Master Cylinder Bleed Kit

[jerrybny]

I need to change my brake master cylinder and want to bench bleed it before I install it. Does anyone know where to get a kit that would have the correct fittings for a TR6 master cylinder. Thanks

 

[Banjo]

hmmmmm. not sure about a "kit". but if you get a couple of flare nuts, and bend a couple short pieces of line so they curve up into the reservoir, you're set.
Just take the master to your FLAPS and match up the fitting nuts.

 

[LastDeadLast]

Napa, I got a generic one about a year ago which had several fittings for any type of MC.

 

[dklawson]

My LBCs are old enough that I found a push-to-connect tube fitting re-threaded 3/8-24 (and covered with Teflon tape) would fit into the discharge port. A short length of poly tubing routed the fluid back to the reservoir.

Most home center plumbing departments carry these push-to-connect fittings now. Just make sure to wash the fitting and tubing with lots of soapy water when you're done since they use buna-n seals that aren't compatible with long term exposure to Dot-3/Dot-4 brake fluid.

 

[piman]

Hello all,

not really an answer to this post but for 40 odd years I've worked on my cars (all 60's and 70's British cars, I have never owned a 'modern' car), rebuilt several and I never have bench bled a master cylinder. I'd never even heard of it until I joined this forum?
I have used a pressure bleeder for some years now but prior to that it was an assistant pumping the pedal for me, I just assemble the system, fill with fluid and bleed.

Alec

 

[Guest]

I concur with Alec, just install and bleed. Why run the risk of dripping brake fluid all over your nice, shiney paint. A new master cylinder really doesn't need to be "bench bled". Interestingly, new master cylinders by the original manufacturer were not available for a short while a few years ago. Lockheed? Girling? Anyway, they seem to be back on the market, and thank goodness. I am impressed that such important items as brake masters, clutch slaves and the likes are still available for our little cars. Can you imagine us having to rely on aftermarket items in these areas. Besides loosing the originality, how about the quality?! for such critical parts.

That said, now someone will tell me that these are repos and I am just whistling past the graveyard.


Without Bogarting this thread, I replaced my entire braking system several years ago and am glad I did. It is much more important to stop than to go.



Bill

 

[John Kuzman]

I am a believer of bench bleeding the master cylinders, whether it be brake or clutch. It just seems to make sense to get that volume of air out of the system beforehand. All I do is screw in a brake bleeder screw into the MC port, attach a piece of soft plastic hose to the bleed screw with the other end submerged into the fluid in the reservoir, loosen the bleed screw as if I am bleeding a wheel cylinder and pump the MC until all air is out. On the last stroke, tighten the bleed screw.
To eliminate the ever feared fluid on paint during installation, I put a piece of plastic between the reservoir cap and the reservoir opening. Tighten the cap. Then when you remove the bleeder screws to attach your lines, very little, if any fluid leaks out.
It works for me.

 

[dklawson]

A bleed screw is an excellent suggestion and much easier to deal with than the fittings I suggested earlier.

I had never heard of bench bleeding the master cylinders until I got the Mini. I'd never done this with the MGs and Triumphs I'd worked on previously. It made things a little easier on the Mini but I doubt it was necessary... I didn't have to do it on the other LBCs.

 

[jerrybny]

I wonder what bleeder screw I should use. The front and rear bleeder screws are differrent part numbers in the moss catalog. I guess I could get 2 of each the next time I order something from Moss. I guess one of the two types should fit. Plus I would have them in case I ever need them.