Stuck front brakes?

[Millrat]

Finally driving the 1962 mkii Sprite, but the front brakes are giving me fits. They will seem okay until we drive the car a mile or so and then will heat up. When i pull the drums it seems that the wheel cylinders are not bleeding off. They are adjusted all the way in. New cylinders but they sat for a long time. Do I need to throw them away or try to rebuild?

 

[JPSmit]

replace the rubber hoses. they deteriorate on the inside and lock the calipers.

 

[Millrat]

We were almost there when we started the car. My mechanic ordered the rubber lines for both front and back but the front lines were for disc brakes rather than drums. That part of the project got put to the back burner. I would guess that they restrict the flow of fluid and don't allow the shoes to retract? Thanks!

 

[JPSmit]

We were almost there when we started the car. My mechanic ordered the rubber lines for both front and back but the front lines were for disc brakes rather than drums. That part of the project got put to the back burner. I would guess that they restrict the flow of fluid and don't allow the shoes to retract? Thanks!

they do restrict. Make sure you do them all including the single hose between the rear axle and the car body.

 

[Millrat]

I did the rear one, so the front two are next. Looks to be some interesting fittings. Are they available from anyone other than the usual m ail order places?

 

[Sarastro]

It's not impossible that an ordinary parts place might have a listing, but more likely you're stuck with the usual suspects.

 

[Millrat]

Yeah, they shipped my order today. There were a few other bits and pieces so it didn't hurt as bad. The UPS driver has noticed the traffic and we had a great talk about my Sprite and his 56 Ford Pickup .

 

[dcoplan]

This is a pretty old thread but I'll chime in anyway in case it helps.

I'm having the exact same problem right now even though I replaced everything: turned the drums, new shoes, stainless steel hoses, new wheel cylinders, etc. Everything but the master cylinder because at the time it wasn't giving any problems.

Drive the car and get the brakes to seize. Jack up the front and bleed just a spurt of fluid from one of the bleeder valves. If the brakes release it's a hydraulic problem. If they don't, it's a drum problem.

I determined it was a hydraulic problem on my car and was given the following advice from a Bugeye expert as the next steps to take...

"Disconnect that return spring on the brake master pushrod and have a feel for how much play it has at the pushrod clevis pin-to-brake master pushrod - the spec is in the manual but you should be able to rattle it around with a thumb and finger. If it has some clearance, put the return spring back on and then drive it around 2-3 miles again to get the brakes to start seizing. Then, raise the bonnet and check for clearance again. If there is now no clearance, the seizing is from everything expanding due to heat. Just adjust the pushrod (shorten it) about a 1/8 to 3/16 of an inch. Test drive it again and see if that takes care of the issue."

 

[Millrat]

My troubles went away with the new hoses. The old ones were plugged tight, as in air tight. Great advice on the pushrod adjustment for the future though.