Brake Lights But No Turn Signals

[Martinld123]

Well all was great with new LED turn signal and brake lights until today. I got all of the LED's and proper resister for each side from Moss Motors and all was well for couple of weeks. Now when I turn on left or right turn signals on at steering wheel only center indicator light comes on in Dash with no flashing and stays on for either right or left but with no turn signal lights at all at rear of car. No light at all at back of car when trying to use turn signal. Same with front turn signals. My flasher unit is brand new from Moss. I hope problem is not in steering column. Will start looking tomorrow. Any ideas? Thanks Marty

 

[vette]

I haven't been following what you have been doing so I am not sure what year Healey you have. But from your avatar it looks like a 100. If so you have a stop light/ turnsignal relay on the the left from inner fender apron. I you say that you have no lights at the rear, (no running lights or anything) and you have the same at the front when you try to use your turnsignal switch at the trafficator on the steering wheel, then please know that the trafficator switch on the steering wheel switches the relay to the right or left. Look at the drawing I have attached and see that terminals 4 and 8 on the relay box are the coils that pull the relay either to the right or left. With ignition on I would check to see if I have voltage on terminal 4 if the trafficator is pushed to the left. And if I have voltage on terminal 8 if the trafficator is pushed to the right. If you do not have voltage on either 4 or 8 then it could be the trafficator or the connections at the base of the steering column (at steering box). the power for the trafficator is the green wire at the base of the steering box and it is ultimately derived at #4 terminal of the fuse block but it is sometimes run from the fuse block to the round flasher unit to terminal 'B' and then run to the bottom of the steering box. The other issue which you say is that you have no running lights either. The running lights have nothing to do with the turnsignals or the brake lights. The running lights are powered off of the Headlight switch. Original factory installation is that the headlight circuit and running lights included are not fused. But maybe you or someone else has installed an inline fuse for the running lights. they would still be powered off of the headlight switch so look for a fuse. well in spite of all this, I haven't given much thought to the blalast circuitry in the Moss LED circuits. If nothing else, remove all that stuff and go back to the stock arrangement and see if everything works. Good Luck.

 

[roscoe]

If everything was working well you probably have a bad connection or two, either associated with the work you did or it just coincidentally popped up. I'd start with the harness connections where they exit the steering column and tie in to the rest of the system. Make sure all of those pesky bullet connectors are seated firmly and clean. Then check those on the flasher relay and the lights that aren't working. I don't know how many times in my life, working on cars, helicopters and airplanes I have seen a wire connector reconnected, test properly and then fail shortly thereafter. Sometimes a wire holds up just long enough to fool you. When you go back to look at what you did give each wire a gently tug, if you have one that pulls free of it's terminal.....

 

[Jack T]

To troubleshoot the problem, first reverse everything you've changed to get back to zero. Take the resistors out of the circuits and install the old bulbs. If your signals operate properly then you can reinstall the LEDs and resistors one by one to track the problem. If they don't work, you can find the problem in the basic system. You say your flasher unit is brand new, but it isn't. It's a couple weeks old now after operating in a non-original environment.

 

[Bob_Spidell]

Pricey, and you may not use them often, but when you do you'll be glad you have them (some have 'rolled their own' by cutting slots in the tips of a cheap pair of pliers):

https://www.britishwiring.com/Tool-Snap-Connector-Tool-p/ssc1.htm

And, I put some dielectric grease in the connector before making the connection to prevent corrosion.

 

[Joe A]

Agree with Bob above. If you should purchase the crimp tool and the "push together" tool, you will be amazed at how pleasurable it is to work with the typical British wire connectors.

I also use Deoxit from Caig. One form or another of this product has been around for many years, and was used by the U.S. military under the original Cramolin name:

https://store.caig.com/s.nl/sc.2/category.188/.f

 

[John Turney]

Sounds like the flasher relay (not the big one with the eight connections, but the small one with three connections) isn't working. Those three connections are one for power in, one to the indicator light and one to the turn signals. Seems like it is stuck on the indicator light.

 

[Martinld123]

Trying to delete this post to myself. Senior moment.

 

[Martinld123]

Sounds like the flasher relay (not the big one with the eight connections, but the small one with three connections) isn't working. Those three connections are one for power in, one to the indicator light and one to the turn signals. Seems like it is stuck on the indicator light.

You were right. I gave it a couple of taps with a screwdriver handle and got it working again. It came from a Moss Motors reseller in California so hopefully I can get a replacement. It is a three connection type that I have found in automotive stores but they maybe electronic but not sure. Thanks again, Marty

 

[Martinld123]

Sounds like the flasher relay (not the big one with the eight connections, but the small one with three connections) isn't working. Those three connections are one for power in, one to the indicator light and one to the turn signals. Seems like it is stuck on the indicator light.

You were right about the flasher not being new now after a week of being in car. I gave it a couple of taps with a screwdriver handle and got it working again. It came from a Moss Motors reseller in California so hopefully I can get a replacement. It is a three connection type that I have found in automotive stores but they maybe electronic but not sure. Thanks again, Marty