Randall, my car is stock and perhaps I was being too simplistic... Not knowing Brent615's skill level, I tried to simplify the concept.
However, in great expounded,difficult to understand, laborious, nearly complete detail:
The small brown and white wire from the ammeter connects to the ignition switch, where, when the ignition is in the "on" or "run" position, the white wires (igniton, and the aforementioned promlematic always on light) connect to the battery via the ammeter and starter terminal. So, say, if the ignition switch were on and the engine not running the connection would be made thus:
Negative terminal of battery to ground to alternator via engine block and black wire from same, then brown with yellow wire to lamp to white wire to ignition switch to brown with white wire to ammeter, through ammeter to brown wire to starter lug to positive terminal of battery.
The headlight switch is fed from the ignition switch terminal that has the brown and white wire on it above (via a brown and white wire) , so it always has voltage and that current travels through the ammeter when a load is applied. For example the headlights or running lights...
The horns, glove box lamp, interior lights,ignition key warning circuit, hazards, high beam lamp (in the speedometer) and trunk light (purple wires mostly) are all powered via the brown wire from the junction block (from the battery via the starter) through the fuse block and do not pass through the ammeter. Therefore none of these loads will cause the ammeter to move when activated.
The grounds or "common" for all of these items is to the frame/body/engine with the exception of the aforementioned problematic always on light.
So, theoretically, there could be a ground along the course of the brown and yellow wire from the alternator to the light. Its not likley to be on the white wire from the ignition switch to the light, because the ground would probably cause the engine not to run because the voltage to the points would be going directly to ground, rather than through the (resistance) load of the lamp. Electricity like water wanting to take the path of least resistance would likley choose the 1-2 Ohm coil over the (guessing here, but I can measure if necessary) 10 Ohm lamp.
So, while my earlier description was not entirely precise, its functionality was accurate to BASICALLY describe what's going on.
I will be happy to provide complete colored drawings if necessary.
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