Installing New Front Wheel Cylinders

[hundredsixinsf]

I need to install some new front wheel cylinders in my 100-6. Never done this on a big Healey. Do I need to remove the center hubs, in order to remove all the brake hardware and wheel cylinders? Or can I replace the brake springs and wheel cylinders without removing the splined hubs?

If I need to remove the hubs, how are they removed. My service manual says a special tool or hub puller is needed. Don't have one of those.

Thanks,
Steve

 

[Randy_Gay]

I don't think you have to take the hubs off to get to the shoes and cylinder

 

[John Loftus]

Hi Steve,

A quick look at the manual shows that you can get the brake drums off without removing the hubs. But if you do decide to remove the hubs .. here's the scoop. Once the grease cup is removed (if you don't have this tool in your kit, check out the following link to make one),

grease cup extractor


Then, remove the cotter pin and hub securing nut and washer and then give the spline hub a yank (putting the knockoff back on will give you something to pull on). Chances are it will come off with a little persuation. If it is stuck I heard a good tip recently. Find two sockets that will slip together, that fit within the hub and stick out about 3/4" (a 13/16" socket inside a 1-1/8" deep impact socket were said to work). Then screw on the knockoff and continue to tap on it to force the hub out. Slick, eh?

Cheers,
John

 

[hundredsixinsf]

Thanks much John! Sounds like I won't need to remove the hubs to replace the wheel cylinders, but I should probably repack/replace the wheel bearings anyway. No tools came with my 100-6, so I'll have to make the grease cap extractor tool.

Steve

 

[John Loftus]

Steve,

No problem. Despite the risk of shipwright's disease you are prudent to look at the bearings and carefully inspect the splines on the hub and wheels. You might also want to search the Healey forum for the Porterfield brake shoes that Dave Russell swears by. And as an option for replacing wheel cylinders you may opt to have them resleeved. I used Sierra Specialty Auto https://www.brakecylinder.com/ for all my cylinders but I've also heard good things about White Post on the east coast.

Let us know how it goes.

 

[Keoke]

Hi Steve, I did not have to make anything when I did mine years ago. All the parts can be obtain at a local hardware store. Instead of using the threaded rod just buy a hex headed bolt about 3" long. Two nuts to fit the bolt, the coupler bolt[ 5/16 X 24 Standoff] and two large fender washers. Assemble one nut on to the bolt add the washers and then the second nut. Fit the coupler on the end of the bolt and lock in place with the nut directly above it. It is now ready to use. An additional benefit here is if the grease cap stud is buggered up you have that hex head for a wrench to persuade it to behave.--Fwiw--Keoke

P.S. 7777's is not authorised to read this post.- /bcforum/images/%%GRAEMLIN_URL%%/grin.gif

 

[Johnny]

Hello Steve, just a quick "tip" on installing the spring clips, the one's that hold the wheel cylinder on. This can be difficult, especially if you replace the gasket. The wheel cylinder should be able to slide back and forth if all is installed properly. These clips sometimes break when removed. Might consider replacing them. Getting back to installing them: First stick the wheel cylinder in the hole with the gasket mounted, now install one clip first then insert the emergency brake lever into the wheel cylinder by prying up on the wheel cylinder. Now you can install the second spring clip, check for movement when completed. Don't be tempted to try and bend or reshape the spring clips, they will break. A slight hammer blow to the end of the spring clip may be needed to urge it in the slot and mate with the first clip. Hope this makes some sense. I think once you get started on the project it'll all be clearer.
WHEW! /bcforum/images/%%GRAEMLIN_URL%%/tired.gif

 

[hundredsixinsf]

Thanks for all the advice guys. I'll let you know how it goes.

Steve

 

[hundredsixinsf]

Finally getting to those front wheel cylinders. I've got two new pairs for the front wheels and new brake hoses and other parts. So I've removed the wheels and see four nuts securing the drums to the hubs. But how do I remove them without spinning the wheels? Ah, do I need tow wrenches? One to secure the bolt head that perhaps is at the backing plate and one to loosen the nut? What size are the nuts?

Thanks,
Steve

 

[Dave Russell]

Hello Steve, just a quick "tip" on installing the spring clips, the one's that hold the wheel cylinder on.

Hi Johnny,
I think you are talking about the rear cylinders, good advice. Steve is talking about the "front" cylinders.
D
Steve,
The nuts are some standard US size, don't remember which. I always us an impact wrench to remove the nuts. I have an old B&D "Bulldawg" electric impact wrench that really works if you don't have air. Otherwise just hold the hub anyway you can.
D

 

[hundredsixinsf]

Thanks Dave. Geez...so there's no bolt heads that at the back of the backing plates? Are the bolts welded to the backing plate?

 

[Dave Russell]

We have changed subjects? Originally you asked about the drum retaining bolts - I thought.

The wheel cylinders are retained by studs through the backing plates.

See the two pics attached.
D

 

[BN1L_156424]

My 100-4 has BSF nuts holding on the brake drum to the studs in the hub, but it's early'ish.

You should be able to give a quick jerk with a breaker bar to loosen each of them if you don't have an impact wrench. If you can't get enough on that jerk, have someone put their foot on the brakes, or maybe you can adjust the adjusters to keep the drum from spinning.


BTW where are you in SF?
-j