Bill, Shawn, Dale & All:
Thanks for the encouragement and compliments. I just got home after another 12 hour day traveling and it was nice to see the responses to my original post.
Here are my thoughts. I (we) have discussed the Ratco linkage in previous threads and I have no doubts that it is a fine quality product. After deciding to go ahead with this project, I spoke to Jeff Palya, the owner and chief rebuilder at PalTech MicroPolishing, LLC (
https://www.paltech1.com/)at great length about the potential binding issues that occur, or that can occur with this type of setup.
Jeff felt that the original flex linkage was a major contributor to that issue, so he had a solid linkage designed and I asked him to install it on mine. He also runs this on his own car as a test bed for his work. The second factor that enters in to the equation is the condition of my existing throttle linkage and bushings, which are all new and tight as a drum.
Jeff felt that under the circumstances described, the new solid linkage between the carbs and new throttle bushings in the car, that the Ratco linkage would not be necessary. I did purchase a completely refurbished and powder coated bellcrank/linkage assembly (the one that bolts under the carbs) from Jeff that has all new parts in it, so that will eliminate any sloppy play in the throttle shaft to carb(s) mechanical action.
If, for some unforeseen issue, I have binding problem, I can always add the Ratco setup later. My current twin carb setup is working perfectly and I get a full open throttle upon depressing the pedal to the floor, so I'm not too worried at this point.
Now for the tweaking and technical issues of the installation. Below are the settings as they exist on the carbs, which are now bolted to a piece of plywood to keep everything aligned. There are also instructions on what to do from there, once the carbs are bolted to the head and the actual alignment and tweaking begins.
Remove the assembly from the wood.
Install the assembly to the cylinder head. The intakes will now be aligned.
Check that the carb to carb linkage is aligned. I have the solid couplers loose, tighten once aligned.
I have the idle screws backed out so that the throttle valves are at zero angle. So once you tighten the couplers the carbs will be mechanically synchronized together.
Operate the linkage and make sure that you get a full range of motion from idle to full throttle where the throttle shaft levers all touch the stops at the same time. Adjust if needed.
If the throttle linkage binds or does not return freely then the carb throttle shafts are not aligned and are binding. If you have this situation loosen one carb from the intake manifold and align until all moves freely. Continue until all are aligned.
Connect choke cables, fuel & vacuum lines etc.
Be carefull when pushing the rubber fuel inlet hoses onto the carb inlets. I have seen very small bits of rubber hose get shaved off and make there way into the float valves and cause the valves to hang open.
Install a new fuel filter.
Fill the carb dampers with SU or ZS damper oil .
Set the idle & fast idle to suit your engine.
I have the fuel metering needles set at 1-1/2 turns CCW from full rich. This is about 1/2 of the adjustment range and a little on the rich side. A good starting point for fine tuning the mixture.
Once the engine is warm you can synchronize the carbs, use the brass trim screws to fine adjust.
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