Hey there Guest!
Hey - did you know if you click on the title of a thread it will take you to the first unread post since you last visited that thread?
but were afraid to ask: 
STOP!! Never post your email address in open forums. Bots can "harvest" your email! If you must share your email use a Private Message or use the 
smilie in place of the real @
Pretty Please - add it to our Events forum(s) and add to the calendar! >> 
PKPoole
Senior Member
Offline
For those of you who have questioned the need for the "upgraded" rotor, here's my recent experience: I finished my latest TR3A project late last summer. Complete restoration, everything rebuilt, restored, replaced. Used a new Lucas rotor and cap in the distributor. The car has 145 miles on it. Took the car out this week to impress a visiting friend and on the way home the car stuttered and died. The top rotor plate rivet had come loose from the plastic and the plate sheared the distributor cap carbon center post. As most of us do, I carry a new rotor and cap in the trunk. Replaced both parts but the car wouldn't fire at all. Got a ride home, got my trailer and hauled back to my shop. The top rivet that came out fell to the bottom of the distributor, jammed in the flyweight mechanism and caused the entire distributor to rotate out of time. Took me a while to figure that one out. All's well now, but I'm now using the orange heavy duty rotor and improved cap. It's always something. Pat
Last edited:
A friendly reminder - be careful what links you click on here. If a link is posted by someone you don't know, or the URL looks fishy, DON'T CLICK. Spammers sometimes post links that lead to sites that can infect your computer, so be mindful what you click.