TR6 '74 TR6 no brakes

Just bought the car. There are no brakes except for the emergency brake. The pedal goes to the firewall with no resistance. Spent the entire day bleeding them and there are no leaks. None. But still no pedal resistance and it goes all the water to the firewall. I haven't taken apart the master cylinder or servo. Any ideas would be appreciated.

Sounds like the master cylinder may be shot inside. Not pushing fluid out. Any external leaks?

Thanks for the reply. No, no leaks at all. anywhere. I thought maybe the master is leaking into the servo? And from what I understand adjusting a new servo is a real pain.

Is there brake fluid in both compartments of the Master Cylinder fluid reservoir ?

Question? pumping brake pedal does it build up ? Your vac booster is most likely OK and has no fluid How far does the EM brake com up more than three clicks?? setting the Em brake can you get some pedal ??Check adj of rear brake shoes they could be set very lose and taking all the fluid. Not to question you but you got a car with no brakes when was the last time it was driven? There is a light on the dash gage yellow that lights if brass splitter to brakes has shifted to front or rear brake lines is it on. If the car has been sitting a long time replace Master cyl pistons have failed I would not just install a new Kit. The front pads ride on disk so travel little look in the rear. Madflyer

Ben find restoration project. Had been in a garage covered since 1986. No rust, body is perfect, obviously the top, tires, carpet need to be replaced and I will have to empty all fluids and change plugs, etc before starting. Engine turns freely. As I said, there is NO resistance on the brake pedal, NONE. EM works fine. 3 clicks and it locks the rear brakes. Will check the light today but with sitting for so long, who knows. I'm leaning toward the master cylinder and will order one from MOSS today. Should I do the servo at the same time to avoid the dreaded brake bleeding again? I'm a Healey guy and have 2 of them but always wanted a TR6. Will pass it on the the grandson. Thanks for the help.

Is there brake fluid in both compartments of the master cylinder reservoir ?

Yes, I know to check that. There is fluid, I have spent hours bleeding all of the bubbles out of the lines, and there is still NO resistance of the brake pedal to the firewall. NONE. and NO, there are NO leaks. NONE.

I just thought I'd ask..since sometimes the front compartment goes unnoticed.
Did the PDWA activate the BRAKE warning light ?

Replace the M/C, and have the booster reconditioned.

No, but I haven't checked the entire electrical system yet so no telling if the bulb is out or another issue. After sitting for so long, there's a lot to check out. I ordered a new MC and if that doesn't do it I'll replace the servo.

OK 1986 that is a long time. here are some things I have seen to look for. 1 - Using the front pulley check for play looking for .003 min to .005 max TR 6 thrust washers are split and can fall out crank will then slide .020 or more easy check . 2 - some of the valve springs have been under full compression for years and may even broken , One car from the East that ran poorly had a broken rocker and bent push rod as valve was froze closed. Easy check with cover off. 3 - Worsted was piston rings etched cyl wall motor started ran OK 5000 miles you can guess the rest. 4 - TR 6 have no drain plug in diff so old oil hard to change. I always wanted to add a drain plug and should have when I replaced all seals last time ( at 74 years old not my problem any more ) The Diff also has four long studs that hold it up they can brake but not fall down.
5 - Water heater shutoff at head valve will leak. 6 - steering rack gear box has a plug and ground wire for horn book says remove plug install grease fitting and pump 10 pumps. 7 - Check rear shocks car should go down and up ounce if bounce check shocks for shock oil will see leak at arm seal use MC shock oil not MOSS. 8 - Gas tank has no drain if removed clean and reseal try not to send to radiator shop but MC shops sell seal kit that cleans rust etc. and two part seal fluid, The tank is two piece and bottom seam will rust seal kit will fill same ( mine was done 25 years ago never a problem Kit $ 30.00.

If you rebuild Diff and have problems I have parts as flanges will split at keyway and cut seals.

Welcome to the TR 6 drivers club. Madflyer triumph73kill@att.net

Thanks but since I will be keeping this car and pass it on to my grandson, but then again, President Harris will surely outlaw all fossil fuels so our old classics will simply rot away. I will pull the engine/transmission and have them rebuilt. As soon as I find a good shop it'll be done. There is a place called Macy's in Ohio that I have heard by a couple of TR owners does the job right for a decent price but I'll shop around locally first. It's the brakes I have to deal with. Thanks for the help.

Try this move to Nevada I did Madflyer

FYI; the Buckeye Triumphs Club has some great light reading on the Brake System. Master & servos sections might be particularly helpful (I laughed, I cried, they became a part of me).
https://www.buckeyetriumphs.org/brakes

I used: https://brakematerialsandparts.webs.com (mentioned in the beginning of the servo section) to rebuild mine and they did a top notch job.



Rod