Preferred valve cover gasket

[Member 10617]

I'm looking for an update on the question of what kind of a valve cover gasket to use: cork or silicone (by J. M. Wagner Sales Ltd.). I know that the Wagner silicone gaskets are much more expensive than cork, but I've read that depending on how they are installed (goo on top or goo on bottom), cork gaskets may not last very long. What has been your experience? Have the silicone gaskets lived up to expectations?

 

[TR3driver]

I had good luck with the cork gaskets, "gluing" them to the rocker cover and then using Hylomar between the gasket & head. I'd have the cover off for one reason or another about once a year, and the cork would last through at least 5 or 6 times. Cheap and effective.

But Justin's gaskets are literally "lifetime", and require no sealer at all. I love mine.

The only quirk (which I understand he has reduced with the new ones) is that the silicone swells when it gets hot, which can make it tricky to R&R the gasket with the engine hot. The racers used to throw the gasket in their ice chest while working on the valve train.

And, since it isn't glued to the cover, it does take a little more care to ensure that it is in the right place before snugging down the nuts. I usually wind up pressing down on the cover with one hand, while I tuck the gasket in with the other.

 

[mallard]

I've had Wagners on my TR6 for six years. It comes off every year for a valve adjustment, no problems. The gasket comes with instructions, and a tube of High Temp Silicone Sealer.

 

[TomMull]

Ed,
I had pretty much the same experience with the cork gasket as Randall except that I did not put anything (perhaps grease) between the gasket and head. Still effective. When it did eventually start weeping, I made the mistake of over-tightening. This put slight dimples in the cover around the mounting studs and slightly distorted the seal lip. This, of course, diminished the effectiveness of the cork seal. In short, if you do use the cork seal make sure that your cover is straight.
I've not used the silicon gasket yet but my engine (now being rebuilt) will have one when it goes back in.
Tom

 

[Opa]

I am running a silicone gasket on my TR6 from www.gasketinnovations.com Been on for 3 years now no problems or leaks. Good price as well.15.00$ for tr6
I'm real pleased with Steve's product.also have a look at his tr on his site!

 

[Member 10617]

Thanks for all the positive responses to the silicon gasket. It sounds as if this is one of those products that really does what is claimed for them. When I change my next gasket, it will be a Wagner silicon gasket.

Many warm thanks!

 

[mrv8q]

Ed, I had pretty much the same experience with the cork gasket, with Hylomar, as Randall...

Me, too! To quote the great Johnny Bench, "No drips, no runs, no errors".

 

[Member 10617]

Randall: When you said that you "glued" your cork gasket into the rocker cover, what exactly did you mean? I'm guessing your didn't literally "glue" the gasket into the rocker cover. Did you anchor it with gasket sealant? Was that gasket sealant different from the Hylomar Blue Sealant you used between the gasket and the head?

 

[TR3driver]

If memory serves, last time I used a generous layer of Permatex #3 Aviation as "glue" between the gasket & rocker cover. Aligned the gasket carefully, then set it on a flat surface with only the weight of the cover while it dried. But your favorite silicone RTV should work just as well, provided you trim away any excess squeezed out of the joint.

My idea was to use something stronger than the Hylomar (which stays sticky rather than hardening like glue), so the gasket would remain always attached to the cover. That way there is no question of it slipping out of place (which was a common problem for me before I started glueing it to the cover).

 

[Member 10617]

Randall,

Many thanks. If I use a cork gasket, I will follow your advice. But then, if I use a silicone gasket (as you have done also), I'll need no "glue" or Hylomar.

 

[Geo Hahn]

FWIW, I use the cork with no gluing. Once the gasket has taken a 'set' (gets a depression in it from the cover) it wants to go back on w/o squirting out -- but you have to be careful the first time to get it all in place -- that is where I can see that the glue trick would help.

I use the same gasket year after year -- but always put it back on in the same orientation, i.e. same edge forward and up.

 

[TomMull]

I use the same gasket year after year -- but always put it back on in the same orientation, i.e. same edge forward and up.

That's the advantage of gasket adhesive (glue). The cover and the gasket come off and go back on as one unit, exactly the same every time.

Tom

 

[Don Elliott]

I have always used the Aviation #3 as Randall did. That's the way my 1958 TR3A came brand new. I applied it the same way as Randall. It stays glued into the curved flange of the valve cover for years of re-use. I have never used any sealant on the bottom side between the cork gasket and the milled top face of the head. It doen't leak and I would estimate I have used 4 cork gaskets in 53 years with 185,000 miles since 1958. Since 1990, I think I must have changed it once during 105,000 m iles.