rear seat pans for 100-6

[longbridgehealey]

I've finally installed all of the new panels and carpet in my 100-6, and last night I fastened in the right side rear seat pan. Here's the question - These pans have the 4 bolts that are fastened to the bottom of the seat pan, they do not screw in from the top of the seat. I do not want to place the driver's side pan in place, and put the nuts and washers on from underneath, they are impossible to get to in a road situation. The fuel pump lives directly under this seat. So, has anybody tried to hold the rear seat in place with velcro? Any other ideas?

All I've got left to do is the driver's side rear seat, armrest, seatbelts, rear inner quarter panels, seat backs for front seats, replace dimmer switch, wire in cigarette lighter (power source), tighten three mirrors, install tonneau bar brackets, sill covers, rebuild longbridge curtains, refit steering wheel and PUT IT BACK ON THE ROAD!!!!!! :banana:

Larry

 

[GregW]

??? I thought only the later cars had the threaded studs welded to the pans.

 

[longbridgehealey]

Hi Greg, I think you're right. If you look at the pics on www.healeysix.net of an original Longbridge car, they do appear to have the screws coming in from the top of the seat. My problem is that I had the seats covered in leather by Dave Gallagher of Phoenix Upholestery, and at the time I had no rear seat pans. The ones he supplied had the studs welded to the base. I didn't want to return them (should have) because of the time it took to get them done. So my choices became using them as is, or removing the studs, and trying to drill down through the leather (scares me!!) to place top entry screws. If I wasn't so paranoid about going through the leather, I'd still go that route, drill new holes for screws.
As it stands now, I've got one seat in place, and am unsure of how to attach the driver's side. Again, I'd still drill through both seats if I thought I could get away with it!

Larry

 

[AUSMHLY]

Hi Larry,

Your question, of how to hold it down. There is heavy duty Velcro available and that may work for you. I'm using it to hold a couple things under my dash. The glue is strong and so is the Velcro.

I guess you have asked yourself how correct looking you want your car to be.
If you go to any Healey car shows, someone will most likely ask you why you don't have the 4 hold down screws in the rear seats. I personally would not set myself up for those questions. But that's just me.

Have you considered going to your local car upholstery place and asking them for their advise on how to drill a hole though the leather?

If I were to do it?

1. I'd grind the studs off flat.
2. Use a punch and set a pilot hole.
3. Drill a very small hole, not going though, enough to set the punch again.
4. Punch it again. If the punch did not go though, drill a little more, till the metal is thin enough for the punch to go though.

(Maybe wrap a piece of tape as a stop mark on your drill, to set the drill depth ?)

5. Flip the pan to the front and use an exacto knife and make a small X in the leather where the punch hole is.
6. I'd then re-punch the hole from the front of the pan with a sharp tapered punch, through the X in the leather. Punch deep enough till you're screw hole size.

Again, if your not comfortable, then visit your local car upholstery shop. He may have some industrial Velcro, if you go that route.

Helpful?
Roger

 

[longbridgehealey]

Hi, Roger - I've been sitting here all morning talking myself into trying to drill the holes. I think that's the route I'm going to take, and yes, helpful!!

Larry

 

[Keoke]

OMG! Some folks just love ugly. If some one asks you why those screws are mot there just tell them CUZ they be down right UGLY!--Keoke-

BJ8's have the fuel pump under the RH rear seat pan. You see any of the owners including me running out to to drill holes in our nice leather covers to install potentially damaging screws so we can remove the seat for access to the fuel pump NO! never in your sweet life.

 

[longbridgehealey]

Maybe I could do one each way, and satisfy everybody

Seriously, I'm going to continue onward with what I've got, and try the velcro approach. If I want the screws on top, I can do that anytime - I'm working on a time line right now, and I don't want to go backwards!!

 

[Keoke]

:laugh:
Well if you be in a hurry remember, haste makes waste so just slip it in place intil you can devise a neat snap in fitting.--Keoke-

 

[longbridgehealey]

That's the plan!!

 

[AUSMHLY]

Hi Larry,

Some people want their cars to look original.
I thought you preferred to have the screw head showing, as original. (Not everyone thinks it's ugly It's how the car was made.)

If your plan is quick removal of the pan, because you think you'll need to work in that area from the top, then Velcro, magnets, snaps or spring clips (like what is used to clip door panels on) may be best for you.

If you go that route and you want it to look original with the screw heads showing, you can simply screw them into the pan.

Best of luck with your time line and decision.
Roger

 

[Keoke]

Well yes Roger, I know it was made with those UGLY screws showing. They probably had a schedule to keep and couldn't think of anything else to do. Come to think of it. it might just have been Jerry Coker's day off too. :laugh:

However, if you are building a concourse car then you have to put the ugly screws in too. But, If you are not and its your car then you can do just what you want too and leave the ugly screws out too!---Keoke- -----

 

[longbridgehealey]

Hi Roger, Hi Keoke - I didn't mean to start a debate over the differences between "proper" and visually pleasing. Both of you have given me invaluable advice over the last year or two, and I wouldn't be where I am now with the 100-6 without your help. Here's the deal on both the 100-6 and the seats. We took this car (which I've had for almost 30 years) and redid her to the best of our abilities and budget. My main goals have been to stay as close to original as possible, while doing a lot of the work ourselves. I never intended to have this be a show car She used to be, and will be again, a daily driver. So while authenticity is somewhat important to me, getting the job done takes an almost equal seat. I've worked very hard to keep the longbridge interior true to the original, but I'm no restoring expert, so there are some mistakes.

All of this being said, here's the deal on the seats. I knew when Dave sent them to me that they were not correct, but I had waited so long to get them that I decided to go with what I had. I put them on the back burner, and fabricated all of the interior panels and dash, covered them, and installed them. Then I installed the carpet (finished two nights ago), and started replacing all of the pieces I had taken off to put the panels and carpet in. So eventually I came to the rear seats last night. In went the passenger rear seat, then I got to the driver's side and OOPS! I realized we wouldn't have easy access to the fuel pump, which over the years has been an issue with this car. So there came the velcro idea. Then Roger suggested a way to put the screws in through the top, which would give us easier access, and it seemed like a pretty good idea, along with keeping the car visually closer to the original. However, all things considered, I think I'm going to continue on the way I originally intended, and mount the right seat with either clips or velcro, and see how that works out. And, going this route, I can always come back and set the screws if I decide that that is important to me.

So thanks to both of you for your suggestions, I know I changed my mind at least twice today, and you guys have been very patient with me.

Fair warning - my next questions are going to revolve around why the speedo that Nisonger just rebuilt still doesn't register the correct speed - NOT YET THOUGH!!

So again Thanks to both of you!
Larry

 

[healeynut]

Hi Greg, I think you're right. If you look at the pics on www.healeysix.net of an original Longbridge car, they do appear to have the screws coming in from the top of the seat. My problem is that I had the seats covered in leather by Dave Gallagher of Phoenix Upholestery, and at the time I had no rear seat pans. The ones he supplied had the studs welded to the base. I didn't want to return them (should have) because of the time it took to get them done.

Larry -

All you need to do is peel back the leather then drill out the studs. Restick the leather after you are done (using 3m upholstry spray adhesive). If you are still worried about doing this yourself, take it to your local upholstery shop and they should be able to take care of it for you with about 1 hour's worth of labor.

 

[GregW]

Hi Larry,
Personally, I'd shy away from the velcro. If your seat surround is leather or vinyl, it has a foam pad. The velcro's adhesive may be strong enough to rip the foam, which may ruin the look of the surround. If your surround is carpet, the velcro will make it look like a cat scratched it after a couple times taking it off.
It you go with the screws through the top of the seat, I'd suggest getting a small leather punch. Bigger than the screw but smaller than the finishing washer. Back the seat lip with a hammer in a vise and make a nice round hole in the leather and padding, then drill your hole.
My first choice would be to use the studs as intended on the seats you have and get a new fuel pump. :laugh:

 

[Keoke]

Hey Greg, also be sure en tell him to get an electronic pomp then for sure he won't need access via the seat.---Keoke-- :laugh:

 

[GregW]

Hey Keoke,
I'll try to remember to mention that. The next two days I'm pretty busy at work, so I might not get to it until the weekend. :wink:

 

[AUSMHLY]

Hey Keoke,
I'll try to remember to mention that. The next two days I'm pretty busy at work, so I might not get to it until the weekend. :wink:

I got your back Greg!
Larry, go with the electric fuel pump.

Keoke makes a good point (as he usually does) Go electric, get away from the points. (I'm electric too).

Moss sells them and they make the clicking sound.
And if your really paranoid, install a small back up electric pump (from NAPA). Then you'll have enough confidence to weld the seat pans permanently in, :banana:.

Well Larry, we're all following your thinking outside the box. Welcome to the MacGyver club!

Cheers,
Roger

 

[Keoke]

ROGER!

OK But Velding--------------------------------Keoke--

 

[longbridgehealey]

OK, it's done as far as it's going for now. Took yesterday off (my birthday) and played with the car all day. Got the armrest in, seatbelts, mounting posts for the tonneau bar, slides for the top frame and top frame, fixed the short in the fog lamp, AND GOT THE REAR SEATS IN!! I left the right one alone, I had already screwed it in place. On the driver's side I drilled the holes for the posts on the bottom of the seat, put it in place, and guess what...It has enough tension from the friction of the screws against the holes I drilled to stay in place on its own - withiut the washers and nuts. Took it for a test drive, and no seat flying out over the back of the car , so that's how I left it for now. Ordered electric fuel pump, when I get it in I'll tighten the seat down, and that's that!!

Thanks to everybody

Larry

 

[GregW]

Way to go Larry, 'cept for that WORK on your birthday thing. :laugh: Here's a crazy thought for tightening down the seat. Use coupling nuts instead of regular nuts, should be easier to get a socket on 'em.