TR2/3/3A Replacing water pump pulley.....memory refresh.

[karls59tr]

I did this many years ago but have forgotten the procedure.I'm trying to help out a TR3 driver on another site who posted a picture of metal shavings all around the front cowl area. He was getting a loud knock from the pump pulley area so I'm pretty sure the keyway in the pulley has failed. I'd like to advise him further so I thought I'd check here first. Can the pulley be jimmeyed off without a 3 leg puller? Is there enough clearance between the pulley and the rad to fit a small 3 leg puller or does the rad have to be removed or maybe tilted forward (top hose removed)?

 

[charleyf]

Not seeing the picture, my best guess is that the pulley is loose on the water pump and is about to fall off. At any rate it sounds like the pump shaft (at least) is damaged beyond repair as is the pulley. Remove the two of them as one piece find any way to remove the pulley so he can retrieve the captured bolt and get a new pump and pulley.
Charley

 

[CJD]

There have been a lot of issues with the pumps and pulleys over the years. The original pulley on and original pump shaft was a slight press fit. Unfortunately, most of the repro pumps and pulleys are more of a slip fit. Even worse, most of the pulleys and pumps from different suppliers have fit issues. So...

Chances are a puller will not be necessary. If it is, it would be easiest to remove the pump to work on the assembly. In fact, that is how the manual tells you to do it...install the pulley on the bench. It is possible to remove the pulley on the engine, though, if he insists on doing it that way. Remember that one of the water pump bolts must be inserted before installing the pulley!

I recommend buying the pulley with a new pump, and both from the same supplier. Then, use the proper washers and/or spacers, so the pulley becomes locked tightly between the shaft step and nut washer. Any play causes the pulley to eventually wallow on the shaft, and like Charley pointed out, that destroys both the shaft and pulley.

And, just a thought...the most common cause of a knocking at the front of the engine is a broken camshaft chain tensioner (also a repro problem). Second is usually a loose dynamo.

 

[sp53]

Those Pulleys can be a real bear to get off the pump. I would pull the pulley and pump off together like charley suggested and go from there. If the pulley is flopping around on the shaft, then the pulley is done and the pump might be fine. What I have done in the past is get a new pulley and pump and replace them both.

I doubt a 3 legged puller would fit. If I remember correct, it was difficult just to get my hands in there to get the pump and pulley off. The pulleys will wear down if the fan belt is too tight and start to wobble, so make sure that there is some play in the fan belt about a ½ inch on the longest stretch of the belt.

Steve

 

[bobhustead]

A likely problem to be found in getting the pulley off the shaft is that the Woodruff key will have enlarged the width of the keyway in the pulley and the pulley will thus be trapped behind the key. It will be hard (I had one that was impossible) to position the pulley so the key is aligned with the original slot in the pulley.
Bob

 

[bobhustead]

And you have to make sure that the slot in the new pulley, the key, and the slot in the impeller shaft are the same width.
Bob

 

[charleyf]

Regarding the use of a three legged puller. I have used one on several pump/ pulleys. My score is about 50/50. That is I have broken the lower lip of the pulley about half of the time trying to get the pulley free. There is insufficient room underneath the lower edge of the pulley to get the jaws firmly under the pulley. So if the pulley is firmly set on the shaft the pulley is more likely to break before it comes off the shaft.
The original design for this setup is that there are two nuts and one long bolt holding the water pump on the car. Some of our predecesors have found that the long bolt can be changed out for another stud. That then makes it three nuts to remove the pump and if you replace the pump and pulley you are not forced to remove the pulley to get the bolt. I have found that the needed stud is the same as the valve cover stud. If that helps.
Charley

 

[Hamish Racing]

I had this with an ali thin belt water pump pulley. The pulley key way was wrecked. That’s it in the pics and did tap out also slot for the key way was ruined and the pulley was rocking and loose on the water pump shaft.
easiest was to take the pump off and deal with it on the bench.
new Ali pulley and a new key, bearing lock tight used.
I also swapped the bolt for a stud. This makes life a lot simpler in the future ( ensures you don’t need to touch it again !!!)
And don’t do the belt up too tight or it will go again.