I need an education on wheel measurements...

[boeingpilot]

I'm planning on replacing my wire wheels on my TR4A with Minilite/Panasport/Superlite style wheels, but am a little confused at what size I need. Moss Motors sells wheels with measurements of 15" X 5 1/2 " and a +6mm offset. The minilite website lists 15" X 51/2" for TR2/3/4/6 but also list 15" X 7" sizes for TR 5/250 and TR6. I'm considering these:

https://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/..._trkparms=algo=LVI&its=I&otn=2&category=43955


I have the Moss Motors tube shock conversion installed. I guess my question is will these wheels (15" X 7" +4 offset) fit my car with the tube shock conversion? Sorry for the rambling lead in, but...

Thanx for the help/patience.

 

[Brosky]

Where's Frank? He's answered this before.

 

[trfourtune]

I have done a lot of searching on wheel sizes in general for my tr4 and my conclusion is that 15x7 is too big. 15x6 in front and 15x6.5 in back is max for unmodified fenders on a tr4-4a-5-250(although i can not prove that). 15x7 will fit a tr6 only, not a 250. 205 series tires max on a 4. I am going with 15x6 all around on my tr4. I hope i can still get watanabe street magnesium wheels when i have the cash (lots of cash required).
+6 offset seems to be the usual offset required for triumphs. the watanabe's are +13 but can be special ordered with less (apparently according to the US distributor i talked/e-mailed this year).good luck
Rob

 

[boeingpilot]

Thanx, Rob, I arrived at the same conclusion. After some research I think I'll pry the wallet open, blow out the spider webs and pony up for 15 X 5.5 Panasports.

 

[KVH]

I've been talked out of that twice. Each time, folks telling me nothing looks better than wires. I'm still mulling it over. I'm insecure enough to seek universal acclaim and approval.


I've also heard assertions that anything wider than the stock wheel adds too much stress to the axle on fast cornering. Not sure about that, but what is the standard width? 4.5? 5?

 

[TR3driver]

but what is the standard width? 4.5? 5?

Stock on a 4A would be 4.5" I believe, same as steel wheels for a TR3A.

But I've covered well over 100,000 miles with 5.5" TR6 wheels on my TR3A, including wide, sticky tires (which also have a big effect on axle forces) and no problems.

Still, if it worries you, there are uprated front axles and spacers available from TRF.

 

[KVH]

there are uprated front axles and spacers available from TRF.

Are the axles actually longer, or just stronger? And, I assume the spacers are to allow interchanging back to the narrower wire wheel while using the same studs?

Along that line, how do you remove the old studs and put longer ones in? Mine are the short ones for wire wheels. Is there a special press tool of some sort? I assume you have to remove the hub to make room for the stud to be re-inserted?

 

[TR3driver]

The axles from TRF are stronger, not longer. They were developed by vintage racers (primarily uncle jack as I recall) to handle racing conditions. The spacers are a further reinforcement of the stub axle, they go inside the hub between the bearing races and greatly reduce flex by transmitting much of the bending force back to the vertical link. They effectively make the diameter of the stub axle much larger.

The spacers are a bit of a pain to fit, you have to use shims to set the bearing clearance (the original castellated nut now clamps the bearing cone firmly to the spacer) but I've heard they help a lot with spindle flex. (The reason for the inclusion of the residual pressure valve in the brakes was because the spindles flex enough to push the front brake pads back during hard driving. With the spacers, you can disable the RPV and still not have the pads push back.)

There are spacers available to allow the use of wire wheels without the shorter studs, but AFAIK TRF does not offer them. Don't think he's on BCF, but one source is Frank Fisher in CA. His email is FGFO1 at aol dot com. I think Joe Alexander (ARE) has them too.

I've always just beat the front studs out with a BFH, just a few determined blows will do it. Of course you'll want to remove the hub from the car (so you aren't beating on the bearings) and I'm pretty sure the brake rotor has to come off as well. At least the longer ones won't go back in with the rotor in the way. Be sure to line the splines up, then the new ones can be pulled into place using a couple of flat washers and a disc wheel nut installed backwards (or a 7/16 NF nut from the hardware store).

This of course applies only to the front wheel studs. The rear studs on solid-axle TRs are threaded into the hub and peened over from the back. They sound like a royal PITA to replace, but fortunately I haven't had to replace them yet. Much easier on the IRS TRs (where they basically R&R just like the front wheel studs).

 

[trfourtune]

The main reason that there have been axle breaks (rear only) is due to racing tires, NOT street tires. I do not know about the latest DOT street/race tires though.
Rob