TR4/4A Rotor,caliper and Pad replacement TR4

[TR3pilot]

Hi all,

I'm learning bit by bit about my '63 TR4 wire wheel, tinkering, I guess you could call it. I'm currently working on the front brakes and have taken off the rotor,hub and splined extension. If it helps anyone out there I removed the dust cap with an easyout, broke the cotter pin, undid the nut and took the whole assembly off the stub axle in one shot. I then clamped the old rotor to a vise and separated the various parts for cleaning. I found this to be way easier than trying to separate anything whilst on the car.

However I have a few questions as regards putting things back on:

Is it possible to assemble everything off the car and put it back on the way it came off as obviously I dont want to clamp my nice shiny new rotor on my vice as I did with the old one?
Any tips to get some torque on those nuts and bolts that join the splined ext/hub/rotor whilst off the the car without doing damage to the new rotors?
I bolted the hub to the rotor but am not at all happy that it's tight enough and cant get at those bolts whilst on the car because of the dust cover, even if I could get at them how can I stop the rotor from turning whilst I try to tighten the bolts?

Whilst in place the darn dust cover is rubbing my new rotor, will the new calipers hold it back or should I bend it now whilst access it easier?

I hope I'm clear but have been known not to be

Thanks in advance

 

[alanjohnturner]

Look up the correct torque for all these bits. There is an on line workshop manual if you dont have one.

The dust-covers are not vital. Bend or remove as required.

 

[TR3driver]

If I understand you correctly, I don't think there is any practical way to install the splined adapter first. The adjustment of the nut is very important, not something you want to attempt at the bottom of a hole (the bore through the adapter). Also gonna be tough to install, bend and trim the cotter key working down that hole. It is also a good idea, when replacing the felt dust seal, to install the hub without the seal first, so you can find (and mark) the proper position for the nut without the felt giving a false reading. Then you remove the hub, set the seal into place and install the hub on top of it, so it finds it's own best position. This process is described in the TR4 workshop manual.

One way to hold the hub while you torque the adapter nuts is to wedge something between the brake pedal and the steering wheel (to hold the brakes engaged). A small child or even a wife works well, if you have one handy. I use a cheap bar clamp from HF, that I modified for use as a spreader instead of a clamp. (Drill out the rivet for the fixed jaw, turn both jaws around, insert a bolt in place of the rivet. Can be reversed if you need the clamp back.)

Another is to stack up some wood under the brake rotor and let the car down on it.

Since the dust shield mounts to the caliper bolts, I'd install the caliper and then make any adjustments required.

 

[TR3pilot]

Thanks and you did understand me correctly. I was able to recruit the lovely wife to help me out with the attachment of rotor to hub and everything went well with caliper fitment and all that...until I discovered I had ordered the wrong pads! Duh.As a result I'll have to wait until tomorrow to drive her for the first time.


However as if to cheer me up my TR3 started right up after not wishing to do so for a week! It's a disease I tell ya.

 

[TR3pilot]

Well I got the new pads in and as I was bleeding the system preping for my first drive the rear wheel cylinder started to leak :rolleye: So I got a new one from MM and installed yesterday following along here https://www.buckeyetriumphs.org/technical/Brakes/Rear/Rear.htm I didn't put the drum back on as I wanted to watch it operate but when my wife pressed the brake pedal fluid peeed out of the top of the rubber dust cover on the cylinder... I managed to catch it in a towel before it hit the new shoes I had also installed. Here's a few photos to see what I did, anybody spot my error or is it a crappy cylinder?

1st and 2nd Photo, after I'd finished installing new shoes,cylinder, and clean up adjuster
3rd photo aftermath of cylinder
4th rear shot and 5th Piston look crooked?

Thanks for any and all help. It's been 25+ years since she had a spin, but gotta be able to stop everywhere before I go anywhere

 

[alanjohnturner]

I would imagine that without he drum on the shooes have opened out far enough that the piston has been driven out of the cylinder.
Just have another go with the drum on.

Brake pipes are not great. But you know I expect.

 

[TR3pilot]

Alan,

Ty that thought was just crossing my mind over my cornflakes Yes I'm gonna do the pipes next week, just want an itsy bitsy down the street spin first. Tut tut I know

 

[TR3pilot]

I had a spare new cylinder so I threw it on and put the drum on this time, all's well. Now I can start her and stop her.. time to take her for a wee spin in the 'hood.