chainring bolts?

Are you looking to change all the rings? Just one or two? Sometimes it's cheaper to replace a whole crankset than buy three new rings,

How many speeds is the rear cassette?

You normally can't change the granny-gear without removing the crank. Do you have a crank puller?

 

[Gliderman8]

I've never worked on an Altus equipped bike. But I read somewhere that some C10 cranks have riveted-on chainrings. Can't tell from the pics about yours. Are they held on with normal (allen head) chainring bolts?

Are you looking to change all the rings? Just one or two? Sometimes it's cheaper to replace a whole crankset than buy three new rings,

How many speeds is the rear cassette?

You normally can't change the granny-gear without removing the crank. Do you have a crank puller?

After further inspection, I think you are almost correct about the chainrings on my Altus C10 crank.... the rings appear to be spot welded (not riveted) together and not held with allen or similar screws. I was looking to replace only the middle gear but it looks like I'll have to buy the entire crankset.
The rear cassette has six gears (see pic). Also, I don't have a crank puller but of course can alway get one.

 

[SaxMan]

Saxman- I’m going to be replacing the chainring gears on my Bianchi Avenue. Can you recommend a supplier or name brand to buy the gears?
When I look on Amazon there are lots of sellers but I don’t want to end up purchasing inferior quality gears that won’t last. Thanks for any suggestions you might have.

I use Universal Cycle. Generally, you have to buy an entire cassette as opposed to replacing individual gears.

 

[SaxMan]

Here's some pics of the chainring gears. First pic shows the worn gear. Besides the Shimano Altus C10 name there is another label that's badly worn... it looks like "Dublisis" or "Dubusis".
Anybody recognize the name?

View attachment 68572 View attachment 68573

If I was a betting man, I'd say you have a square taper bottom bracket. Getting a crank puller would make that job easier. In this case, you might want to surf Ebay to see if you can find a matching crankset. It would probably end up costing you not much more than just finding an individual chain ring.

 

[Gliderman8]

It doesn’t appear that I can change only one chainring gear. There’s no Allen screws, the gears look like one complete set.

 

[PC]

I agree it's likely a square taper bottom bracket. Easy enough to check, if the end of the spindle going into the crank is square, ta-da. Other bolt-on bottom brackets have splines.

If they're substantially worn you'll probably want to change out the cassette and chain, too. They wear together. Introducing a new component to a severely worn system can cause shifting problems and accelerate wear.

 

[3798j]

Here's some pics of the chainring gears. First pic shows the worn gear. Besides the Shimano Altus C10 name there is another label that's badly worn... it looks like "Dublisis" or "Dubusis".
Anybody recognize the name?

View attachment 68572 View attachment 68573

Gliderman, your middle chainring isn't badly worn. That "missing" top of the tooth was like that when new (check attached photo of a new C10). Shimano shapes some of the teeth differently to facilitate a smoother, faster chain pickup (shift). Also, your six speed cluster isn't a cassette, it's a freewheel. Looking at your photos, it looks more like a good cleaning followed by a light oiling is all you need.

 

[Gliderman8]

Oh wow.... that’s interesting. I had no idea that the gears were manufactured that way.
I do plan on giving it a cleaning and lubricate it. Thanks very much for pointing that out!

 

[70herald]

Got my 1985 Trek 560 racing bike out several months ago and have gotten back into putting serious millage on it ( or really lots of hill climbs). After pulling everything apart for a good cleaning and greasing I replaced the front cranks with shorter crank arms and slightly lower gears (original 52/42 now I have a "compact" 50/34) Made a difference climbing all the hills around here, but could use a bit more help with the mountains...
Now I am thinking about getting a full new component set (probably Shimano 105) new wheels and of course a nice new paint job.. Riding in crowded conditions in the city, I really would like to move shifting to the handlebar like on the newer systems. It would easily be as good or better than the SCOTT aluminum I took for a test ride last week.

 

[70herald]

I agree it's likely a square taper bottom bracket. Easy enough to check, if the end of the spindle going into the crank is square, ta-da. Other bolt-on bottom brackets have splines.

If they're substantially worn you'll probably want to change out the cassette and chain, too. They wear together. Introducing a new component to a severely worn system can cause shifting problems and accelerate wear.

I suspect the freewheel probably isn't to worn. There is much more wear on the chain. Usually every 2-3 chains the freewheel (or cassette) would need replacing. Replacing the chain on time keeps the gears much happier... You do need to be careful to get the correct wide chain... specifically for 6/7 speed gears. Newer chains are a narrower and won't work well too tight on the gears and wat too loose on the front derailleur.

 

[3798j]

Thanks very much for pointing that out!

Glad I can help...it's what I do for a living...the shop just finished its 47th year serving the Harrisburg, PA area.

 

[SaxMan]

I agree it's likely a square taper bottom bracket. Easy enough to check, if the end of the spindle going into the crank is square, ta-da. Other bolt-on bottom brackets have splines.

If they're substantially worn you'll probably want to change out the cassette and chain, too. They wear together. Introducing a new component to a severely worn system can cause shifting problems and accelerate wear.

Generally, I find that replacing the cassette with the chain is a must, but the front chainrings will usually last through a number of chains. When the teeth start looking pointy on the end, that's usually when it's time to replace the front chainrings.