While doing multiple projects, two of which dealt with the passenger door, I have created an issue I can't figure out which way to go with.
I had to go into work today, and will post some photo's later this afternoon, however I am in need of some basic ( I hope) information also.
I replaced the right lower hinge on the passenger door and installed new window tracks. While replacing the hinge, I braced the rear end of the door and only removed the lower hinge. Top hinge stayed in place.
After replacing the window tracks and closing the door with the window fully up, it now doesn't go behind the outer windscreen bulb seal, it wants to go out side it, or middle of it crushing it.
This lead me to believe the top of the window needed to go inboard (towards the center of the car). I used all the adjustments for the tracks and could not make a difference. As I worked with it, it also appears to contact the windscreen frame at the top upper corner of the door window to windscreen frame compressing the flange of the bulb seal more than the left side. To much in my opinion.
So I started to adjust the hinges to see if I could correct the situation. I have not been able to yet. I can make it worse, but not better without having the door fit funny. If I let the rear of the door down, the window goes into place when fully up, but the door does not align with the rest of the body.
The left door lower gap is currently about a 1/4 in from the rocker and is even. This aligns the top of the door well both front and rear with the adjoining cowl at the front and rear deck at the rear. But really aggravates the top of the door window to windscreen fit. There is no way to tilt the door window using the window tracks and winder mechanism to move the front top corner of the door window aft.
Car has everything installed but fenders, hood, and interior. It is on it's wheels. I have a hardtop sitting in place, but not bolted down tight.
Question. What baseline should I be working from or for in regards to door gaps. The fenders are off currently but available for test fitting.
Question. Is there a sequence that works best for fitting the door?
I have not messed with or moved the windscreen. However I think the right door window, although fitting(door window goes between outer and inner seal) when fully up is really to close to the windscreen at the top corner. I would not expect to seen the window compressing the outer bulb seal flange material over 3/4 of it's thickness.
I been working at this for several nights and got me flumoxed.
I had to go into work today, and will post some photo's later this afternoon, however I am in need of some basic ( I hope) information also.
I replaced the right lower hinge on the passenger door and installed new window tracks. While replacing the hinge, I braced the rear end of the door and only removed the lower hinge. Top hinge stayed in place.
After replacing the window tracks and closing the door with the window fully up, it now doesn't go behind the outer windscreen bulb seal, it wants to go out side it, or middle of it crushing it.
This lead me to believe the top of the window needed to go inboard (towards the center of the car). I used all the adjustments for the tracks and could not make a difference. As I worked with it, it also appears to contact the windscreen frame at the top upper corner of the door window to windscreen frame compressing the flange of the bulb seal more than the left side. To much in my opinion.
So I started to adjust the hinges to see if I could correct the situation. I have not been able to yet. I can make it worse, but not better without having the door fit funny. If I let the rear of the door down, the window goes into place when fully up, but the door does not align with the rest of the body.
The left door lower gap is currently about a 1/4 in from the rocker and is even. This aligns the top of the door well both front and rear with the adjoining cowl at the front and rear deck at the rear. But really aggravates the top of the door window to windscreen fit. There is no way to tilt the door window using the window tracks and winder mechanism to move the front top corner of the door window aft.
Car has everything installed but fenders, hood, and interior. It is on it's wheels. I have a hardtop sitting in place, but not bolted down tight.
Question. What baseline should I be working from or for in regards to door gaps. The fenders are off currently but available for test fitting.
Question. Is there a sequence that works best for fitting the door?
I have not messed with or moved the windscreen. However I think the right door window, although fitting(door window goes between outer and inner seal) when fully up is really to close to the windscreen at the top corner. I would not expect to seen the window compressing the outer bulb seal flange material over 3/4 of it's thickness.
I been working at this for several nights and got me flumoxed.