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TR2/3/3A Replacing Clutch Pedal

karls59tr

Obi Wan
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The pivot hole in the clutch pedal where it attaches to the MC fork is wallowed out causing unnecessary play. I'm ordering a new fork. I have a spare clutch pedal assembly I'd like to install to replace the worn pivot. Is replacement a straightforward job? Can I just remove the pedal shaft support bracket and cover assembly and slide the new pedal assembly on or am I going to run into problems. Anyone been there and done that and can offer tips or advice? Thx Karl
 
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Karl
I did one a few years ago. All I remember right now was I said a few choice words while I was doing it. Once you have it apart the rest is pretty straightforward. Not much help.

Marv
 

TR3driver

Great Pumpkin - R.I.P
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My recollection is that you have to remove the entire pedal assembly (the part inside the car); you can't replace just one pedal while leaving the other in place. There's a description in the workshop manual, in the brake section.

Lots of threaded fasteners that are liable to be corroded from past brake fluid leaks; and kind of awkward working under the steering wheel. But not too bad otherwise.
 

TexasKnucklehead

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View attachment 28419Here's a picture of mine apart, and as Randall says, there is more to remove than just the bolts at the end. -The lower 'cover' (bolts tach-welded in place) must be removed. The two bolts into the cross shaft were really difficult to get out, even after it was off the car.
 

Darrell_Walker

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It looks quite similar to the TR4A pedals. While you have it out, good time to clean up the shaft and lubricate. At one point my pedals both moved together.
 

tomshobby

Yoda
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I used a center-drill to make a tapered hole. Now I can use the pictured adapter to lube my pedal shaft. But like the old commercial, "a little dab will do ya"
taper_hole.JPGgrease_tip.JPG
 

Jerry

Darth Vader
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I stuck a brass rod in the hole to keep and welded up the extra part of the hole. Since the weld is harder than the rest of the pedal, it should not round out again.
Jerry
 
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