MISC Q's: BT7 Tranny, Tighten Steering Wheel, Rattle in Front End

[Guest]

Three part question,

1. My 59 BT7 can (not always but frequently) be a nuisance to put into second or first gears either from third to second or neutral to first or second. It grinds horribly at times. I would love to have a smooth transmission in these gears. I have already added Redline MT90 oil.
What are my best options? Spare no ideas from costly to economical.

2. My steering wheel externally is a bit loose. How can I snug up the steering column. I can seem to removen the horn and blinker contraption without breaking it.

3. My car hugs the road well, but when every I traverse rough or slightly bumpy pavement it shakes and feels as though there is something loose. On a smooth road it will laterally hold its own with the best of them but something may be worn out up front. It is an original car with 25,000 miles. I am in a very small town otherwise I would have a mechanic answer this question for me. I wondered if this type of clatter/rattle/shake is common.

 

[Steve]

I'll offer my opinions here, no doubt there will be others from those more knowledgeable about Healeys than I, but I shall answer based on general LBC experience.

1. Synchromesh. First gear, I believe, did not have any, the trick at a standstill was to slip the car into second and then into first. It sounds rather as though synchro on second gear is bad. I assume that when you say that you are trying to go into first or second from neutral that you are stationary? From third or fourth into second,try double-declutching, and matching the revs on the downshift. Takes a little practice but if you can do this you will reduce graunching. I can elaborate further if you wish.

2.Your steering wheel should be splined onto the column, a similar arrangement to the wire wheels. If you remove the wheel boss and attached bits and pieces, you should see the way that the wheel is mounted onto the splines. There should be a large nut that holds the wheel in place. Check that this is not loose. Check also for wear either on the splines or on the part that fits over the splines. Snug the nut down but do not over-tighten! Should take the play out of the wheel.

3. The shake and rattle that you refer to is more than likely scuttle shake, a perfectly common occurence in convertibles, especially those with a seperate chassis. You will feel if the front end is loose, especially on bends that are smooth. If it all feels good there it probably is. Do not worry about scuttle shake, "They all do that sir". Even the old shape BMW convertibles had scuttle shake, brand new. SAABs didn't. My MGB is a 25,000 mile car too, and doesn't shake, but that is a monocoque body. My previous, 100,000 mile MGB, did shake! If you still have doubts, then try to find a club member locally who can ride with you and advise, but I think that problem #3 is typical and nothing to worry about.

Any other thoughts guys?

[ 10-01-2002: Message edited by: Steve ]</p>

 

[RF Thom]

Your trans problem could be one of two [2] problems. 1] The lay shaft bearings need replacement, or 2] the clutch driven disc is not sliding on the trans. imput shaft. This joint should be clean with NO lub etc. applied. If the clutch disc is not free to float when the clutch is opened then the disc will be in drag on either the flywheel or clutch pressure plate face in turn rotating the imput shaft and as first has no syncro will make it grind. When engaging 1st alway engage 2nd [ which has syncro and stops the imput shaft] then up into 1st. The detail relating to grinding going from 3rd down to second indicates the probable cause is the layshaft bearings.

Regards, Bob

 

[rcn491]

Regarding the steering wheel, if it is the adjustable type, it is tightened with the collar next to the wheel. The horn - directional unit is released by three set screws on the steering wheel.

 

[Guest]

Steve, Bob, and RCN491


Thanks a bunch for all of your comments. As a rookie, I need all the help I can get. Are there any tricks to removing The plastic assembly around the horn without damaging it? To me it feels like too much force is having to be used to get it off.

Will

 

[John Loftus]

Will,

You may not need to remove the trafficator (horn and turn signal assembly)to tighten the steering wheel. If it is the adjustable type there is an adjusting sleeve on the steering column behind the steering wheel. Looks like a plastic cylinder with ribs or grips molded in. It has internal threads so that when you loosen it you can adjust the steering wheel by pulling towards you or pushing it towards the dash. If it is not tightened down firmly the steering wheel will feel loose. Even if it is loose it will not pull off into your lap because there is a snap ring behind the trafficator (the bakelite turn signal/horn assembly).

As RCN491 also pointed out the Trafficator is held in place by 3 grub or set screws. These are headless screws, basically thread stock with slots cut in one end and pointed on the other. You need to look on the steering wheel central hub for the three holes spaced around the perimeter, the screws may be in deep inside that you just see holes but get a small screw driver and loosen the screws. Turn the wheel to find the other two. You can then pull gently on the trafficator assembly to remove it. You won't be able to pull it out entirely because there is a wiring harness going through the stator tube, out the steering box and connects to the turn signal and horn circuits. You probably don't want to completely remove it anyway. There is a sheet metal tab that comes forward towards the turn signal lever. That should be in the 12 o'clock position ... aligned it with the turn signal, then push the trafficator assem. in gently (bakelite can crack easily) and then tighten the grub screws completely. This will then hold the trafficator in place.

I have to disagree a bit with Steve on the scuttle shake diagnosis. Scuttle shake is something you feel at 55-65 mph on rough or smooth roads. The steering wheel starts shaking and the mirror gets all blurred. They say it is caused on the Healey by a lack of welds and supports near the trans tunnel opening in the firewall. If anything is out of balance on the car (wheels, drive shaft, rear brake drums, etc.)the out of balance harmonics will transfer through this weak area and cause the shakes. I recently put new hubs, bearing, wheels, and balanced tires on my BJ7 and eliminated the scuttle shake. Many people have eliminated their scuttle shake by tracking down the out of balance parts. What you describe sounds more like a loose shock or other worn parts in the steering or suspension. It would be best to get the car in the air and push/pull on the wheels and steering gear to see if things are tight or loose. Check the 4 mounting bolts on each front shock to make sure they are tight and not stripped out. Suspension wear tech article at: https://modena.intergate.ca/business/healeys/ah-tech.html


Hope this helps,
John

[ 10-02-2002: Message edited by: John Loftus ]</p>

 

[stever]

Hi! Concur with John's discussion of scuttle shake. I, too, had a similar situation to your description. I thought it was scuttle shake because it occured right at 55 mph, but it turned out to be wheel/tires. I solved it by replacing the wheels - got a set of the minilite mag reproduction wheels and new tires. The difference is amazing. However, now I have a very minor "wander" in the steering that I am going to track down - you might refer to the great help I have recieved in the thread "BJ-8 Steering" on this problem resolution. However, what I think you are describing is the shaking or flexing that occurs when you go over a rough spot such as a railroad crossing, pothole or something. I think what you are describing is when the convertible frame flexes a little and the doors and windscreen frames rattle a little from the flex. A convertible does not have the added structural integrity that a hard-topped vehicle has and will flex a little.At least mine has always done this.....Hope this helps. Steve

 

[Guest]

I have tried to adjust the steering wheel but to no avail. There doesn't appear to be an adjustable sleeve on the steering column.

If the different rings around the steering column
(heading away from the driver) are wide, narrow, narrow, wide, wide; the movement is between the third (narrow) and the fourth (wide).

I almost want to shim it but I am not convinced that would do it. Is there another way to tighten it without tearing up the trafficator.

MAny thanks

Will

 

[John Loftus]

Hi Will,

o.k. not an adjustable wheel. Is the steering wheel the original plastic type or made of wood and metal (aftermarket)?

-John

 

[Guest]

Thanks John,

The steering wheel is made of wood and metal,

I assume aftermarket


Will

 

[John Loftus]

Hi Will,

I don't have any experience with the aftermarket wheels but Steve's original advice is probably correct ... behind the trafficator there should be a nut to tighten or perhaps you have loose splines. Another thought is the aftermarket wheel was not set up properly ... spacers missing, etc.

Cheers,
John

 

[Guest]

AS for the transmission grinding in first and second and reverse, are synchro's available for replacement in the context of a rebuild?

Will