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Richmond VA 1960 Bugeye Bringing Miss Eva back to life.

I'm assuming you are using the rally spec springs? Like you I installed some wedges, but the springs were still a bit stiff. I resorted to removing some springs from each side to soften the ride a bit.
 
One thing I noticed is you are not using new pins in the clutch and breaks clives
i would check them close for wear and apply liberal amount of a high moly grease.
mine were shot.

oh and by the way she’s looking good!
 
One thing I noticed is you are not using new pins in the clutch and breaks clives
i would check them close for wear and apply liberal amount of a high moly grease.
mine were shot.

oh and by the way she’s looking good!
Thanks. Both were in great shape. I will grease and put this on my final checklist. That reminds me that I need to start putting one together.
 
Tonneau Cover Install

Got a chance to start installing a Tonneau cover today.
Should look better once it is sitting out in the sun.
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One more snap left to install.

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amazing!
 
You have come a long way. Very nice!
 
So what’s going to go under the bonnet after all of this work, blood, sweat, tears and $ spent?
 
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A stealthy 1275 painted green for the unsuspecting. It is a very stock motor. Polished Crank, Heads have been treated to a 3 angle valve job, hardened seats, stock guides. Stock Cam.
Bored +20. I think I will have about $2600 or so in the motor after machine shop costs, parts and labor. I went back to confirm my memory on the cost. I plan on using the stock carbs after rebuilding them. After installing the motor and trans after the brake lines are routed, it maybe the last big job on the Bugeye.



Older post from 11-15-17
Motor was pulled early January 2017. The machine shop finished it yesterday. 9-10 months later. (I should have never said I am not in a rush.) I have not seen a lot of people posting cost for rebuilding motors. I know they can run a wide range. I can only share my build. Machine Shop Costs $800, clean parts, block, head, polish crank, press pistons on rods, 3 angle valve job, hardened seats, flywheel and ring gear. I have purchased about a $1000 in parts with the cam being most expensive individual part. Reassembly will be $500. So I will be in to it for about $2600. I think if I had it balanced it would have pushed over $3000. I think I am in the range of many people when rebuilding a solid driver.

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Deck was flat and did not require any machine work.
 
Looking pretty fine there. Bugsy’s .040 over, pistons, reground fast road cam, minor porting, hardened seats, rebuilt carbs, add in headers, exhaust, gear reduction starter, new dizzy and coil new radiator, wiring harness, 5 speed, Gerard’s Adapter, quick shift and a few other goodies plus installation by a buddy as I was busy remodeling house rather than finishing Bugsy. Add it all up which I haven’t done and there’s likely $7,500 invested. Add in rebuilding front end, converting to front discs, wheels and tires, interior kit, top and tonneau, and $10k total before paint plus cost for a 1 owner CA car.

Offsetting all of those costs are the pleasure i’ve Gotten in pushing Bugsy hard on back curvy twisty back roads in OH. I can’t wait to get him to FL at the end of September so I can enjoy driving him all Winter. Yes I love my BE.
 
I'm sorry but I noticed your brake line is 1/8" out in the centre. :nonod: I think we are all disappointed in the shoddy workmanship. :rolleyes: Please abandon the project now and ship it to me so that I can do it right. :grin:

Seriously I love this car and the attention to details.
 
You had me with your first line!!! This is a tough crowd. I see some amazing work from a lot of different Sprite owners. We all have so many visions of what we want in our cars.

Bwahahaha :grin: it is an awesome vision! and being really well executed. :cheers:
 
Drive Shaft Rehab

I did not see any issues with the universal joints so I am reusing them.
I could have sand blasted it but it was quicker to wire wheel, prep and paint. I was worried the sandblasting could damage the rubber seals.
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Wire Wheel does a pretty good job and it is quick.
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Acid Etch
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Someone here will remember there’s a trick to installing the motor mounts
one on engine one on the car ..
i cant remember it’s been 12 years
I know there is a trick it keeps you from scratching things
‘little help people :wink-new:
 
Drivetrain installation starts this weekend.

Cleared out one bay with a four post lift to install the 1275 and transmission.
I am going to use the tractor's front end loader.
I am hoping without the radiator etc. I should not have to tilt the motor that much.
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It will still have to tilt a lot. HF has a cheap engine leveler. Well worth having.
 
What should have been pretty quick, was a pain until we realized that the motor mounts are specific to each side. The rubber motor mount has a tab. The tab goes to the top. That will locate the left and right with that and the 3 bolt pattern.
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